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FEDERAL STANDARD Spray Paint - ALL COLORS - Up To 12oz. Cans !https://www.crosslinkpaints.com/Federal-Standard-Matched-FEDSTD595-Touch-Up-Paint.html
Also available as non-spray paint, in sizes up to 1 gallon.
Since Testors Model Master paints have been discontinued, this is a valuable resource.Dave F.
Interesting option. Poking around it's listed as an acrylic enamel ?? Just when I thought I had paint figured out.
Thanks,
John
"Acrylic" does not automatically mean "water based." "Acrylic" can refer to the pigment or the binder.
"Generally, paints are composed of a binder, a solvent, and a pigment. The binder is a polymer, either dissolved in the paint or suspended in it by emulsifiers, the role of which is to hold the pigment to the surface. For emulsion paints, the solvent used is just water, whilst for others organic compounds such as turpentine are utilised."(https://www.compoundchem.com/2014/03/21/inorganic-pigment-compounds-the-chemistry-of-paint/)
I get that - Tamiya acrylics being a great example. So what to you thin an acrylic enamel with? This is why I'm so hesitant to try new paint manufacturers.
keavdog I get that - Tamiya acrylics being a great example. So what to you thin an acrylic enamel with? This is why I'm so hesitant to try new paint manufacturers.
I apologize if this sounds like a smart-alecky suggestion, because it's not meant to be, but, have you looked for a site for the manufacturer? I'd be curious to see if he suggests what to use to thin the product.
I have the same feeling about trying paint brands I've never used before, too, by the way. I have perfectly good brands in my kit, so unless they all go away at once, I don't have a need to try other brands.
The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.
I remembered an example of an acrylic enamel, and that's the old Pactra line. Pactra put out an acrylic enamel, which they described as water-based. So that's what I used to use to thin the paint and clean my brushes. I can't say that that is applicable to all brands of acrylic enamel. As we noted above, "acrylic" doesn't mean "water-based".
I think I will give their 34094 Green camo a try on a Stryker project later this year. Really digging a 12 ounce rattle can.
Robert
"I can't get ahead no matter how hard I try, I'm gettin' really good at barely gettin' by"
keavdog Interesting option. Poking around it's listed as an acrylic enamel ?? Just when I thought I had paint figured out.
Dig deeper and read the Material Safety Data Sheets and Product Description. They are an Alkyd Enamel, not acrylic. They are a solvent based product.
Go lightly spraying that rattlecan. Can see crazed surfaces in your future
For enamel users try MCW enamel paints. They are like the discontinued Model Master paints but with much better surface bonding. They have a military color line.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
Note : After more "digging", it is an Alkyd Enamel ( solvent-based ), with what they call an "Acrylic Modification".PRODUCT DATA Sheet : https://www.crosslinkpaints.com/assets/images/LVP-Acrylic-Enamel-TDS.pdf MSDS Sheet : https://www.crosslinkpaints.com/assets/images/LVP-Acrylic-Enamel-MSDS.pdf Dave F.
Nice find.
Thank you.
Good heavens, the shipping cost obscene for a single can. Guess I will be taking a pass after all.
Reduce (ie thin) with Acetone, Naptha, MEK, MAK, or xylene (that is what the Q codes) mean. Cleanup with MEK or Acetone
This is not a benign water-based acrylic
Just me, and I appreciate the information, but I'm in the if it's not broke, don't fix it.
goldhammer88Just me, and I appreciate the information, but I'm in the if it's not broke, don't fix it.
All products are not for everyone . . . Use whatever works for you.
[quote user="the Baron"]I apologize if this sounds like a smart-alecky suggestion, because it's not meant to be, but, have you looked for a site for the manufacturer? I'd be curious to see if he suggests what to use to thin the product.
[quote user="the Baron"]
PPG is the maker of the products used by Crosslink.
PRODUCT DATA Sheet : https://www.crosslinkpaints.com/assets/images/LVP-Acrylic-Enamel-TDS.pdf MSDS Sheet : https://www.crosslinkpaints.com/assets/images/LVP-Acrylic-Enamel-MSDS.pdf Dave F.
plasticjunkie For enamel users try MCW enamel paints. They are like the discontinued Model Master paints but with much better surface bonding. They have a military color line.
Your comments and questions are always welcome.
JohnnyK plasticjunkie For enamel users try MCW enamel paints. They are like the discontinued Model Master paints but with much better surface bonding. They have a military color line. MCW no longer makes rattle cans do to a shortage of cans.
MCW no longer makes rattle cans do to a shortage of cans.
I use air brushes to paint. Tons of control over rattle cans.
plasticjunkieI use air brushes to paint. Tons of control over rattle cans.
I guess you missed the part on the website where the paint is available as non-spray can products, in sizes up to a gallon ?
https://www.crosslinkpaints.com/Federal-Standard-Matched-FEDSTD595-Touch-Up-Paint.html
NAR26128 plasticjunkie I use air brushes to paint. Tons of control over rattle cans. I guess you missed the part on the website where the paint is available as non-spray can products, in sizes up to a gallon ? https://www.crosslinkpaints.com/Federal-Standard-Matched-FEDSTD595-Touch-Up-Paint.html
plasticjunkie I use air brushes to paint. Tons of control over rattle cans.
I saw that. Just replying to Jk that I don't
use rattle cans.
You mean you can't decant?
My . I worked as a senior lab tech for a major chemical company for 18 years. After reading that MSDS I would not use that paint without having a set-up like those in a good car painting shop, with a full air supplied suit. That is dangerous stuff. Im 82 years old and I plan to be around for a while so I won't be trying it. Like I said "My " for what it's worth. Your choice.
Jim
Stay Safe.
Main WIP:
On the Bench: Artesania Latina (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II
I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.
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