First time using Alclad.. Tips?

I've done some reading and research on using Alclad lacquers and how to achieve the best paint job. I would use Alclad gloss black base. Black primer is a flat coat, so I don't know what type of primer you're using. Spray in several light coats rather than heavy coats. Make sure you have plenty of ventilation and a respirator mask of sorts for lacquer has a pretty strong odor that's not safe to breathe.

I don't think 1 bottle of Alclad aluminum is going to be enough for a 1/48 scale bomber since you're going to spray in several light coats.

Tom's right about the ventilation. You'd better have plenty of it. Additionally , practice your gloss coating and make sure you've got it smooth and have a good wet look to it. Alclad will have to go on thin and make sure you're wearing nitrile gloves as the oil from your skin will leave marks and discolor the alclad. I love the stuff personally but it is it's own animal and sometimes is unpredicatable like one.

Alclad is fantastic but you need to follow the instructions. I could write you a page of instructions but just go here and read then try it out. They even have videos showing you how to apply it. And no, one bottle will not be enough for that beast of a model you will be painting.

http://alclad2.com/how-to/

http://alclad2.com/how-to/video-instructions/

 Wear a mask rated for chemical fumes. I bought one at Home Depot for under $20. The main trick is that the surface has to be free of fingerprints, scratches etc.

You don't need a black or a gloss base for the Aluminum. That's only required for the high shine (Chorme, Airframe aluminum and polished aluminum). However, a black base will help you see coverage better and avoid over applying it.

You want light coats. Do not repeat passes. One pass, move on, and come back. It's safe for second pases after a minute of so. It's going to take you 4-5+ bottles for a 1/48 B-29.

AVOID the Alclad black base. Google "Problems with alclad black base" and read the horror stories. Ask me how I know.

I would advise you not to monkey with Alclad.  I have ruined models and thrown out many $$$ worth of the stuff.  Maybe just my fault, but I never got it to work right.  Practice on scrap first, if you want to use it.

Once painted with the Alclad handle the model as little as possible. This stuff very easily rubs off just from handling the model.

Thank you for all the great tips everyone. I am famous for trying to put too many coats on at once, i recall seeing a featured plane in FSM not too long ago, I think it was an F101 or one of those pointy ones, had Canadian decals, that the builder used "rub and buff" of all things, allied by hand, came out great. I think maybe the MASSIVE B-29 may be the wrong subject to try new things on... Plus that stuff is expensive if I recall correctly.... Thank you everyone! I will read the linked articles in the Am...

Rudy 

Forgot to add this. Tamiya TS-14 gloss black is an excellent base for this stuff if you ever plan on using it for high shine purposes but the guys are right about the gloss black not being necessary if you don't plan on going for that glossy effect. Sorry , been doing automotive builds as of late. First off this aint no dang car you're workin' on and subsequently it aint gonna have no high shine to it. In short, I stand corrected.

Cadet Chuck

I would advise you not to monkey with Alclad.  I have ruined models and thrown out many $$$ worth of the stuff.  Maybe just my fault, but I never got it to work right.  Practice on scrap first, if you want to use it.

 

Interesting...

I just googled "problems with Alclad black base" and am surprised to read stories of it not drying but staying tacky. Looks like it's time for an investment on Tamiya or Model Master gloss black instead.

I have had excellent results using a base of gloss black Krylon spray paint purchased from Wall Mart. Just decant the stuff and spray it in your air brush.  My P-47 was done this way with Alclad II air frame aluminum.

Alclad had a problem with their black gloss primer in one of the early batches when it first came out a couple of years back but they corrected the problem. I use Testors gloss enamel in the small bottle for the high shine Alclads and get excellent results. It's really a great product to work with.

Jay

Sweet looking P-47! Great looking NMF.

#1. Absolutely do not underestimate the quality of the finish you need on the plastic before any paint goes on. There can be no puttly blobs, seams, glue or whatever that you are not willing to see be about 500% more visible than before you painted. Unlike most gloss paints, it really is not. So it won't make your model any more gloss than it is before you paint. If you are into polishing your models with 1000/ 2000/ 2400/ 3000 and then liquid polish, fine. otherwise the results will be dismal.

#2. I sure wouldn't start with a big B-29 or anything like that. You'd need at least half a dozen failures, near failures, mediocre finishes and decent finishes before that will work for you.

#3. I'm in the camp of not liking Alclad primer. Not only is it expensive, but it's difficult to get an opaque coat. I have used Krylon gloss black, either in the spray can or decanted and through the airbrush. Most recently, a lot of little square testors Gloss Black enamel bottles.

#4. For a big model like a B-29 you will need probably at least three bottles of three colors each.

#5. I get pretty good results with Testor's Chrome. Not great, I do not pretend to be any good at NMF.

