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Dragon 1/72nd Ar 234B-2b Complete

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  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Dragon 1/72nd Ar 234B-2b Complete
Posted by Bish on Sunday, January 06, 2019 12:50 PM

I have been meaning to build an Ar 234 for a few years. It keeps getting on the build pile but then somthing else goes up and it goes back to the stash. This time it has finally made it to the bench.

The cockpit is rather nice as it is, i have added PE foot peddles but still have to add some instrument panels and wire up and fit the main IP as well as the seat.

The Eduard PE set i am useing includes hatches for the top of the camera bay and this is idal for the dio i want to do. But while the kit comes with cameras to be fitted in the fuselage, this are not sutable for what i want. The only pic i could find of the camera mounts was of a build of the 48th hase kit, i have no idea what that is based on. But it was the best i had so i scratch built one based on that. It doesn't need to be perfect but just to represent somthing there through the open hatch. For the cameras i have a set of resin Owl ones on order. But as these are not being fitted in, i can proceed without them.

With the wheel wells also fited, i could close up the fuselage.

Just a little clean up needed and finish off the pit before i put the 2 together.

'I am a Norfolk man, and i glory in being so'

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/72nd Ju 188A

                      Fine Molds 1/72nd Me 410

  • Member since
    August, 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Posted by Rambo on Sunday, January 06, 2019 2:30 PM
Going to be a really cool build Bish I'm sure you got a really great diorama planned.

Clint

  • Member since
    April, 2015
Posted by Mopar Madness on Sunday, January 06, 2019 5:00 PM

Watching this one.

Chad

God, Family, Models...

At the plate: 1/48 GWH Fw 189 A-1 Nachtjager

On deck: 1/48 Bronco IF-17

In the hole: Who knows!  

  • Member since
    November, 2003
  • From: Naples, FL
Posted by tempestjohnny on Sunday, January 06, 2019 5:00 PM
Watching x2

 

  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Towson MD
Posted by gregbale on Sunday, January 06, 2019 5:32 PM

I have the same kit deep in the stash, so this should be most enlightening. I, too, am anxious to see your diorama concept. Yes

Greg

 George Lewis:

"Every time you correct me on my grammar I love you a little fewer."
  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, January 07, 2019 2:27 AM

Cheers guys, hopefully the diorama will be a little different.

Greg, i rather like Dragon 72nd aircraft kits and this is rather nice. As you can see on the pic above i added the rear of the cockpit to the pit itself rather than attaching it to the fuselage as the instructions suggest. And i am glad i did as it does need a bit of sanding around the edge to get a fit and the wheel wells are a little tricky to fit with the undercarrage legs in place. But adding the legs later would be even more difficult as i tried dry fitting that.

'I am a Norfolk man, and i glory in being so'

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/72nd Ju 188A

                      Fine Molds 1/72nd Me 410

  • Member since
    May, 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Monday, January 07, 2019 10:53 AM

I look forward to what you will do with the kit Bish!

When DML issued that kit, they had a reputation of “looks good in the box, but does not build well”, which is somewhat deserved.  But hey they brought us modern Luftwaffe late war aircraft at a time when there was none.

I had started an Ar-234A conversion based on the same kit a while back.  I chose the 4-engined BMW version with the separate nacelles.  I narrowed the fuselage, added the well for the central skid, and made the engines. I got stuck on how to do the exhaust fairings so it got shelved. I also need to figure out how to vac a new narrow canopy.  Maybe I’ll wait 20 years and resurrect it like I am wont to do.

Actually, I can tackle those problems now.  I’ll dig the kit out from under the bed and post some pics for laughs.

