Mission models paint problem

Welcome back to the hobby and welcome to the Forums. 

I don't use Mission Models paints so I can't give you any suggestions on your problem with it. I would suggest that you go to the "Painting" section of the forum and post your question there. A lot of the members go there when they have problems with paint and they are very knowledgeable and able to answer questions like yours.

Hope you get your help there.

Jim 

Stay Safe.

If you are using their paint and primer and following their directions then sounds like the thinner is bad. I have used their products and they work well.

I suggest calling them or sending an email with your concerns.

I emailed their tech support and got a friendly same day reply from someone who sounded like a modelers.

Are you also mixing in their recommended polymer,formula is 10-2-2

I have used Mission Models paint for about three years without trouble after I learned how to thin and spray light coats. This past summer I mixed some paint for a model using a previously opened bottle ( about 25% remaining this the bottle). After thinning (60% paint, 40% thinner), I noticed some "clumps". They looked like granules of sand. I figured that the paint had gone bad, so I trashed it and started with a new bottle. The problem didn't repeat itself. This is the only time I have experienced this problem. I can't begin to guess what went wrong with your situation, but mine was almost certainly a problem with the partially used bottle. 

If you do hear from MM, please post their response. 

Have you read the Mission Models tip & FAQ page?

https://www.missionmodelsus.com/pages/tips-and-tricks-faq

Mixing 1:1 with thinner -- the paint will fail

The paint may fail/lump if the bottle was frozen.   The paint may fail/lump of the bottle was over heated.

I don't use Mission.   I sort of like my fool-proof Vallejo & Reaper paints

Yes it requires little thinner to work properly. I rather use enamels and lacquers.

My top 3 paints, ranked in order of how good they are.

1. MRP-Straight to airbrush.  No thinning.  Rock hard cure in less than 1 hour.  Extremely durable.

2. Testors Enamels.  Thin with their thinner if returning to the bottle.  Thin with any mineral spirits brand or lacquer thinner brand if not returning to the bottle ("might" cause adverse reactions with the rest of the paint in the bottle).  Curing time?  An eternity...more than 7 days usually, or longer, but has a durable finish once cured.   Not to mention that their Model Master Gloss enamels for cars produce an unbelievably good, mirror smooth finish.

3. Tamiya Acrylic.  Thin with their thinner if returning to the bottle.  Thin with 99% isopropyl alcohol (which is what I use) or lacquer thinner brand if not returning to the bottle ("might" cause adverse reactions with the rest of the paint in the bottle).  Most cure in about 24 hours, a few never seem to quite cure (gloss red and gloss blue to name a couple).  Durability isn't all that great, even when fully cured. 

None of the above paints "go bad" (what are those paints?  Are they bottles of paint, or cartons of milk?).  Never once got a "bad bottle" of any of them, no matter how old they are (some of my Model Master bottles are over 30 years old), or how cold/hot they got.  None require a chemistry set or precise ratios to make them do what they're supposed to do.  I just thin the ones that need thinning with one thinner, and get them to the consistency of skim milk in general (usually a 50/50 mix...sometimes less...sometimes more).  I don't think I have ever gotten a good bottle of Vallejo Model Air, their durability is awful, and their FS colors aren't even close (just my personal experience with them).  Their Model Color, on the other hand, is one of the best I have used for brush painting...but good old Testors square bottles are still the champion there.

As you can see, there is a wide array of experiences and preferences.  I just tend to move on quickly from things that you have to mess with.  I figure, why do that when there are so many better options out there?

I had this same issue. I believe they had a bad batch of thinner. I bought a new bottle of thinner and poly additive and I have had no issues since. 

Eaglecash867

None of the above paints "go bad" (what are those paints?  Are they bottles of paint, or cartons of milk?).  Never once got a "bad bottle" of any of them, no matter how old they are (some of my Model Master bottles are over 30 years old), or how cold/hot they got.  None require a chemistry set or precise ratios to make them do what they're supposed to do. 

Agree completely.   I tried Mission, Vallejo and some MIG with all the frustrations.  I had high hopes for Mission due to their color range, but the 3 part mixing silliness got old fast.   They may be a pretty decent acrylic, but not even close to the ease or durability of lacquer.  I have several dozen almost full bottles that are sitting on a shelf until I decide to  toss them.

My choices are MRP or Gunze for airbrush and Tamiya for small detail painting.   

MJY65

My choices are MRP or Gunze for airbrush and Tamiya for small detail painting.   

OH!  Forgot about Gunze!  I have a few of those and love them for airbrushing.  They also have some really cool colors that nobody else has...like the Metallic Blue Green for older F-15 avionics bays.  Love their Mr. Metal Primer too.  Its a must for painting photo etch parts.

Eaglecash867

My top 3 paints, ranked in order of how good they are.

1. MRP-Straight to airbrush.  No thinning.  Rock hard cure in less than 1 hour.  Extremely durable.

2. Testors Enamels.  Thin with their thinner if returning to the bottle.  Thin with any mineral spirits brand or lacquer thinner brand if not returning to the bottle ("might" cause adverse reactions with the rest of the paint in the bottle).  Curing time?  An eternity...more than 7 days usually, or longer, but has a durable finish once cured.

3. Tamiya Acrylic.  Thin with their thinner if returning to the bottle.  Thin with 99% isopropyl alcohol (which is what I use) or lacquer thinner brand if not returning to the bottle ("might" cause adverse reactions with the rest of the paint in the bottle).  Most cure in about 24 hours, a few never seem to quite cure (gloss red and gloss blue to name a couple).  Durability isn't all that great, even when fully cured.  Not to mention that their Model Master Gloss enamels for cars produce an unbelievably good, mirror smooth finish.

None of the above paints "go bad" (what are those paints?  Are they bottles of paint, or cartons of milk?).  Never once got a "bad bottle" of any of them, no matter how old they are (some of my Model Master bottles are over 30 years old), or how cold/hot they got.  None require a chemistry set or precise ratios to make them do what they're supposed to do.  I just thin the ones that need thinning with one thinner, and get them to the consistency of skim milk in general (usually a 50/50 mix...sometimes less...sometimes more).  I don't think I have ever gotten a good bottle of Vallejo Model Air, their durability is awful, and their FS colors aren't even close (just my personal experience with them).  Their Model Color, on the other hand, is one of the best I have used for brush painting...but good old Testors square bottles are still the champion there.

As you can see, there is a wide array of experiences and preferences.  I just tend to move on quickly from things that you have to mess with.  I figure, why do that when there are so many better options out there?

 

 

Agree with your post with one exception. Never say never. I had bottles of Model Master enamels barely  couple of months old, opened and used, did not puck back unused paint and it went bad as in thick rubbery gue soon after purchase.

There was a thread not long ago about the newer Model Master enamel paint having this issue. I too have bottles of Floquil and Testors enamels 20+ years old that are fine but for some reason, IMO Testors quality control was not the same in recent times. 

Thanks for the feedback everyone. Im going to lean towards the thinner is bad and try a fresh bottle. If the problem still persists it may be the fact that my hobby room tends to get warm in the summer (30 degree C) due to being 4th floor and a west facing window. My tamiya, testors, vallejo,humbrol and model master paints dont seem to be bothered by it and after 6 years are still working like the day they were bought. Sadly i like mm's primer for its durability and airbrushability but if they cant tolerate temperature changes and thinner that goes off i will just stick with vallejo primer going forward and tamiya for my primary paint. Will let you know if I hear anything back from Mission models but after a month since messaging I doubt they will message back now. Kinda gives me the impression they dont care about customers after the sale.