Paints at Hobby Lobby

Glamdring

Just curious after reading all these endorsements of the craft paints, is a primer required beforehand?

 

I tried using some years ago because my mom had tubs full of them, but I found they were a bit delicate for my tastes.  I had applied directly to the bare plastic,  and thought they chipped and scratched off just from normal handling before sealing it, so I never gave them a 2nd try. 

I would love to find the recipe for success with them, as I love their price and bottle size.

 

What I find especially useful about primer, is the ability to see and correct any flaws before committing to the final finish. The better paint adhesion is a welcome bonus.

Patrick

ikar01

What about that new line of Revell paints that have started to show up around here?  I'm not sure if they are enamel, laquer, or something else, the price stickers seem to cover the information,.  They do it on the new Japanese laquers too.  About all I can read is the number, but not the color.  It makes it hard to decifer the different IJN colors.

 

Where at Colonial Photo?

What about that new line of Revell paints that have started to show up around here?  I'm not sure if they are enamel, laquer, or something else, the price stickers seem to cover the information,.  They do it on the new Japanese laquers too.  About all I can read is the number, but not the color.  It makes it hard to decifer the different IJN colors.

patrick206

But again I caution, always check to ensure compatibility with your thinning solution.

I tried craft paint with mixed success. I became discouraged when I had great success spraying green, but terrible with the same brand in black. I used the same thinning formula (IPA) and the black paint turned to gel. I was bummed. I am not giving up on it just yet though.

patrick206

I find them very useful for some jobs like wheel wells, fuselage interiors, etc.

Ditto! And it brush paints nice if you apply a heavy coat. No streaking, even coverage, and it looks airbrushed. This may end up being my main use for them. Though-- the heavy application will affect detail some. 

And I agree that it is a fragile. You could seal it or just be careful.

Glamdring

Just curious after reading all these endorsements of the craft paints, is a primer required beforehand?

Yes, for the same reason to use a primer with any other types of paint, to improve adherence.  And water-based acrylics generally need a primer more than enamels or lacquers, because they're not hot and don't react all that strongly with the surface.  I apply my craft acrylics over my Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, and they work really well.  I also use a wet palette with all of my water-based acrylics, craft store brands as well as Andrea or Vallejo Model Color, Lifecolor, etc.  That keeps them thinned properly for my purposes, and consistently so.

My HL recently got a resupply of the small testors bottles- rack full.

I appreciate all the tips and discussion, folks. While my HL does have the standard, square-bottle Testors paints as well as a few in spray cans, it seems like the stock is gradually dwindling and is not being replenished. They do have some Vallejo Model Colors and I have used these for brush painting small stuff with great success. I will certainly try some of the craft paints now that I have an idea of the thinner type and ratio. Thanks so much. This is why I love this forum. 

Whenever it's possible I like to apply a primer for the craft paint to "bite" into.  I also seal each coat after the paint dries    Because they do chip easily or the tape that I use for masking will pull the paint up.

tjs

MCW enamels are superior to Model Master enamels. This paint is tough and sprays very well. They have a military line that is not as large as Model Master was but hopefully they will expand.

I sprayed my Seamew with gloss sea blue and was able to polish the paint to a smooth mirror gloss the next day. When using Model Master enamels I had to wait at least 5 days to polish the paint otherwise it would come off in a gummy mess. I’m very happy how MCW enamels work.

Just curious after reading all these endorsements of the craft paints, is a primer required beforehand?

I tried using some years ago because my mom had tubs full of them, but I found they were a bit delicate for my tastes.  I had applied directly to the bare plastic,  and thought they chipped and scratched off just from normal handling before sealing it, so I never gave them a 2nd try. 

I would love to find the recipe for success with them, as I love their price and bottle size.

My . 

I thin Vallejo paints with Distilled H2O.  I use Windex & Distilled H2O for cleanup. That goes for Air and Color.

I do the same with all the craft paints that I buy from Joanne Fabrics and other suppliers. I have never  had any trouble with that set-up either when brushing or spraying.

Jim 

Stay Safe.

While Tamiya is my go to acrylic, at times I've had great results with craft paints. Craft Smart acrylic from Michael's does a fine job as my sometimes paint, Apple Barrel is another, it might also be from Michael's.

They are quite a different consistency compared to Vallejo, Tamiya and the other hobby brands, they seem thicker and with a sort of creamy texture from the bottle. I find they do require lot's of thinning, I estimate at least 4 or 5 parts thinner to paint.

I always remove the top of any paint bottle and stir it completely with a Tamiya metal paddle, but whatever you can fit in the bottle opening will work. I avoid wood as it can leave particles, plastic sprue is also a good choice.

For thinning I use either distilled water and a little flow improver, or 71% Alcohol might work well too. Like in any case, test a bit mixed up to ensure compatibility.

One exception, I don't think they sand quite as well as Tamiya if it's needed, but still I find them very useful for some jobs like wheel wells, fuselage interiors, etc. Very inexpensive, I think most are under $2 for 2 oz and a really good value.

Cleanup is just the same as the mainstream acrylics, such as Tamiya, alcohol, lacquer thinner or acetone. I have not experienced any marked tendency to clog the AB interior works or needle tip, any more than the dedicated hobby acrylics.

But again I caution, always check to ensure compatibility with your thinning solution.

I've used the "classic" blue windshield washer fluid and I've also added a drop or two of flow improver to the paint.

tjs

My HL has the Vellejo Model Air as well as the standard Vellejo.  They also have some of the spray can Testors, like the clear overcoats.

Hi;

     I have to say I don't know. Our store MANAGER didn't have a clue either. He said he was taken by surprise when they stopped stocking Testors Glue in the bottles even!

  Oh! The suggestion for ANITA'S craft paints is a good one. It's easy to use and it dries with no streaks if you brush it!

Chemteacher

Great tip. What do you use to thin the craft paints ?

 

Vallejo Flow Improver and/or Thinner. 1:1 or as necessary to achieve desired consistency

Great tip. What do you use to thin the craft paints ?

EdGrune I agree with you about the craft paints at Hobby Lobby.  I've been using them off and on over the last few years but since retiring I'm using them even more because of their cost/value.  I've learned that a lot of modelers will dismiss these craft acrylics because they"re not "real" model paints but you can't argue with the results you can get.

tjs

Besides the small square Testor's enamels most Hobby Lobbys stock a small assortment of Vallejo Model Color paints.   Model Color handbrushes well and will smoothly airbrush with appropriate thinning.   I thin 3paint:1 thinner & spray at 12 to 15PSI.   I use Vallejo Flow Improver as my thinner.

But don't disregard the craft paint aisle.  The acrylic paints, particularly Anita's,  will thin & spray as well as designated "hobby" paints.   I've used several, especially for unique colors not in a hobby manufacturer's line.   I also like Anita's Dark Celery for zinc chromate interiors.  It is a bit greener and not as orange as the Testor's  ZnCRO4