Trump 1/35 Chinook rear ramp observation. It can be made to retract (now w/pics).

HeavyArty wrote:

Looking at the instructions (steps # 23 and 32), it looks as though the upper portion of the rear ramp is designed to retract into the lower portion, just like the real thing.  Directions show a track on the lower portion and a similar track on the upper portion.  They don't show them going inside one another though.  Haven't built it yet, but it looks promising.   Any of the other Hook holders seee this too?

The problem with the instructions is that they don't indicate that the hatch should be inside the ramp if the ramp is depicted in the lowered position. Yes the hatch doesn't always retract into the ramp like it is supposed to when lowering the ramp (usually because of a problem with the sequence valve or when part of the chain and/or cable on the actuating assembly breaks.)

Step 31 on page 16 implies that the hatch should be in the closed position on the fuselage without the ramp, that would be a neat trick because the only support the hatch as is in the ramp. There are no connecting points for the hatch anywhere on the fuselage.

The only difference I see on page 17 is part B18 or B17. And the only differences between those parts is that one is "serated"(for lack of a better word) and the other isn't...I am assuming this is to depcit the slotted areas on the ramp where the ramp extensions were, the serated areas allowed the ramp extensions to lock in place, but allowed for them to be adjusted to allow for being positioned in different locations along the edge of the ramp to accomodate different widths of wheeled vehicles or other loads.

Jonathan Primm

Jon,

I got all the above.  I know the directions don't show it correctly, but from the way the parts are it looks like it can be built correctly with the retracted upper hatch and that it is able to slide in and out on the tracks in the kit.  I saw the two different ramp extension hinge strips too.  Which is more accurate for an A?  My guess is that the non-adjustable piece, B17, was the original design, and the adjustable strip, B18 was a later mod.  Any ideas?

I played around with the rear ramp a little while waiting for some parts on a 1/35 Vietnam UH-1H MedEvac I am building to dry.  I started testing to see what it would take to get the upper ramp to retract into the lower one.  It was actually pretty simple.  Trump provided part of the parts.  In step 23, you attach parts B23 to the upper portion.  In step 32, you attach parts D23 and D24 on the lower ramp.  These parts make up part of the track that the upper ramp retracts on.  By modifying them and adding some track inside, you can retract it just like the real thing.  I first positioned parts B23 so that they stuck over the lower edge of the upper hatch by about 1/4".  On the lower ramp is most of the work.  On parts D23 and D24 for the inner rails, trim them about half of the way back to the curved cross member, angling the ends at a 45 degree angle with the longer parts going toward the ramp deck (G3).  For the outer D23 and D24 pieces, they also get trimmed to a 45 degree angle with the longer part terminating almost at the edge of G3.  Next, I trimmed down the curved cross member to the height of parts D23 and D24 so it would not interfere and removed the tabs sticking up between the track made up by the D23 and D24 parts.  Lastly, I extended the tracks back with "T" shaped Plastruct beams and elevated them with 3 pieces of .040 sheet styrene as shims to raise them slightly above level.  You can see the results below.  A perfectly rectracting upper rear hatch. 

Hope it helps and good luck. 

I love this kit!!

You da Man!

Thanks!!

Nice job Gino!!!

What is your plans for the rear wheels??  Are you going to go with the duals are or you going to try the single wheel set up??

That Hook is going to be huge when completed!!

Should have mine late tomorrow!!!!!!!!! Oh boy!!!

Now, if only the ramp could be hinged to the fuselage so it could be raised and lowered.  That would be cool!!

You have the ol light bulb shineing over my head now.

Mark 

Actually, it will take up about as much space as a 1/48th scale B-17, B-24 or Lancaster... So if you have room enough for one of those, you should have room for this kit.

It will probably be easier to build the thing with dual wheels, the metal casting is superb and trying to make a single wheeled strut would be very hard as the struts are completely different.

I have only seen a few pics in the books of A's w/ single rear wheels in Nam.

Whats the story behind that anyways?

Papa-Echo-64 wrote:

I have only seen a few pics in the books of A's w/ single rear wheels in Nam. Whats the story behind that anyways?

Frank can probably shed more light on this issue than I can. The A models I worked on had all been retrofitted with the single wheeled aft strut.

If I am not mistaken, part of it was due to making the power steering more effective, (Yes, there is a steering knob in the cockpit that actuates the aft starboard strut to allow for steering... the left hand strut is not powered but will caster freely. Both struts are locked in place when the aircraft is brought to a hover) but I could be wrong.

HeavyArty wrote:

Can't be too difficult to scratch a new one, it is only a wheel strut.  I'll keep you posted.

True....but it will need to be able to take the kits weight and the extra strength for the setting the kit down at times.

I sure hope Trumpeter looks more closely at the differences between the A and D model Chinook before they release the new version.....if its not too late that iz.

Has anyone noticed that the kit has enough regular round port windows to do it correctly....not many A hooks had the bubble domes......I will use thin micro scope glass slides for mine....I hate styrene clear parts and avoid them when I can.

Hey guys!!!

Got my Hook today!!!!!!!    Wow!!!!   I love it!!!   It is going to look awsome when completed.    I going to add extra details where needed for that extra flare.     I made me a pair of rear single wheel struts today.   I used nails.    They were not hard to make. I just got a pair out of one of my 1/72 kits for referance.    A vise,hammer,file and hacksaw is all I needed to make them.    I am going to use 1/72 b-17 wheels for my Hook.   I tryed them on it and they are the perfect size for a later model A model Hook.  The wheels in the kit are to small.  Now if the tires were biggier than I think the hubs would work fine but oh well.   As long as one dosen't care that the wheels don't roll than the B-17 wheels will work great.

If  I knew how to post pix on here then I would post some of my rear struts that I made.

Mark

Gino,

Please show us some pics of Huey!!!

BTW

Nice work on the ramp. I havent seen the kits parts but I followed your explanations here and just wanna say - very impressive start you have there! PLS post more pics!!

)))

Andy

I trying to post a pic of my  Hook  rear struts.

Hope it works.   Heres the link http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f98tomcat861/rearstrut1.jpg

Sorry guys but I just can't figure out how to post my pix!!

Need help!!!!!!     I am signed up with photo bucket. Just can't figure out how to get my pix from there to here.   Sucks big time !!!

Mark

marke wrote:

Sorry guys but I just can't figure out how to post my pix!! Need help!!!!!!     I am signed up with photo bucket. Just can't figure out how to get my pix from there to here.   Sucks big time !!! Mark

When you download a photo to photobucket it should show up in an "Album" under the photo you will be given three options.

You want to post the "img" link. To do that highlight the entire address and right click and choose "copy"  then when you open your discussion line here right click again and choose "paste", make sure you have the link completely seperate from any other text. After you do that, preview your post and the photo(s) should be there, then you can go ahead an post your topic.

HTH

Jonathan Primm.