Beginner Super Glue

Hi Latigo,

The use of Super glue depends on the situation.  I would not recommend using it on a plastic to plastic joint/attachment. It's mainly used on resin or or dissimilar materials like plastic to metal.  In these cases it's good to have both thin and thick CA glue on hand.  On a long thin part like a ship's handrail , thin works well because it runs along the glue joint.  Thick works well on tiny dot-like attachments ie. antenae wire, metal gun barrels, pitot tubes etc.  I'm sure others will have a more complete and or accurate explaination to you questions.

I personally like the regular viscosity "Crazy Glue" and use it for most applications.

Some joints work better with the thicker, slower setting gel tlype CA, while others work okay with the normal thin stuff. I keep one of each on my bench.

I prefer Locktite brand for both. I can find it at local hardware store two blocks away instead of driving many miles to LHS.  And good amount for the price, plus containers that allow you to use almost all the glue contained within-some brands don't.

To be more specific on when to use which, the thin stuff requires really tight, excellent fitting surfaces.  Many joints on plastic models do not fit that well because of relief angles, etc.  So they require the gel stuff.  Also, long seams that require extra time applying and fitting, such as fuselage joints or hull joints benefit from slower set of gel.  But for smaller joints where fit is really good, quick set of thin stuff is nice.

I also use the Loctite stuff. I agree too that it's great for attaching small parts, provided that you have a good pre-fit. I pretty much prefer the thick stuff to the thin. The reason being I like to use it if there are locator holes where the part is to be placed. I can use a toothpick to place a very small drop of thick CA into the locator hole(s) and place the part. The thick gives me a little movement time if I need it, but still bonds very quickly. I still haven't gotten the hang of using the thin where there is a flat-on-flat "butt" joint. I even bought a glue looper but was never able to get it to work properly. Not a biggie though because I think I actually prefer to spread on a small amount of thin plastic cement for such seams anyway. The reason being I can control any squeeze out much better than with the CA, and if I'm doing the capillary thing (assembling fuselage halves for example), then I actually want a consistent squeeze out of fused material along the seam length, and I just can't get that with CA

Being a newbie myself, one of the first and biggest things I've learned on this first build and a few uncompleted practice builds is that it's much easier to use too much glue than it is to use too little

Not long after super glue appeared on the scene in the 70s we got a report from a civilian police department that someone had robbed a bank with the stuff. 

They rounded up everybody they found and glued their hands to the walls.  At that time it was so new that they had no idea how to neutralize it so everybody had to have their hands cut from the walls and taken to the hospital to get the wall off their hands..somehow.

Guys, thanks, I really appreciate the help. I'll stay away from the super thin stuff and start with both both medium and thick slow set.

Regards

Steve

By the way, you definitely CAN use it to join plastic to plastic. I mean, as long as you're not gluing plastic bowling balls to plastic bumpers and other high-stress situations, you can use superglue to glue parts on models with no adverse effects at all. Just DO NOT use it to glue clear parts, EVER. You will fog the parts.

For a practitioner I would stick with a good strong fast acting liquid cement like Tamiya or ten-x liquid cement.Practice on plastic extra parts with the super glue type of cements.Remember this;Regular or advanced liquid cement melts plastic together.Super glue like glues sticks and hardens very hard ,and with some light pressure can crack.Super glue like cement can be translucent through some paints when a small flashlight hits it.Construction fault Issue.When using these "Super Glue " like cements, wet sand within 2hours after application.

If you use clear future floor polish first, you should be ok.

For about a year I went crazy with "Crazy Glue"! Using it extensively in every build. However, I've pretty much gotten away from super glues. I began finding separated seams on models where I used super glue. Parts falling off. Of course it could have been my application. I cut my modeling teeth on regular model glue and have gone back to what I know best. I do keep some super glue around for an occasional modeling use but mainly for other household uses. I buy the multi packs at the dollar stores. I can go for months without using any so the tube I last opened is dried up. I just open a new tube realizing it will probably be for a single use. A 4-pack will last me a year.

I realize some modelers love the stuff and thats great. It just doesn't work for me.

Hi :

    You must know this . There is no such thing as a beginners " Super Glue " . Now , That said , I recommend Loctite brand for your first type .The Gel works great .

     When you've gotten comfortable with it then Switch to  "Bob Smith Super Glues ". Why ? Well they have a Thin , Medium and Thick product . It is available in various sizes including refill bottles for it and the " Zip Kicker " .Be extra careful with any thin C/A ! That's the one that'll get you if any does .

     The Zip Kicker works with EVERY brand too ! A few things to keep in mind though .Try these tests .Pull two parts glued straight apart .You won't be able to . Now try that with a twist or bend .It will fail . C/A Glue ( proper name ) Has very little if absolutely NO torsional strength .

     That doesn't mean it won't glue something that is a little bent . Just don't put it on something that has to much of a twist . Plastic , Like Metal has a memory . It wants to be like it was , Not , how you want it ( This is mainly for scratch building ).

     It is a good product and as long as you respect it and have a container of " Super - Glue Debonder " on your bench you'll do fine . Yes , I have learned from experience Lol. Lol.       T.B.          

P.S. One nice part also about the B.Smith stuff .They have new empty bottles and tops and nozzles available too !

Their is only one use for future floor polish is its use on clear parts like canopies Windows.Other than that.Their is a reason that any modeling supply company do not supply these household chemicals or have a match.Alclad "Kristal Kote" works better than Future on clear parts.Try it.So called"Futre is also good for gluing canopy in place.Many modelers often spray many coats to attain a gloss texture.This may result in an over coat that can orange peel or even creat a Very thick appearance to the surdace.In time exposure Future will yellow if applied thick.

Again, thanks for all the responses. I liked the one that advises regular glue with some C/A around for special puposes. Think I'll go that route with some Loctite.

Regards

Steve

Here's a novel use:  During a labor strike at our plant years ago, the  union guys squirted it into all the outside door locks' keyholes on the office building!

Thought it was a dirty trick, as the office people had no bones to pick with the union.