decal adhesives

What brand of decals? Off the top of my head, I might suggest Future to get them to lay down.

Use a setting solution, such as Microset.

Microset will get them to lay down, but if the decal adhesive is bad or gone, it will not hold the decals down after it dries. It has no adhesive properties, while Future does.

I wonder if perhaps you soaked them in water too long? They will lose their adhesive properties if that happens.

I remember decades ago as a kid decided I would decal as a mass-production thing, soaked a bunch at a time. That didn't work out very well. :)

My guess is meant as an addition to what Tom and Stik recommended above.

Dittos on the Future, or you can run some diluted Elmer's white glue under there, too(if that's more immediately available).

The only decal setter/solvent that I am aware of that has adhesive in it is Gunze's Mr Mark Setter. It's quite tenacious and really pulls them down.

I use both Micro Set and Micro Sol when decalling. Not sure if Micro Sol would made a difference with decals curling up.

I use Micro Set on the model surface when applying the decals, then wait a few minutes to let them set, and then apply Micro Sol on the top.  This has always worked well, except you don't have much time to reposition the decals after applying them over Micro Set.  Alternatively, you can also apply the decals over water, wait for them to set, and then apply Micro Sol over them when they are dry.

THANKS for the suggestions...I used Micro Sol and Micro Set for a few years, (2008-2012) but I admit I tried making my own with vinegar and water. I added Vinegar to water until the smell was as close as I felt I could make it, with both of them, and other decals have worked fine with these. I tried this from a suggestion from this forum.

I have experienced MANY different decals and their characteristics and I know some are very finicky, almost impossible to keep from total disintegration. These I used yesterday were Eagle Strike. I also wonder about the soaking time and I can't say if I waited too long or not...again, very tricky to me.

I like the Future suggestion. I'll try that. Can anyone say if I should use an overcoat of Dull coat to help hide the, uh, whatever its called between letters or areas where you can't trim to extreme closeness, anyway, I'll try the Future this evening and see.

THANKS AGAIN, EVERYONE!!!

Tip: Don't leave the decals soaking in the water. Dip, then remove, remove excess water (touch the corner to a paper towel) and leave it on a hard surface for about 30 seconds. Test to see if it slides easily on the backing. If not, put it down for another 10 secs and try again. 

If you're worried about decals disintegrating, you can cover them with something like MicroScale's Liquid Decal Film. Paint it over the decal (you can brush it on, it will level without leaving brush marks), let it dry, trim the decals close to the edge, then dip and apply as normal. It's water based, so the brushes wash out in water.

be aware that some decals, especially older ones, can react horribly to some brands of decal solutions. try it on one you wont use first (bitter voice of experience speaking). i also tried putting liquid decal film on a still wet decal on the model (i thought it was micro set, almost identical bottle) and it did not go well at all. it works perfectly on dry decals still on their backing though.

Phil_H

The only decal setter/solvent that I am aware of that has adhesive in it is Gunze's Mr Mark Setter. It's quite tenacious and really pulls them down.

I love Mr. Mark Setter. It's a solvent that literally melts the decals onto the surface.

 It's great stuff, but treat it with respect. Never touch a decal once you've applied this stuff to it. Treat it like you just painted that marking on.  (yes, I've learned this the hard way and basically smeared a decal when I tried to blot it)

Thank you all so much for these suggestions! I have decided to order and try Gunze Mr. Mark Setter to future decal attempts. I used Future with great results last night and I'll always remember that remedy. I ALSO LIKE THE SUGGESTION THAT DECALS SHOULD SET ON A PAPER TOWEL UNTIL MOVEABLE. That sounds like what went wrong with my attempts in this discussion. I'll always remember this as well.

T H A N K S  A G A I N,  EVERYONE! Great suggestions every time from this forum!!!

I use Solvaset and it melts the decals down to the point that they look painted on. The only time I have found that Solvaset to work so so was with thick Academy decals on my 1/25 scale Panther. I tried Solvaset on the smaller cross decals and it kind of got them on. In this particular case I went with brushing Future on the area and immediately lay the decal on the wet Future. Wait a couple of minutes to let the Future grab the decal from underneath then brush some more Future on top of the decal to seal it in. Guaranteed success, no silvering of the carrier film between the numbers but looks like it was painted.

One word though of caution, brush the entire panel with Future or the entire side otherwise you will see a different sheen when the clear flat is sprayed.

Here is a picture of those awful Academy decals applied with the Future method. I even got rid of the step left by thick decal film. I applied several Future coats from the center of the decal feathering it out as I went.

There is a difference between setting solutions and decal solvents.  I use setting solutions regularly when applying decals.  They are pretty benign.  Solvents, however, are "medical care" for difficult decals, or applying decals to difficult surfaces (extreme complex curvature, ridges, deep panel lines).  Solvents by their nature partially dissolve decals, and, like any medical care, involve risks.  I only use solvents for problems, and then start out with minimal application, increasing as needed.

Also, there is considerable variation in concentration and dissolving power between brands of decal solvents.

Don Stauffer

There is a difference between setting solutions and decal solvents.  I use setting solutions regularly when applying decals.  They are pretty benign.  Solvents, however, are "medical care" for difficult decals, or applying decals to difficult surfaces (extreme complex curvature, ridges, deep panel lines).  Solvents by their nature partially dissolve decals, and, like any medical care, involve risks.  I only use solvents for problems, and then start out with minimal application, increasing as needed.

Also, there is considerable variation in concentration and dissolving power between brands of decal solvents.

To add to what Don said, solvents can also be added later. So you can set the decal using a decal set, but without any solvent , then use the solvent to fix problem areas as they arise.

I've gone back the next day and treated some stubborn decals with Mr. Mark Softener to melt them down into panel lines or get rid of bubbles.  Just gently poke the surface with a very fine point sewing pin and put a drop of the solvent on it, then let it perform it's magic.

I don't think they will work well after you've used Future or other topcoat over the decal though (I've never tried though).

dmk

I don't think they will work well after you've used Future or other topcoat over the decal though (I've never tried though).

I had the same thing happen with my EagleCal decals for Lt. Klibbe's "Little Chief".  Overall, the decals were very good, but one of the ID code letters cracked, flaked and peeled.  I used Future, and some thinned white glue, as described above.  I brushed it under decals that lifted, and also used it to re-attach pieces that flaked off.