Removing paint from plastic model kits.

Squadron makes a pretty good product called Chameleon. I use it when needed, it can be reused too.

Yeah, we include a statement in our maintenance manuals for the signage we design that "Simple Green" use voids the warranty. Just strips the paint right off.

Geezer

In the same vane (AMHIK), I've found that a wetting down with CA accelerant like zip kicker, will easily remove enamel.

 

Geezer

In the same vane (AMHIK), I've found that a wetting down with CA accelerant like zip kicker, will easily remove enamel.

 

Geezer

In the same vane (AMHIK), I've found that a wetting down with CA accelerant like zip kicker, will easily remove enamel.

 

Geezer

In the same vane (AMHIK), I've found that a wetting down with CA accelerant like zip kicker, will easily remove enamel.

 

Geezer

In the same vane (AMHIK), I've found that a wetting down with CA accelerant like zip kicker, will easily remove enamel.

 

Geezer

In the same vane (AMHIK), I've found that a wetting down with CA accelerant like zip kicker, will easily remove enamel.

 

Geezer

In the same vane (AMHIK), I've found that a wetting down with CA accelerant like zip kicker, will easily remove enamel.

 

Geezer

In the same vane (AMHIK), I've found that a wetting down with CA accelerant like zip kicker, will easily remove enamel.

 I had some clear canopy for a F4B/N 1/48 scale Phantom, that I applied liquid mask and had a small area that was not covered.  Removing the mask after air brushing found that spot.  I took a Q -tip very lightly soaked in Zip Kicker accelerant and lightly rubbed , removing the paint.  Only a slight foggy residue remained.  I soaked the canopy in Future floor wax, eliminated the fog.  The clear plastic was not harmed.

I just did this very thing. I had primed an already painted model I bought on eBay. Once primed, I realized that there were some severe surface blemishes which had been concealed by a thick coat of paint applied by somebody other than me and I wanted to resurface the whole thing. I soaked it in Simple Green. The primer came off in about an hour. The thick paint layer came mostly off in 24 hours with some scrubbing with a soft toothbrush. There were some spots where the paint was laid on really thick, and that required an additional soak after toothbrushing the surface layer away. No harm done to the plastic at all!

Digital_Cowboy

Devil Dawg

Enamel thinner will attack the plastic after a few minutes of the plastic soaking in it. Dried paint does not come off as quickly or easily as fresh or wet paint. The exotic stuff mentioned above won't attack the plastic, plus, most of it is enviromentally friendly.

DD,

     Thank you, as I said, I've seen this question come up in the past.  And I've always wondered why it was that people didn't try the thinner that was made for the type of paint orginally used.

     Question, if one didn't soak the model in the thinner, but applied it with a toothbrush, or even an airbrush would that work?:

I don't think so. The paint remover (whatever type you use) needs time to soak in and loosen the paint. Just applying it with a toothbrush or airbrush won't give it any time to soak and loosen the paint (a minimum of a few hours would be needed with any of the removers listed previously). Again, if you try to use paint thinner for this, you're just asking for trouble, as the thinner will attack the plastic and mar it - probably to the point that sanding out the blemishes won't work. Try it on a piece of painted scrap plastic to see if does what you want.

In the same vane (AMHIK), I've found that a wetting down with CA accelerant like zip kicker, will easily remove enamel.

Cowboy, if we're talking about solvent-based paint, then no, the thinner will craze the plastic.  amhik...

Gary

Devil Dawg

Enamel thinner will attack the plastic after a few minutes of the plastic soaking in it. Dried paint does not come off as quickly or easily as fresh or wet paint. The exotic stuff mentioned above won't attack the plastic, plus, most of it is enviromentally friendly.

DD,

     Thank you, as I said, I've seen this question come up in the past.  And I've always wondered why it was that people didn't try the thinner that was made for the type of paint orginally used.

     Question, if one didn't soak the model in the thinner, but applied it with a toothbrush, or even an airbrush would that work?:

Enamel thinner will attack the plastic after a few minutes of the plastic soaking in it. Dried paint does not come off as quickly or easily as fresh or wet paint. The exotic stuff mentioned above won't attack the plastic, plus, most of it is enviromentally friendly.

Okay, every now and then I see this question come up.  And I have to ask what to me is a rather simple and easy question.  If one originally used enamel why not use  enamel thinner to remove it?  Why try and use all of these "exotic" chemicals to remove the paint?

I tried the oven cleaner route, and although it took off some paint, there was much more than just hung on. On the advice of someone in a modeling forum, I went to Lowe's and picked up a bottle of Purple Power, which did a much better job. I soaked the parts for a couple of hours and most of the paint came right off, leaving me just a little to scrub off. The stuff is strong, though - I used it outdoors and washed the parts off with water as soon as I took them out of the solution. Latex gloves are a must.

www.lowes.com/pd_242634-58116-4320P_0__

Avoid Pine Sol! I soaked a model in that stuff overnight and not only did the paint turn into a gummy, sticky, impossible to clean mess, but it softened the plastic as well. It may be a fine product for cleaning floors, but not for cleaning paint off plastic models.

Mustang8376

...Enamel can be removed by Easy Off.

I have to disagree.  I use enamels to paint my toy soldiers, Testor's gloss enamels, for example, and I have stripped them off with Super Clean, using the method I described in my previous post.

If it was painted with Acrylics, Simple Green can strip it off with no issues.  Just let it soak.  Enamel can be removed by Easy Off.

wolfhammer1

I have used Pine Sol in the past, but am not sure it is still available.  Just soak the model in it and most of the paint will slide off.

John

And, it will smell good too!

I have used Pine Sol in the past, but am not sure it is still available.  Just soak the model in it and most of the paint will slide off.

John

I use Super Clean, too.  I first tired it a couple of years ago, to remove the chrome from a sprue of chromed parts.  It took it off in under 2 minutes.   I find that it will soften paint in about 5 to 10 minutes, at which time I can gently scrub the paint off with an old toothbrush.  I do find, though, that if I soak parts longer, the paint will lift off and dissolve into the liquid.

It is not nearly as caustic as oven cleaner, whose principal ingredient is lye, as noted in the earlier post.  Also, you can use a batch of SC over and over, whereas oven cleaner is a one-shot product.  I keep a couple of glass jars of various sizes, filled with SC, for parts of various sizes.

I use it to strip paint from plastic, and also from metal figures.  I also use it, since it's a de-greaser, to clean kits before I start building, just a couple of drops in the warm water that I use.

I also use it as a brush cleaner, for acrylics, and it also has household uses (I unclogged a drain with it).

I have been very successful using "Castrol Super Clean" to strip enamels from old kits. I pour some in an old plastic container & let the parts soak overnight. If there are stubborn areas, let it soak a little longer. It works faster on flat finishes but will work on gloss as well, & in my experience, will not harm the plastic (except clear pieces).  It's biodegradable, but as with anything used to strip paint, you should always wear gloves & goggles. A similar (and slightly cheaper)  product is called "Purple Power".

Methyl hydrate works wonders on acrylics.

to what Rob said. That's how I've done it in the past myself.

Gary

I use fume free Easy Off oven cleaner. Normally for pieces parts, I'll put them in a large ziplock bag and spray them with the foam and let sit overnight. But for a more precise method, you may wish to spray some in an old cup and scrub with an old toothbrush.