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Mig Jimenez Burnishing Fluid

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  • Member since
    August, 2017
Mig Jimenez Burnishing Fluid
Posted by ModelerKev on Monday, August 28, 2017 12:06 AM

Ok, so a few years ago my brother got me this really nice kit of a late production Tiger I tank from a company named MFH. High dollar kit, detail out the wazzoo and at the time I'd been away from modeling for almost 30 years so I took it slow initially to both relearn the "trade" and NOT mess any of it up. Got the metal tracks built, got the drive sprockets, idler wheels and roadwheels put together then life got in the way and I'm just now at a point where I want to start on the kit again.

So, in rediscovering this little jewel I've come across a seemingly handy little item that I like the results of it's use....namely, the burnishing fluid mentioned in this thread's title. I've watched several "how to" videos on using it and I really like the look of the tracks when this process is used.

Personal opinion here, a career tanker in the army, I can tell you all with the utmost certainty that tracks on a tank that's in combat DO NOT RUST. Nor do exhaust pipes and mufflers....a tank just doesn't live long enough under those conditions for that to happen. I've always hated the look of rusted track blocks but the "beaten" look the burnishing fluid gives the white metal really captures an authentic look in my opinion.

There's just one problem...all the "how to" videos I've watched are based on using FRIULMODEL tracks. These tracks use a wire as a pivot to hold the track blocks together. The tracks that came with my kit, although white metal, are two piece glue together track blocks that use the two pieces to "capture" the pivot molded into the next track block....and I spent a HUGE amount of time putting these tracks together.

So I've spent all this admittedly long winded explanation to ask one simple question...if I immerse my glue-together tracks in burnishing fluid....will that fluid act as a solvent and defeat the bonded glue holding the tracks together?

Since I spent all the time to put the tracks together...and I have to say I did a really good job of it...I'd like to use them on the kit. But I don't want to waste that time if the burnishing fluid will undo all that work. I'd rather pop the $50 for a FRIUL set of late model Tiger I tracks and chalk it up to a learning experience.

Anyway, sound off and let me hear what you all think on this subject. Thanks in advance for any and all helps and tips ;)


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