Natural Metal Finish Mastery.

welcome aboard

/Welcome to the Forum!

Alclad primer only? Really? Thats not what it says on their site,

You make no sense

"You make no sense"

so my wife keeps telling me 

You don't have to use alclad primer for NMF. It is good stuff, however Tamiya primer, Mr surface 1200, 1500 etc. is fine. I even know people who use MM gloss black. Yes, laquer 'can' eat into enamel, but at volumes equal to a heavy coating of thinner. Misting, or light coats built up with alclad is not going to affect an enamel primer coat.

I have used Alclad pollished allu and airframe allu over Tamiya gloss black enamel with really good results. I found Alclad's gloss black primer not to work well (for me) atall.

Theuns

Totaly agree, i use humbrol blsck gloss ensmel for the high shin finishes and anything i fancy for the others. The slclad gloss black never seemed to go off properly,  went down rough,  and didnt polish up too well either. Their grey primer is very good though.

Hey TL, do you still need to polish the grey alclad primer for "allu" or does it go on smooth enough?

Theuns

Silver

Remember not to prime the plastic with any enamel paint primer or acrylic primer when adding the alclad gloss primer.The alclad Metalizer will eat through to the surface of the plastic and destroy your enamel or acrylic prep.The alclad primer will not stop the Metalizer from eating away.Alclad primer only.

i polish up the grey primer too. you really need a nice flat surface or it just looks like any old acrylic silver. if you are doing a rough cast surface like a car engine then i use mr metal color instead or just tamiya and an oil wash, unless i am after a particular shade, and alclads do lovely stuff.

Correct talentless. The undercoat has to be smooth as glass, no orange peel or roughness and very glossy otherwise the Alclad high shine finish won't look right. When I did my Seafury, I hit a couple of panels with 2400 pads just for panel finish variation and they came out a little dulled as predicted. So for the oxidized look then it doesn't have to be so smooth. I've been reading that a lot of model car modelers remove the chrome off their manufactured chromed parts and shoot gloss black then Alclad Chrome for a realistic finish like for bumpers and bezels.

I've heard wonderful things about SNJ but unfortunately, Matt Swan is not producing the product. I wish I had ordered that SNJ buffing powder and paint. Floquil Old Silver and Platinum Mist are also pretty good finishes and again, they have been discontinued. It seems that most of the excellent products with great track records are being dropped.