Thats a very cool weapon

Okay, got the thrusters sorted out. Calf thrusters are painted, and the best looking job of
the bunch. I sprayed them all with tamiya smoke on the outside, and it's a pretty good look.
 I modified the calf thruster mounts as the new mechaskunk thrusters are a few mm too
long. This was easy because there was a panel line at just the right spot, and I could saw
right through with my xacto razor saw blade.

Thrusters: DONE!



Fuel tanks: DONE except for decals and black



Weapons: DONE except for decals and clearcoat



I swear the next thing I do will be the red armor. I'm still trying to decide whether to go with
clear red or guards red. I've got to make sure my preshading work shows through, but isn't
too obvious. augh.

psstoff995 wrote:

Never done a Gundam model, wanted to, just never have. I'd say though, start layering on the clear red, maybe after a few coats if it's still too clear, layer on the guards, which I'm assuming isn't translucent. I think that way would be easier to correct as opposed to starting out with the solid color then changing your mind for the clear? Don’t know if that made sense...

Yeah, and I'm leaning this direction.

Not the least reason being that the tamiya paints are just so blasted easy to use and airbrush so well. the modelmaster paint keeps clogging my airbrush tip.

Got my primary painting done today.

First, I shot it with just thinned Tamiya Clear Red.



That just wasn't covering my rather heavy-handed undershading. So I added most of a bottle of MM Guards Red.



There we go!



I'm gonna need to temporarily re-assemble the head again to get the faceplate alignment right. A couple of tube beads are going into the gun ports up here, I've already got them widened.



Primary painting: Done! I'm gonna let this cure so I can hit it with some Future tomorrow, and then dry transfers! Aiiee.

BMF?  Whats that, looks like tin foil to me

BMF - Bare Metal Foil - a modelers self adhesive super thin metal foil - comes in aluminum, bare metal, gold, black, etc...

smeagol the vile wrote:

These kits arent like the kits of old, the Joints are so well reinforced, many of the master grade kits actuially have screws for the shoulders and elbows.  I did the master grade Zaku II, every joint had atleast two metal screws to hold it.

 

The latest generation seems to have gone to ABS plastic for the inner frame, which has some natural give and can are basically really tight polycaps on their own without wearing down like the old styrene-on-styrene joints. (I'm looking square at you, Gouf Custom)

So the masking experiment was a total failure. Not only did it produce results worse than if I had just hand-painted, but the old BMF left behind residue, and the painters-tape I used on the shield pulled up the paint. I'm never going to combine masking and unprimed painting again. I'm pretty sure I'll have to re-do the red shield completely, the black parts might be salvagable if I can clean the adhesive residue off without marring up the paint too bad.

 

I dont know which I like better, waterslide or dry transfer... Dry transfer go on SO clean and look real, no edges no nothing, but waterslide are so easy to put on.

About half-way done with decals now, and damn.

Forget about using the white line dry-transfer decals. Just forget it. They'll partially attach while you're positioning them or the piece will just be too sharply curved or something, but you'll be lucky to get half of them down. Just get the waterslides.

Other than the white lines though it's fairly successful.

up next:
Finish Decals
Hand Paint Gold
Hand Paint Details
Gloss Coat All Again
Blacklining
Dull Coat Red Parts
DONE

I hope to be finished before July. >_>

Tomorrow I get the stand and waterslide decals.

HAHAHAHAHA OMG HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

you soaked stickers in water, Thats so ****ing funny.  Oh my god I almost fell out of my chair im laughing so hard.

 

Bandai kits in general come with 2 things

A - stickers

B - Dry transfers

 

also, your insaine for doing that many decals.