Citadelgrad87 wrote:

Kitchen drywall flunky at your service! My advice:  Jump in!  Grab some paper and practice getting a pattern, crank down the pressure and get really close, then go for it.  Really, based on your abilities I see on the other aspects of your builds, you CAN do this.

Hi Drywall Flunky!

How is that going BTW?  Alright if Bill agrees to do a figure with his #100 I will freehand the camo pattern on this one!  How is that Mr. Plunk I will stretch myself if you will!

Citadelgrad87 wrote:

Schnobs wrote:  Citadelgrad87 wrote: Kitchen drywall flunky at your service! My advice:  Jump in!  Grab some paper and practice getting a pattern, crank down the pressure and get really close, then go for it.  Really, based on your abilities I see on the other aspects of your builds, you CAN do this.   Hi Drywall Flunky! How is that going BTW?  Alright if Bill agrees to do a figure with his #100 I will freehand the camo pattern on this one!  How is that Mr. Plunk I will stretch myself if you will! If my drywall seams come out half as good as those on this vehicle, I will be happy.  Although the wife is not too keen on the "HOTCHKISS" nameplate on the kitchen ceiling!

Drywall seams are definately their own skillset.  I had to redo quite a few of them as a kid to get my Dad to approve them.  My Dad was in construction and in North Dakota if you want to spend time with your German Dad you go to work with him.  I was framing houses at 5 with a block and tackle system my dad made for me to hold up my end!

Bodge wrote:

Ive seen hard edge 38h ,s in some books in Normandy thats why i done mine like that although they were not this variant so if you want hard edge then go for it although i do think it would be field applied by the crew.

Thanks for the info Andy!  Did you check out the link for the Bronco kit?  I shudder at the thought of putting indy links on this one.

Oh BTW how in H.E. Double Hockey Sticks would crew field apply a hard edge paint scheme?  A template of some sort I would assume.

Citadelgrad87 wrote:

Schnobs wrote:  Bodge wrote: Ive seen hard edge 38h ,s in some books in Normandy thats why i done mine like that although they were not this variant so if you want hard edge then go for it although i do think it would be field applied by the crew. Thanks for the info Andy!  Did you check out the link for the Bronco kit?  I shudder at the thought of putting indy links on this one. Oh BTW how in H.E. Double Hockey Sticks would crew field apply a hard edge paint scheme?  A template of some sort I would assume. Couldn't they just brush it on?

I think I might go back to weight lifting as a Hobby and blowing stuff up on the Xbox!  Not on your life!  LET'S DO THIS!!!

Thanks Mike for the mini soft-edge tutorial.  I practiced and tried it out tonight.  I want to also make sure that everyone knows that I appreciate all comments on my work and I like both the historical accuracy and the artistic expression that is so much a part of this experience and community.

I hope that you know I was only teasing you Mr. Bill.  I respect both you and your work very much! 

That being said let's pull the curtain back on my first kind of soft edge Tritone cammo!

Build Update:

38H Assembly Time: 12 Hours

Painting and Weathering Time: 7 Hours

Aggregate Build Time:  19 Hours

I tried out the soft edge method Mike suggested and I had mixed results because it is hot in the garage tonight and I had to keep putting the entire model int he freezer every 10 minutes or so so the SP would not run.  I have a few spots to fix and feather but overall I like how it turned out and what was in my mind.  On Andy's WIP someone mentioned it looking like a tracked Humvee.  OOOOHHRAAWW!!

Bodge wrote:

The crew could do hard edge paint sceme quite simply with a brush of course Lookin good mate , ive yet to try the blue tack technique as i allways freehand my hard edge.

Thanks Andy, but I could not leave well enough alone. I thought to myself why am I afraid of doing this freehand I paint small detailed parts with my AB all the time?  I guess I had a mental block or something so using the scheme that I had already masked and painted I repainted the whole thing free hand.  There are a few imperfections in it as compared to the SP method but it actually enhances the realism.  Let me know what you think.

Build Update:

38H Assembly Time: 12 Hours

Painting and Weathering Time: 9 Hours

Aggregate Build Time:  21 Hours

Schnobs,

      Nice camo, both the SP method and free hand looked nice. Must say though the free hand seems more realistic. Have not used SP  before, how is the clean up and how many uses can you get from it?

-Stephen

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Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

NucMedTech wrote:

Schnobs,       Nice camo, both the SP method and free hand looked nice. Must say though the free hand seems more realistic. Have not used SP  before, how is the clean up and how many uses can you get from it? -Stephen

Thanks Stephen and in person the difference between the two methods is very obvious. I set the entire model in the freezer for about 5-10 minutes between each coat and if you peel it right off while it is still cold it comes off easy.  If anything sticks just use another peiece of SP on the stuck piece and it will come right up.  Cold tends to make it more manageable.  I plan to keep this batch because it seemed more useable than my last build.  I will let you know how long it lasts.

stick man wrote:

Looks good!  I do all my camo free hand because the idea of puting the stiky silly putty all over my build scares me LOL.

Thanks Orion I will get better.  Actually Karl's SP tutorial was pretty helpful and removed any anxiety about the process.

http://cs.finescale.com/forums/855159/ShowPost.aspx

wbill76 wrote:

Looks good Edmund! Doing camo free-hand sounds scary at first but isn't all that bad. And no worries about the teasing for the figures (won't happen)! Depending on how you feel about the overspray onto the non-DY patches, you can fine-tune that a little bit or incorporate that into the weathering, whichever works for you.

For the record I was not scared just extremely concerned!

I did touch up the DY overspray since the last pics.  Great to hear you were not offended due to the fact that email and text is often the poorest form of communciation

Q for you Sir.  Am I in the ballpark for close detail work with A Badger 100LG with a medium tip running at 10 PSI for free hand cammo?  I normally spray at 18-20 PSI.