GMorrison is right. Yes Alclad can and will be expensive especially if doing a 1/48 scale bomber. Use Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal Silver instead. Keep in mind, not all bombers are shiny during combat missions.

The Alclad black base is an enamel, and unlike acrylics and lacquers, enamels cure. Now, it generally does take a while for them to dry and then cure. If it's cured it won't be sticky or smelly. Alclad is lacquer, and if you spray a lacquer over uncured enamel the enamel will melt. That's exactly what happened to me with my bad batch.

Now, Alclad claims they fixed the issue (which was incorrect ratios of ingredients from what I heard). However, I really liked the way the stuff laid down, so I have since bought two other bottles and tested out. I kid you not, I have samples of stuff painted with it close to two years ago that are still sticky to the touch. That is, they're not cured. So, I just wouldn't risk it.


Alclad is absolutely the best metallic you're going to get. Sure there are alternatives, but I see no need in trying to save a buck and sacrificing the quality of your finish. No, B-29s were not polished, so I'd avoid the high shines. Look at pics and pic three or 4 shades to get some variation in panels like the real thing. Use Aluminum as your base.

Thank you everyone for your prompt in-depth responses, tips and methods. I think I will try the Alclad on a smaller project first!!!! When I do, I will try these methods And report back. Thank you everybody! 

I haven't tried it but the Tamiya rattle can metallic finishes look very good for such a big subject.

As someone mentioned, alclad does rub off very easily once applied. It is important to clear coat it after application. (I've found the various alclad clear coats to be very nice). Also, if you do need to touch up and repair areas along the way, it's no problem. It goes on very thin. I've had no problems with either the grey or black alclad primers. Mr surfacer 1200 or 1500 is nice as well, for priming.

This is a good thread loaded with good info here. 

I have a question on applying Alclad as well. I want a shiny finish on my F-86 as a tribute to John Glen's restored aircraft, the Mig Mad Marine.  I have Alclad Grey Primer and Gloss Base Black in my stock.

Can I use the Gloss Base Black directly on the plastic or do I have to first use the Grey primer, then the Gloss Black and finally the Aluminum finish ?

TY in advance for the reply.

Gloss black is what you need for the high shine colors. If you want it shiny then use polished aluminum. Make sure the gloss black is smooth like glass.

You can use gloss black over bare plastic, but you shouldn't. Again, avoid Alclads own black base. The problem with not priming is the surface needs to be smooth and primer acts as a microfiller. No black you use (unless it's a black primer like Mr. Surfacer - which isn't gloss) is going to fill imperfections.

A big Ty PJ and Tomcatguy.  i took your advice and primed with Alclad grey and it came ot pretty good.  Next is the gloss black , he said with trepidation.

Hi Rudy,

Notwithstanding all the comments and advice given above, I WOULD always apply a black base before you use Alclad.  The Alclad black base primer is legendary for being a problem and has supposedly been fixed as indicated earlier,  but I wouldn't take a chance with it just in case.  I use either Krylon Gloss Black for Plastic, decanted from a rattle can, or Tamiya TS-14 lacquer.  The Krylon product used to be a lacquer but is now actually an enamel.  It dries fast, but it's still an enamel and you should let it dry for at least 3 days before applying Alclad, which is usually a lacquer.  Now the stuff that few people know about Alclad.

The high gloss Alclad finishes like Chrome or Polished aluminum are alcohol based and are not true lacquers, even though the bottle may say so in the generic "Alclad Lacquer" labelling.  That is why Alclad recommends enamel base primers for them, so that they will adhere to the base coat stronger than other paints because the enamel retains just enough "stickiness" to bond to these high shine finishes.  If people complain about the Alclad finish rubbing off, they probably don't have the correct base coat.  The other Alclad colors like Aluminum, Steel, etc. are true lacquers, which can be sprayed on well cured enamel finishes (like Krylon) or, better yet, lacquer base coats like the Tamiya TS-14 Gloss Black.  The high shine finishes don't mask very well and they may react to decal softening solutions, so make sure you coat them with Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear finishes like ALC 600 before doing so.  The other real lacquer colors are quite tough and don't need a clear coat, but you might add one anyway to add shine if that's what you are after.

As others have said, make sure your plastic finish is PERFECT as possible before spraying the base coat.  Once you find flaws- and you will- repair them and re-spray the primer coat before you spray Alclad. Spray each Alcad coat on in a misting pass and don't let the Alclad pool or run or it might bite into the primer coat and bubble up.  Go over the area to be painted several times, but let the Alclad dry a bit before misting on another coat.

As an example of what Alclad can look like, here are three close up pics of my 1/32 Tamiya P-51D Mustang that was on the front cover of the January 2014 issue of FSM, using Krylon Gloss Black primer and several shades of Alclad Aluminum and even some high shine Chrome.

Hope this is helpful!

Cheers,

Chuck Sawyer