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What glue do I use ????

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  • Member since
    September 2016
What glue do I use ????
Posted by xtal_01 on Sunday, September 25, 2016 9:59 PM
Hello,
 
I am 54 and it has been about 30 years since I have built a model.  I was into all types of models from HO trains to planes, cars .... the only important thing to me was getting them as close to "real" as possible.  Weathering, thread for spark plug wires, .... I even went as far as to make a mold and cast a hood for a car because that exact model was not available.
 
I realize a lot has changed since then.
 
I have been collecting a couple of models thinking this winter I would like to get back into the hobby.
 
When I was searching one of the model sites I found that Revell-monogram has re-issued the see through P-51 Mustang.  http://www.hobbyshipper.com/cgi-bin/wsr600p?V=RMX&I=MONS0067
 
I could not believe this as I had this one back in the 60's when I was a kid!
 
Back when I built models, there was only one type of model glue.  Epoxy was very expensive and super glue had just come out (I remember my dad gluing his fingers together with it).
 
Anyway, I have read several articles on glue tonight and now I am more confused than ever.
 
I read that there is a clear "canopy glue"  .... wish I had that years ago.  The only problem I see with this is that in all the articles, it says this glue is not very strong.
 
Would it be strong enough to hold together an entire model?
 
If not, what other glue would you recommend.
 
Thanks so much .....
 
Mike Csele

Jericho, VT

  • Member since
    October 2011
  • From: Lake Villa, Illinois
Posted by Chuck Davis on Tuesday, September 27, 2016 12:35 PM

Hi Mike - welcome back to the hobby.

Most "clear" glues I have seen are some type of watch crystal glue, and you're right - they likely aren't strong enough for that kit.  I built the Visible Mustang back a few years, but I did mine half clear/half painted.  I cheated the "half" a bit by filling along the seam and masking the painted half a wee bit over the line to hide the seam.  If you plan to build it all clear, maybe one of the other folks can chime in with a glue recommmendation.  Good luck - and have fun!

Chuck

Chuck Davis

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Tuesday, September 27, 2016 2:19 PM

I keep 3 glues on the bench.

1. CA(super glue)...this is good for attaching metal (PE) and resin parts, as well as the "fiddly bits"(antennas, pitot tubes, things like that)

2A. Plastic cement...we've come a long ways since the old "tube glue". I am a recent convert to Tamiyas "Extra Thin". Come in a square glass bottle, with a green lid. Just hold the parts together and touch the applicator brush to the joint. Capalary action will suck the glue into the seam. It's good stuff!

2B. Also plastic cement. I was using Testors liquid cement, before switching to Tamiyas. It comes in a triangular shaped container with a pointy spout. Also good stuff, but takes longer to set up and can be a bit messier. 

 Your plastic cements are for joining plastic to plastic...it melts the plastic a little, and as you squeeze the parts together, it "welds" the plastic together...they are worthless when it comes to resin and metal.

3. Clear parts glue. I use Testors, again in the triangle bottle. The only thing I use it for is clear parts...pretty worthless for anything else. It is plenty strong enough for gluing down canopies, however, I will use CA instead, if the canopy is to be opened (go very sparingly, CA will fog up a canopy if ya get too much on there). This glue also works for filling in small gaps, such as around a canopy or along a wing/fuselage joint...only good for small gaps. You do have to wipe away any excess, this stuff does not sand away well.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Green Bay, WI USA
Posted by echolmberg on Tuesday, September 27, 2016 3:00 PM

Fermis mentioned a very good point.  Those "canopy" glues are great for clear parts but they're strictly a contact cement.  They can tack a canopy to the rest of the aircraft but they do not weld the plastic together like the way the solvent glues can.

Super glue might be the route to take for that Phantom Mustang.  While I've never used the stuff before, I've heard that there are super glues made that are specially formulated to NOT fog the plastic.  See if you can find some of that.  Even then, I would use it most sparingly.  Fogging is caused by the fumes emitted by the super glue.

Chuck had a great tip as well.  If it were me, I'd probably go his route and use regular model glue to join the fuselage halves.  After cleaning up the fuselage seam, I'd paint just a smidgen over it to "neaten" it up a bit.  However, if you goal is to not paint either half of the fuselage, then I'd definitely see about getting the "no fog" super glue.

Eric

  • Member since
    May 2016
Posted by Revenant on Tuesday, September 27, 2016 7:20 PM

I'm a BIG Tenax7 fan...but it's kinda hot so you have to be experienced w liquid glues...

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