Automotive body putties like Acryl Blue and Acryl Red can be thinned with isopropyl alcohol (90%) to the consistency of thick paint. Lesser amounts of thinner can be used to extend working time, but they will still skin over. When that happens, an old brush dipped in alcohol will allow the surface to be shaped again.
There is also another product out there (got the name buried here, somewhere… ) that's apparently a water-soluble material with a long working time… I think the name was something like Aves .
You can mix the Squadron putty with a bit of nail polish remover (acetone) to make it softer and more workable. That's what I do. Then, when I've got some putty on a seam, I also use the nail polish remover to wipe away all but what I need to fill the seam.
Regards,
Triarius wrote:If you use Drew's technique, use nail polish remover, not straight acetone. Acetone is very aggressive to styrene. Most nail polish removers contain diluents and other chemicals that reduce its tendency to attack styrene.
Amen! I should have made that clearer. Make sure that the nail polish remover you get contains acetone, though. My understanding is that some don't.
I can't take credit for this technique, of course. Others have written about it before me.
Just don't go and buy your nail varnish remover and nail sanding sticks from the same store - it's too embarrassing.
bcamp1973 wrote:I've been using Squadron green putty on my models and i'm finding it dries a bit to quckly for my taste. what options are out there for a slower drying, more workable putty?
I have been using 3M Automotive Putties for years for both real 1:1 car repair and my modeling.
I prefer working with Super Red Putty #05972
But Acyyl-Blue Glazing Putty #05964 isn't bad either.
One of the nice things, a tube is cheap and will last for years if stored properly.
paul_toz wrote:Just don't go and buy your nail varnish remover and nail sanding sticks from the same store - it's too embarrassing.
Oh stop Paul... it's just to fun!
You should see the looks I get when I have all my cosmetic supplies in hand and start asking my daughter or son - "Does this shade of nail polish look good?"
We know it's to paint my car model, but the workers...
So far Ross I haven't had any problems other than it hardening a bit in the neck of the tube, but that comes out rather easily.
I store mine inside, keep it from freezing and it should be ok. I think if you store it along with your paints there shouldn't be a problem. And we all know your paints should be stored under the same conditions as one would feel comfortable. Not too cold and not too hot LOL.
Just don't store it in the bathroom with your toothpaste. Trust me... It doesn't taste so good, especially first thing in the morning.
More than twenty years old!
Actually Ross I've never had a tube last more than a 2 or 3 years as I use it for body work also.
The Super Red I use seems to have less of a seperation issue for some reason compared to the others.
While working with the putties in the shops we learned to "mush" the tubes for awhile. That would help re-mix the contents plus warm it up a bit. They seemed to work alright after re-mixing, but then again they weren't very old.
WOW I can't believe it, more than 20 years. I'd say you got your moneys worth out of that tube.
Lufbery wrote:You can mix the Squadron putty with a bit of nail polish remover (acetone) to make it softer and more workable.
You can mix the Squadron putty with a bit of nail polish remover (acetone) to make it softer and more workable.
Triarius wrote:There is also another product out there (got the name buried here, somewhere… ) that's apparently a water-soluble material with a long working time… I think the name was something like Aves .
Probably Apoxie Sculpt from Aves Studio. http://www.avesstudio.com