  • Member since
    May, 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Monday, January 07, 2019 1:53 PM

Bish,

Since you are doing a recce version, you might want to take note of the infamous DML fit of the underfuselage camera bay panel.  This is a pic of my Ar-234B.  The panel is too narrow so I sawed it in half and shimmed it.  You will need to do it differently I imagine!

https://flic.kr/p/RWjecC] [/url]Arado-06 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

Here is the stock kit with the narrower "A" version.

https://flic.kr/p/RWjes7] [/url]Arado-01 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, January 07, 2019 2:19 PM

Thanks for the heads up on the panel, i'll lok at that now. Are you planning on doing that with closed gear doors or you going to try and fit the undrcarge in that way. I tried that before i glued thge bays in and gave up.

Thats some nice work on that conversion, would be nice to see that finished. So far i have built 5 Dragon aircraft and despite sme fit issues, which i haven't found to be to much, i like them. And of course, if you want these subjects, you don't have to much choice.

'I am a Norfolk man, and i glory in being so'

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/72nd Ju 188A

                      Fine Molds 1/72nd Me 410

  • Member since
    May, 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Monday, January 07, 2019 3:58 PM

Oops, I can't remember if I modified the main gear to be able to be slotted into the bays!  That was so long ago...  The intent was to have it on its legs, as I normally do not do in-flight models.

Here are two pics which show the narrowed fuselage and the skid bay.

https://flic.kr/p/2e5nzpH] [/url]Arado-02 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/2e5nz7t] [/url]Arafo-03 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

IIRC between the Ar-234A and B, the real thing was widened by nine inches, which works out to a whopping 1/8” in 1/72.  I'll tape the nacelles on the Ar-234A and post some pics to get the Blitz juices flowing.

BTW I just noticed on the kit box art, the pilot missed the bridge (Remagen?) by a really wide margin!

  • Member since
    May, 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Tuesday, January 08, 2019 4:10 PM

Bish,

Here are some pics of the Ar-234A V6.

https://flic.kr/p/RX95hs] [/url]Arado-07 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/2cGkz7g] [/url]Arado-08 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/2cGkyxF] [/url]Arado-10 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

Having a look now, I can see that the polyester putty on the nacelles is delaminating!  New nacelles are in order.  The canopy is really mucked up, so I probably should make a new vac-form "buck" out of a single blob of epoxy putty.  Lots of crummy handiwork in evidence!

The trolley is from DML's Arado E-377 Mistel, and will be suitably "backdated" to the configuration for the Ar-234A.

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, January 09, 2019 6:33 AM

Now that does look very nice G, you really have to get that finished. I was having a look at the V6 in my kagero referance book last night, you have caugfht it brilliantly. Would i be right in think you have engraved the tops of the wings above the outer engines, because that is very well done.

'I am a Norfolk man, and i glory in being so'

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/72nd Ju 188A

                      Fine Molds 1/72nd Me 410

  • Member since
    March, 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Wednesday, January 09, 2019 7:26 AM

Man you know I'm gonna be in on this one. I've been eyin' mine for the last month or so......

 

 

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, January 09, 2019 7:28 AM

Thanks Joe. Didn't you build a 48th one a while back and wire up the cockpit.

'I am a Norfolk man, and i glory in being so'

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/72nd Ju 188A

                      Fine Molds 1/72nd Me 410

  • Member since
    March, 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Wednesday, January 09, 2019 7:37 AM

Bish

Thanks Joe. Didn't you build a 48th one a while back and wire up the cockpit.

 

Yeah I'm about halfway through the build portion of it. It sits there right in front of me at all times.................and it's bugging me that I haven't finished it.

 

 

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, January 09, 2019 8:03 AM

Well, get to it then Big Smile

Your build actually made me realise how much is visible through all that glass and how much wiring is exposed. Not sure if yours is the same, but the main instrument panel on mine attaches to the front canopy section. And thanks to you Wink i am wiring up the whole IP and will have to try and feed the wires into the fuselage as i attach the front clear piece. There is a lot more in there than i had thought.

