rotating and sliding parts

Hello!

While I don't need to have all parts moving on my model, there are times when I find it at least handy. One thing are propellers - I always like to have them turning - it helps to save them from damage. It gives the prop blades a chance of turning instead of breaking, if you know what I mean. Plus at leas once, long time ago I had my pops trying to turn a prop that was non turning... You should have seen that roll my model made then... And my favourite solution here are the poly caps like the way Hasegawa does it - not only leaves the prop turning, but it is also removable and most importantly can be painted and detailed separately and added to the model as the last step - very handy.

Right now I'm working on a Cobra (1:72, Special Hobby) - and they mean to glue the main rotor in place - this kinda feels wrong to me, now I'm scratching my head to convert it. It would be best to not only have it turning, but also removable for transport - that could help prevent damage. Let's see what I can do.

Thanks for reading and have a nice day

Paweł

Another way to approach this for rotating parts is a little modification and adding brass rods as axles, and then you can use microminiature bearings.  I have found those as small as 1mm ID, and they're actual bearings and not just sleeves that call themselves that.  Poly caps that you can get for Gundam models also work really well, without using lubricants.  

I agree with the warnings about petroleum-based lubricants like machine oils on plastic, especially in the case of using them on parts made of clear polycarbonate.  The errors of that approach would show themselves in hours with tiny cracks and could even cause it to shatter.

Graphite powder (I use 5 micron graphite powder in a jar) not only makes a great lubricant, but also makes good gun smoke, as well as adding kind of a "clean metal" look to the edges of simulated metal parts to simulate wear between metal components that slide over each other, like the individual feathers of an afterburner cone.  Definitely a must-have in your toolkit.

 A cleaner way to apply graphite would be to decant into a small cup/basin and then rubit on with a sponge applicator. May keep the puff from adding weathering.

I'm with Armornut,...

Graphite powder is safe for plastic, but use it sparingly. ( it usually comes in a squeeze bottle, and if you have HULK hands like me one "puff" goes EVERYWHERE! )

ALSO: Labelle oil for plastic gears works well. Something I learned building model trains.

DO  N O T  USE BUTTER !!!!

Somebody suggested this to me 40 years ago..... and I'm still trying to clean that mess out of one of my locomotives !!!

And, as for vegetable oil,  it tends to grab any dust in the air. So after a few years, your model may have scale "dust bunnys" ... ( ask me how I know ...)

I respect all of your opinions, but I really hesitate getting anything petrol based near styrene. 

Bill

Tojo72

Once I finish a model I dont need to have any rotating or moving parts,it sits on its shelf,the less I touch it the less problems.Im not turning wheels,spinning propellers,rotatating turrets or opening doors and hatches.

 

Hi;

 Now this is a good question.The truth? The best way I have found is to do this. When you want to have moveable parts.Take the parts and make sure they fit well and there is NO binding. Then At Assembly take a Pindrop of tube glue or C.A. glue and carefully unite the parts. After that , then use the liquid glue.The Dried tube or C.A. act like a dam. As far as lubrication I use Model railroad Lubricants or that developed for R.C. Models.No Problems ever. 

KY Jelly, a water-based lubricant

Vegtable oil is safe and will not degrade the plastic over time like a petroleum might.

I remember reading this in the instructions of an old school model with operating parts. I think the motorized Lindberg M46 Patton tank.

Tojo72

Once I finish a model I dont need to have any rotating or moving parts,it sits on its shelf,the less I touch it the less problems.Im not turning wheels,spinning propellers,rotatating turrets or opening doors and hatches.

 

Once I finish a model I dont need to have any rotating or moving parts,it sits on its shelf,the less I touch it the less problems.Im not turning wheels,spinning propellers,rotatating turrets or opening doors and hatches.

 Be careful using petroleum products, it reduces over time and will distill out and soften surrounding plastic. Dry graphite might be a better solution as well as Don's suggestions. Unless your models are "played" with graphite won't wear down the contact points.

Regular machine oils like 3 in 1 are fine, as is butter, salad oil, cooking oil, liquid hand soap.

On problem with shafts and bearings is that the molding process often does not usually make round shafts nor round holes.  You may need to sand shafts round, and use the correct drill to round out bearings (holes).

Honestly speaking, try using a bit less glue. I know that sounds kind of simplistic, but the fact of the matter is that you can't apply any glue to the 'movable' parts, so use less so it will not seep by capillary action into the place you don't want it. Any place where two pieces are in close proximity will promote capillary action. thus, you have to either use less glue, or separate the parts more.

The alternative is, use a thicker glue at that point.