help needed do i need to thin semi gloss clear before spraying

I'm sure there are many here with more experience and better advice than I can give, but my personal criterion is how it sprays. I make a test shot into a kit box lid. If it sprays smoothly then it's fine. If it's gloppy, spits drops of paint or clogs, then it needs some thinning. Testing every batch before attempting to shoot is the key for me.

Future needs not to be thinned for airbrushing. However, any clear coat do need to be thinned just you would with paint.

I am a bit confused why you asked for a clear coat to work on panel lines though.

The gloss coat makes the pin wash on the panel lines flow smoother. I find that pin washing over a flat finish will wick the pin wash along the panel line sides on to the surrounding area.

I like to thin Future with alcohol or Windex cause it seems to spray much smoother  than if not thinned.

Just about any clear coat or paint needs to be thinned to properly cycle thru the AB. You just have to experiment and see what works for you. I usually start at a 50/50 mix and go from there.

I'd like to quote something in PJ's response to address Sheep's question about clear coat prior to dealing with panel lines, but there is no reply button at the bottom of PJ's response.

This has happens to me often, and so far approximately 4 times this week and I simply do not post my comments when it does.

Is there some chance somebody could look at this old squawk?

(Yes, I know how to insert a quote manually and yes I realise that I may indeed be turning into a grumpy old man)

Anyway, I was just going to toss out that I have been using Flory Wash for some panel lines and just like PJ's pin wash, it also likes a nice clear coat prior to use, Sheep.

 

Plasticjunkie

The gloss coat makes the pin wash on the panel lines flow smoother. I find that pin washing over a flat finish will wick the pin wash along the panel line sides on to the surrounding area.

I like to thin Future with alcohol or Windex cause it seems to spray much smoother  than if not thinned.

Just about any clear coat or paint needs to be thinned to properly cycle thru the AB. You just have to experiment and see what works for you. I usually start at a 50/50 mix and go from there.

 

 

This is why I don't do panel washes. On real aircraft you don't see this unless there's an oil leak which is also another reason why I don't do it. Also I don't use anything in a jar, except for Creatix, Apple Barrel, Plaid, or other water based acrylics since paints have a tendency to separate. With spray paint you just shake it, and go - no thinning needed to get a nice smooth finish. Otherwise you'll want to use MINERAL SPIRITS to thin enamel paint as this is what they're formulated with. Acrylic paints will clean up with these, as well as isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Try this istead of floor polish since you're simply gambling with your finish, and your model by doing so.

 

~ Cobra Chris

not for my panel lines just to protect from the enamel i will be using

If you're looking for a good clear coat I use Krylon, but you might want to decant this (spray it into a clean and dry empty soup can) afterwards pour the clear coat into an airbrush jar, then spray it from an airbrush if you want a smooth finish. It's best to spray a thin gloss coat over your model first after your base colour. Wait for 3 minutes to dry, then do your wash, wait for it to dry about half an hour, then spray it with your clear coat to seal it, and keep any weathering from being rubbed off while handling. If you have more questions, or you don't understand what we've said just say something. We're here to help.

 

~ Cobra Chris

thanks cobra

Cobra 427

 

Plasticjunkie

The gloss coat makes the pin wash on the panel lines flow smoother. I find that pin washing over a flat finish will wick the pin wash along the panel line sides on to the surrounding area.

I like to thin Future with alcohol or Windex cause it seems to spray much smoother  than if not thinned.

Just about any clear coat or paint needs to be thinned to properly cycle thru the AB. You just have to experiment and see what works for you. I usually start at a 50/50 mix and go from there.

 

 

 

 

 

This is why I don't do panel washes. On real aircraft you don't see this unless there's an oil leak which is also another reason why I don't do it. Also I don't use anything in a jar, except for Creatix, Apple Barrel, Plaid, or other water based acrylics since paints have a tendency to separate. With spray paint you just shake it, and go - no thinning needed to get a nice smooth finish. Otherwise you'll want to use MINERAL SPIRITS to thin enamel paint as this is what they're formulated with. Acrylic paints will clean up with these, as well as isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Try this istead of floor polish since you're simply gambling with your finish, and your model by doing so.

 

 

~ Cobra Chris

 

Panel line and rivet detail are mostly not caused from oil or fluid leaks but from dirt and grime that accumulates in recessed areas of real aircraft. We just flew in several commercial jets during our last vacation and even though they were exceptionally clean, you still saw the darker recessed rivet, screw head and small access panel lines caused from trapped grime. This is something I always look at and pay close attention as I try to get a window seat to check out the wing details. These will probably come off during a maintenance cleaning of the air frame.

Yes Future is a floor product but its use is not restricted to only floors but has branched out as a clear parts restorer, gloss acrylic paint additve to make a flat paint glossy thus cutting down on an extra step of shooting clear gloss over the project, just to name a few uses. It produces a glass smooth gloss finish either hand brushed or sprayed. I have been using it for many years and have nothing but excellent results to report.

Greg

I have switched over to Flory Washes and no longer do thinner type washes, except on some armor applications. I simply love how Flory will grime and weather the surface with just a swipe of a water dampened Q Tip as most comes off revealing the recessed details. And yes it works best over a gloss finish cause it comes off easier, otherwise it acts as a filter over flat paint and becomes difficult to remove.

For the love of God, DO NOT use KRYLON!!! They've changed their formula and it's not the same as it once was. I know because Krylon ruined a couple of kits of mine and they've both ended up in the trash bin. There are better clear coat products out there.