But its ok, i only have 4 more Dragon 234's to build after this one Crying

'I am a Norfolk man, and i glory in being so'

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/72nd Ju 188A

                      Fine Molds 1/72nd Me 410

  • Member since
    March, 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Wednesday, January 09, 2019 8:49 AM

Man I've gotta tell you, I took a break from aircraft because 1.) I like cars so dang much and 2.) I really felt that I needed to work on my painting and weathering so although I haven't been actually building aircraft for the last few years, I have been watching and learning.

 

 

  • Member since
    May, 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Wednesday, January 09, 2019 1:16 PM

Bish

Now that does look very nice G, you really have to get that finished. I was having a look at the V6 in my kagero referance book last night, you have caugfht it brilliantly. Would i be right in think you have engraved the tops of the wings above the outer engines, because that is very well done.

Thanks Bish!  Yeah I started to add panel lines on the wings to represent the V6.  I should get back on and finish it before a kit comes out!

There also was a DML Ar-234C under the bed...

  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, January 10, 2019 10:10 PM

These kits are pretty good and you are moving briskly thru this build. I can hardly wait to see another of your display bases. 

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, January 11, 2019 2:07 AM

Thanks PJ, i am hoping to get the primer on and start painting this weekend. Just got to finish off the IP and add the clear parts.

'I am a Norfolk man, and i glory in being so'

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/72nd Ju 188A

                      Fine Molds 1/72nd Me 410

  • Member since
    May, 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Friday, January 11, 2019 4:43 AM

Bish,

Don’t forget the Ar-234 had the canopy framing on the inside of the Perspex, with only the fasteners on the outside.

It’s a difficult look to achieve.  I wonder how Zoukei Mura will handle this in their announced 1/32 kit?  We’ll have to wait 4-5 years to find out, given their pace of development.

But best of luck for your build!

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, January 11, 2019 5:32 AM

Ye, i was looking at that. Dragon give a seperate colour for the frame and it seems they have taken it from the one in the US. I have the Eduard mask set, but i haven't opened it yet. I am thinking about useing that on the inside, and spraying the canopy that way before fitting and then mask the whole of the outside off. I will have a look at that tonight.

The main problem i can see is the thickness of the kit canopy. The other option might be to spray the outside then possable give the whole canopy a coat of future so the frame has the same shiny look as the clear parts.

'I am a Norfolk man, and i glory in being so'

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/72nd Ju 188A

                      Fine Molds 1/72nd Me 410

  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Towson MD
Posted by gregbale on Friday, January 11, 2019 7:02 AM

Bish
The main problem i can see is the thickness of the kit canopy. The other option might be to spray the outside then possable give the whole canopy a coat of future so the frame has the same shiny look as the clear parts.

That's the same strategy I have often contemplated. I'll be curious to see it, if you decide to go that way.Yes

Great work so far, really enjoying it!

Greg

 George Lewis:

"Every time you correct me on my grammar I love you a little fewer."
  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, January 11, 2019 7:11 AM

gregbale

 

 
Bish
The main problem i can see is the thickness of the kit canopy. The other option might be to spray the outside then possable give the whole canopy a coat of future so the frame has the same shiny look as the clear parts.

 

That's the same strategy I have often contemplated. I'll be curious to see it, if you decide to go that way.Yes

Great work so far, really enjoying it!

 

The more i think on it, the more i think that might be the way to do it. Other than the thickness, trying to apply papers masks designed for the ouytside on the inside will be tricky as well. The curves will go the wrong way and if my understanding of maths is right, the clear panels will be smaller inside than out.

I'll have a good look at the canopy tonight and go from there.

'I am a Norfolk man, and i glory in being so'

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/72nd Ju 188A

                      Fine Molds 1/72nd Me 410

  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Friday, January 11, 2019 8:41 AM

Bish

 

 
gregbale

 

 
Bish
The main problem i can see is the thickness of the kit canopy. The other option might be to spray the outside then possable give the whole canopy a coat of future so the frame has the same shiny look as the clear parts.

 

That's the same strategy I have often contemplated. I'll be curious to see it, if you decide to go that way.Yes

Great work so far, really enjoying it!

