Sculpting rough seas

Additionally, if you need more info just Google/Search his name for Youtube & sites for finished works. He is also a professional artist & from my hometown:-) Cheers.

OldSalty

  We also have our very own water effects guru on the forums. Modelcrazy is his handle and he does some amazing work.                                     gk

OldSalty--thanks for the info.  I will look into this further!

Knox, thanks I will have to see if I can find his work.

Yeah ;

    I liked it too . There is always room for a new way with new products or old ones used a different way . Now we do have a few that do it well . Modelcrazy are you listening ? But we can always use a different technique or material use segment . Thanks To Chris .And thanks to FSM for a good article presentation .

 This issue goes in the Technical Advice group .    Tanker - Builder

Hi;

 I've looked to check if I posted this somewhere else .Maybe I missed it but I don't think so .Chris Flodberg's article was great .Now in the real world I must comment .Did you know for instance a Gearing Fram destroyer at speed puts out an almost 25 foot high roostertail .Many Cruisers used to as well .

     I can remember guys putting their denim uniforms (shirts and pants ) on a line, tying it tight . Then tying it to the stern chock or the base of a stanchion, throw it over into the wake .Great wash machine .Except when we kicked the ship in the tail and rang for flank speed .

    It was comical to see guys trying to get new work clothes when theirs went bye-bye in slashed threads of fabric.They had to explain why they threw their clothes over the fantail, when that was against Captains orders .

    Usually they got their clothes, IF the storekeeper had their sizes in stock,, and then ten or twenty days of extra duty . Extra Duty - always in a department where you normally didn't work .

   Anyway , The wakes and flow along the sides was in many instances ,  more violent even in a slightly smoother sea . I commend Chris and I know this is nit-picking but I had to mention it .        Tanker - Builder     P.S. If I did post this somewhere else ,you may ignore this .

As for MC's work, just do a search for his Indianapolis and U-boat builds.  Both are just beauties.  His Rufe on the shoreline is very nice as well.

The only nit I have fron Chris's article is that they didn't go into what types of foam for the bases works out the best.  Other than that, I'm going to go after his method on the sub GB coming up.

Hey TB, that is some interesting information. Thanks for sharing that!

Goldhammer, I wish that I had the time right now because that GB sounds like one that I would enjoy. I have the same thoughts of trying this with a sub. Be sure to let me know when yours is done. I would love to see it.

Hi ;

 Well , all you modelers .If you really paid close attention ,Chris used the one inch pink foam sheet .Personally I use the Blue .Why ? Well I got turned on to the blue by local railroad modelers and believe me this stuff IS easy to work with !

     Both create a lot of foam dust when using that cone brush he showed ! So, Use breathing and eye protection .Because it is foam I recommend the white plastic hazard suits too .You can get them cheaply at any home - improvement store .

      But when you get done using his, or your own method, you'll be very pleased with the results.If you mount the finished foam on a piece of wood carved with a router on the edges, you can ,if you keep the sizeof the foam an inch smaller all around , Leave space for the groove a cover would fit in or finish the edge right up to the water with wood trim of your choice !

 This is a fantastic way to display your hard work , believe me .  Builder of Tankers

I got a piece of the green floral sheet from HL to try.  We will see how it does.  Was planning on doing a wood base of 1/2" ply under it and an oak edging with a rabbet for a plexi top.

OOh !

    Be careful there ! That green stuff breaks down into finer dust .Please , wear the better type of mask and cover gear ? Then , show us what you did.  T.B.

goldhammer

I got a piece of the green floral sheet from HL to try.  We will see how it does.  Was planning on doing a wood base of 1/2" ply under it and an oak edging with a rabbet for a plexi top.

 

Just saw this thread.

GH, I am using the green stuff as an experiment for the Eugen build. The water is calm so other that the hole for the hull there's not a lot of carving, but TB is correct, it comes apart very easily. When I laid my first coat of gel I covered the entire base with it to keep down the dust. Easy stuff to work with and form, but I won't use it again. I also looked into the blue foam, but the local hardware store wants $25 for a 4x8 sheet. This is reasonable considering how many builds one could get with that large of a board, I just don’t' have the storage space or $25 at the time, so I went to HL and got the good old standby, a 1"x1'x3' Styrofoam piece with a %40 coupon.

Here is a pic of the Eugen’s base. I've done more work to it since and that is not the final color. You can see where I sealed up the foam as much as possible, with the exception of the hull area.

TB, thank you for considering me the resident gooroo on water builds. Frankly I try to follow Chris' method with some differences to fit my style. Chris and Kostas are the real pioneers in the water making arena. I hope to get to their level at some point, but have many more builds to do to get there. I'm working on 3 at the moment and Have 3 or 4 more bouncing around in my head so at this speed it shouldn’t take long.

Bakster, if you are interested here are links to my past and current water builds.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/163435.aspx?page=1

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/169197.aspx

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/169295.aspx

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/165841.aspx

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/169845.aspx

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/170521.aspx

Steve

I experimented with the green and tossed it out and will stay with the 2 x 4 foot piece of the bigger bead stuff from Home Depot for now.    Contact cement melts the green stuff fairly well.  Need to have a piece 16-18 by 32-36 for the sub GB.  So I might get 2 pieces of the HL white stuff with a couple of coupons and use white glue to stick it together.  Got dust masks and respirators here at the body shop, so I know all about that kind of evil stuff and can deal with it. 

goldhammer

Need to have a piece 16-18 by 32-36 for the sub GB. 

Yeah, those Gato's take up a lot of real estate.

MC, thanks for the links. That is awesome work. What an excellent way to take a model and add another dimension of realism to it. I will surely try this...someday.

modelcrazy

 

goldhammer

Need to have a piece 16-18 by 32-36 for the sub GB. 

 

 

Yeah, those Gato's take up a lot of real estate.

 

And even with the coupons, I'm going to swell the profits at HL with the gel I will need...lol

That stuff is not cheap, and man, I go through tons of it.

Darned ;

    I wish I did still have a photo of a build I did years ago .Do you remember the REVELL C.G. cutter Hamilton ? Picture her In a sea that has the bow free of the waves , stern slightly inundated and down below in the wave trough a life raft .

    Very tiny figures at certain places on deck ready to do their duties . The ship listing 22 degrees with a climb angle on the wave of about 45 degrees . Spume everywhere .

 Name of finished Dio ." Angels On Call " Built in 1980 for the  Central Arkansas Modelers Society show at Jacks Hobby shop in Jacksonville ,Ark .Shop.

  Best in Class .Who Me ? First and only extremely rough sea dio I have ever done . T.B.

      Now that said  ,I have even used textured glass painted on the bottom for depth and around the ship on top, for slow maneuvering . It's all fun .

Hi;

    The biggest problem I see is an old one .Florists foam over time, unless coated , which you have done , Crumbles into powder .     T.B.