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So far here is the overall look of the front side of the building. I think it is beginning to look much better. Still lots to do, although it would be considered ready to go but I need to add details. Lots.
Charles King ----------------------- You may think you know...but you don't
As you can see, I already started on the figures. Took about 2 hours just trying to file up on all seams and get everything perfect on these two figures. These will be the insurgents. I have about four more of the US soldiers to do. - at least try to. Please keep in mind that figure painting is my weakest point.
These are the figures I am using. I was forced to start over with the USMC figures because I was not entirely happy with the results of the camo. But will post some shots when I think they are 'OK' to put up. The pickup in the pics below is the new MENG pickup truck, with the 'open doors' option. I am going to get another one for another build in the near future. Good clean kit.
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Impressive!
One thing I try and consider painting figures is the skin tones & colors are more important than details. Another is other than primer (I prefer red oxide for figures) all paint layers should be seen on the finished figure, this helps keep the sculpts crisp allowing for a 'wash & highlight' approach vrs. more advanced techniques.
TikingPlease keep in mind that figure painting is my weakest point.
Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com)
The choice of figure painters is oils, the long dry time allows for blending.
The easier route is to use enamels for the base coat and acrylics for recesses & shadows via a wash.
Paint the face sculpts to avoid a final flat spray, the flat clear can change the look of the 'skin'. For a base coat mix enamel 'flesh' color with red & a flat brown. After 24 hour cure a wash of acrylic red - brown will add shadows on the neck, eyes and nose. Use gravity to pool the wash in the lower surfaces by holding the figure upside down. Dab away quickly excess with a paper towel if required. Cheek, nose & jaw highlights are enamel mix mentioned above with less brown. Allow to cure and blend with a 'hot' enamel blend of 'flesh' & red, that is a mix thinned with primer. This step is tricky, one shot at getting the blending. Do NOT retouch with a brush as it will get to the base coat. If necessary allow to cure and try again.
Easy details? Eyebrows & lips can be colored with a pencil crayon. Whites of the eyes can be added with a wax crayon and color of eyes with a pencil crayon. Trim whites with a toothpick, less is more. A skin 'shine' and leather can be added by wiping a brush on your forehead and adding natural oil over the paint.
Thanks for a very detailed step by step.. Sounds complicated. Never worked with oils before and i am not sure if it is the right choice for beginners.
I think I am satisfied with the insurgents. I used what I had on hands, vallejo. Now I need a good MATT clear spray to tone the shine. Any recommendations? Not the best but I am still a novice at this figure painting venture.
Insurgent Figures:
Agreed that oils are not for beginners, the easier route is enamel base & acrylic washes.
Your figures look great! I like to avoid a flat clear over skin tones, you may notice it effects the look.
I just use Testors enamel model paints. The colors I mentioned are all I use in different ratios to keep it simple. Darker skin add more brown and so on. Also I keep the colors on a mirror or glass in separate globs and mix in the center, this way colors can be manipulated quick & easy.
Spray the flat clear coat (dull coat) and add shine to the skin like mentioned above. Next time try and use flat paints for the figures. For skin the flesh color is a gloss but I mix it with red and a flat military brown.
There is as many different approaches to figure painting as there are modeler's! My technique works for me and through trial and error everyone finds their favorite.
Sheppard Paine described in detail (How to Build Dioramas)his technique and yes the results were impressive yet he was painting figures faces on poor vintage sculpts. I take advantage of resin face sculpts being crisp and easier to paint realistically.
Thank you kindly. Btw, I am using flat flat paint. That is what i find strange. I am using Vallejo paints.
The shine maybe from the thinner you use? Sometimes paints mysteriously gloss, acrylics not so much. Not sure why other than try a different thinner. I use Isopropyl alcohol to thin acrylics but distilled water works good and has a slower drying time. I have never bought thinner specific for acrylics so I have no experience or advice on that.
You know you guys, I'm going to have to steal these notes for my personal file! lol. Thats some really good tips you all are throwing out there!! And your figures look awesome so far Tiking!
TikingThis build seems to be getting on slower than I had anticipated. Sorrt guys. I really want this to be my best.
Thanks for the comforting support.
Great Post!
Your styrofoam back drop is stunning. Great eyes for detail as noted here among other posters. This is a great series of posts for anyone doing any city type dioramas.
Nice job!
HB
Imagine a witty signature right .....here....
Thank you for your comment HB. I agree. Anyone can try this method on a budget. This was also my first try. Still a lot more to do though.
I have been working on the figures for some weeks now, on and off, when the time permits. It has not been easy as I have re-done camo paints many times over. I now have immense respect for figure builders. It is the most difficult form of modeling that I know of. Getting the right skin tone is still an issue for me, as well camo painting. But I will get there one way or the other. It will take time. I have read many articles and continue to study the different variations one can achieve. But I am not going to compete with figure builders just as long my figures do not look like a 3rd grader as painted them, I am fine.
So here is the results of my attempts at getting this camo painting job to look right. So far I am OK with the results after several weeks of trying to get it right. I still have four more USMC figures to do. More sweat and tears but the battle continues... I still have more details to add to the actual diorama.
Here are some scenes with the insurgents on the dio and some outside shots. Natural lighting is sooooo perfect for camera shots. Hope the overall scene is looking good. Still lots of details to be added but things seem to be progressing slowly. I had thought to be done with this dio but life keeps making way for other matters.
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Looks good so far. I've got a couple of books on figure painting and it seems like the skin tone issue that you are talking about is indeed the trickiest part. I've been wanting to add a crew member or an observing pilot here and there and have been afraid to because of my current figure painting skills but this thread has definitely served as an icebreaker for me. Right now I have a rather large selection of Model Master panits and most of those are acrylic. I may have to position a mechanic in one of my plane builds coming up.I'll probably be knocking on your door when I get to that point for a little guidance. Thanks for posting this thread Tiking.
My pleasure. As for the figure painting, my guidance won't be of any use as I am just a beginner as you are. But will see how far I come before throwing in the towel. ..lol
Hello!
The scene is looking very good already! I like it a lot.The figures are good, too, with your attitude it will be OK, I'm sure about it. Good luck with the rest of your project and have a nice day
Paweł
All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!
www.vietnam.net.pl
Thanks Pawel. Great encouraging words.
you certainly know how to take a good photo too, very convincing!
Building - WAH 64D
Thanks misty.
Looks good to me! I wouldn't worry too much about the figures, the clothing and uniforms look great and between the helmets and head scarves there isn't that much skin showing.
I may be crazy but I just love those black trash bags piled in the corner. All the various trash looks great but I just love how they came out.
"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen
Thanks Gamera. You saw the how-to explanation i wrote right?
Kinda skimming over things here at work - I'll sit down this weekend and read though everything more carefully. Thanks again for showing how you're doing this instead of just posting the finished product.
No worries. My pleasure.
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