 

 

 

The more i think on it, the more i think that might be the way to do it. Other than the thickness, trying to apply papers masks designed for the ouytside on the inside will be tricky as well. The curves will go the wrong way and if my understanding of maths is right, the clear panels will be smaller inside than out.

I'll have a good look at the canopy tonight and go from there.

 

Masking on the outside is the easier way to go but even after applying gloss, you may have a slight raised edge on the paint showing it as an exterior frame. If you don't care about that then the outside method is a go.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, January 11, 2019 9:06 AM

plasticjunkie

 

 
Bish

 

 
gregbale

 

 
Bish
The main problem i can see is the thickness of the kit canopy. The other option might be to spray the outside then possable give the whole canopy a coat of future so the frame has the same shiny look as the clear parts.

 

That's the same strategy I have often contemplated. I'll be curious to see it, if you decide to go that way.Yes

Great work so far, really enjoying it!

 

 

 

The more i think on it, the more i think that might be the way to do it. Other than the thickness, trying to apply papers masks designed for the ouytside on the inside will be tricky as well. The curves will go the wrong way and if my understanding of maths is right, the clear panels will be smaller inside than out.

I'll have a good look at the canopy tonight and go from there.

 

 

 

Masking on the outside is the easier way to go but even after applying gloss, you may have a slight raised edge on the paint showing it as an exterior frame. If you don't care about that then the outside method is a go.

 

Good point. And i had not thought about the frame haveing a raised edge over the clear parts when the clear parts should sit on top of the frame.

'I am a Norfolk man, and i glory in being so'

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/72nd Ju 188A

                      Fine Molds 1/72nd Me 410

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, January 13, 2019 2:50 PM

So, after giving the framing some thought i decided to go for plan B. The canopy framing is on the outside on the kit pieces, but fortunatly it just very fine raised lines. So i masked as normal and aplied a coat of black primer and left it at that to avoid a build up of paint. Once dry and with masks removed, i dipped the clear pieces in future 3 times, allowing to dry each time. This was i hoped the framing would have the same shiny look as the clear pieces and it might also level it out. Once that was done, time to get the clear parts fitted.

The front piece was first with the IP in place. The wiring i added did make the fit a bit tricky and it did put the IP, which is only attached by a piece of PE with 2 anchor points on the canopy, out of place slightly, but nothing i am to worried about.

I had to use a bar clamp to keep the front in place while it dried and theres a bit of white glue to clean up. Once that was set, i added the top piece.

In the close up you can see the raised lines of the canopy framing, of clourse to the naked eye they are not that apparent. I do have 4 more Dragon 234's of different variants in the stash. And i have some ideas on how to do things different next tie, especially for the wiring and canopy.

And yes, i have missed off the rear view periscope in my haste to fit the canopy. So i am in the process of fixing that error.

'I am a Norfolk man, and i glory in being so'

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/72nd Ju 188A

                      Fine Molds 1/72nd Me 410

  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Towson MD
Posted by gregbale on Sunday, January 13, 2019 3:48 PM

Bish
So, after giving the framing some thought i decided to go for plan B. The canopy framing is on the outside on the kit pieces, but fortunatly it just very fine raised lines. So i masked as normal and aplied a coat of black primer and left it at that to avoid a build up of paint. Once dry and with masks removed, i dipped the clear pieces in future 3 times, allowing to dry each time. This was i hoped the framing would have the same shiny look as the clear pieces and it might also level it out. Once that was done, time to get the clear parts fitted.

The 'glass' really looks good, Bish. Looks like you picked the best route!

Onward and upward....

Greg

 George Lewis:

"Every time you correct me on my grammar I love you a little fewer."
  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Sunday, January 13, 2019 11:45 PM

looks good and no one will know unless you spill the beans.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    August, 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Posted by Rambo on Monday, January 14, 2019 12:06 AM
That's great Bish the glass came out perfect at least to me it did.

Clint

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