newbie needs help!

There are several good zero kits in 1/48th scale out there. Any would be good to start with. As for an air brush , I have three. An aztec, a binks wren, and a pasche. The pasche is the best but the most expensive. The aztec I do not like. The binks was the one I started with and still use it. For a beginner I would chose the binks. Its a singel action typy easy to use and doesnt cost that much. As you say this hobby is fun. Thats why I build um. Each kit is a learning experiance for me and I have been building for 35 years. I say build the 1/32nd zero and have fun.

Wow, nice gift.

I think you're right on to get some smaller scale kits and practice your skills. Not because there's anything wrong with jumping into the BIG kit, but because it will get you building more models and hopefully you'll become a lifer like the rest of us!! You'll find lots of hints and tips in these forums, so do some searches and/or ask specific questions. My suggestion is to 'dive-in' to some smaller kits and find out where your stumbling points are. Once you hit them, ask away and I'm sure you'll receive lots of help! There's also a good 'guide' on the home page of this web site. Go to http://www.finescale.com/fsm/html/TheMagazine/ScaleModelingGuides/ScaleModelingGuides.asp and there is a good general aircraft building guide that will likely answer most of your basic questions.

As for airbrushes, they definitely can improve the look of a finished model. However, I find that the brand isn't as important as the time you spend with it. There are definitely higher and lower quality airbrushes, but the most important thing is to spend lots of practice time understanding what happens when you change the pressure or paint consistency. Oh, and expect to spend some more dough on a good quality compressor and possibly a spray booth (you might be able to make one yourself if your fairly handy.)

M.

You are wise to practice before you tackle the Tamiya 1/32 Zero. That kit is a masterpiece, but really not intended for a beginner. Tamiya has a decent kit of the Zero in 1/48 scale. It is one of their older releases and not up to current standards but a pretty easy build and not too expensive. The Hasegawa Zero kits in 1/48 are the best in 1/48 and closer to the 1/32 Tamiya in quality, but are more expensive. An airbrush is an absolute must have if you are going to build aircraft models. I highly recommend the Paasche H model. This is a single action gravity feed model that is easy to use and easy to clean after use. I have several airbrushes, but I use the Paasche H 90% of the time. You will also need a compressor, preferably one with a pressure tank for constant regulated air flow. The piston type are less expensive but don't offer the control needed for quality work. THis gets expensive (about $300 for airbrush and compressor ) but is worthwhile if you are going to persue the hobby on a continuing basis. There are a lot of books on modeling basics as well as magazine articles and on-line forums. Best way to learn is to start buiding. Good Luck and welcome to the hobby!

Rather than a compressor, you can just get an air tank and a regulator - about $30. Yeah, you have to schlep the tank to the gas station to refill it, but you're buying gas anyway.

Hi Shaun - That sure is a nice kit you have! I really cannot offer any advice over and above the fine advice you've already been offered above. I will just tell you that I use a Paasche H airbrush. I believe it's the cheapest in the Paasche line. It's a single action that's very simple in design. Over the years I've gotten so well practiced with it that I can do anything the more expensive airbrushes can do. With a little patience, I'm sure you'll do very well.

Regards,

Pat

Shaun,
I can only echo the sentiments of my fellow modelers. I returned to hobby about 5 years ago myself. For the first year I didn't have an airbrush, but after I bought one, I wished I had done it sooner. It is definately a wise investment. I bought a Badger 150 dual action, I have been very happy with it. It did however require a lot of practice, and I am still learning and discovering new techniques (usually by accident).

I know buying an air brush can be expensive, and even more so if you need a compressor, then add $20 to $40 more for a pressure requlator (don't rely on the regulator on the compressor, and if you set your compressor at 15 lbs it will run constantly) and water seperator. But these one time investments will make all of the hard prep work involved in modeling worth the effort. Welcome Back!!

Guys,

I'm confused by all those types of compressors you guys are talking about. Too many brands and names! Frankly, I don't know what to look for in all those features different compressors have. Is there a comparison chart for different pumps and compressors? Keep in mind I'm a beginner, I'd like to have a good all around pump and capable compressor. They will still serve me well when my skills are improving(so they won't be out grown), and yet they won't drain my checking account. Right now, I 'm leaning towards a Paasche H airbrush since a couple of guys have recommended it.

Also, Corrie mentioned about an air tank and a regulator - about $30! Very cool. I'm wondering the pros and cons between the air tank/regulator and the compressor. The air tank/regulator approach seems to be very economical. I'm sure it also has some obivious drawbacks, otherwise people wouldn't be using compressors, right?

Shaun

btw, just printed out the Guide in PDF format. It's very informative! Thanks, mkish.

I did the air tank/compressor thing for many years when I was a poor middle-school and high-school student, works great for $30 or so bucks. I found an old compressor from my Grandfather's old bowling alley (circa 1930)s and used that to fill'er up! In fact, you can buy cheap compressors used for filling up your car's tires for around another $30.

I still have this tank and regulator sitting around, heck I'd give it to you if I didn't have to ship it!

I own a compressor with storage tank today (primarily for my Bostitch nail gun)

Some other tips for beginners I wrote for a returning modeler in another forum:

a few bits of advice:

Paints:
I use Testor's Model Master for airbrushing and some hand brushing. They airbrush well when thinned and the colors are accurate. I use the 2oz squeeze bottle craft-store acrylics for a lot of hand painting (figures, cockpit interiors, etc). They're cheap and dry fast.

Adhesives:
For assembly I use liquid cement, the kind you brush on. It's not so much an adhesive as it is a welder of the plastic parts. FSM has had a lot of articles in the past on how to use this stuff. I never use tube glue, althought some prefer it for stronger bonds. The liquid cement when applied right fills seams and makes a great bond. Hold the two peices lightly together, brush the cement on, gentely squeeze the parts together and then hold or clamp tightly. The plastic will melt and just barely squeeze out of the seam. Trim away the excess, lightly sand and whala!

I use superglue in those .07 oz tubes as an alternative adhesive and gap filler. It's fairly cheap, about $1 per tube and I use about one per model. I will often reinforce joints (like the fusalage seam) from the inside with superglue.

Use standard Elmers white glue for applying clear parts like canopies.

Accesories:

Superglue per above fills small gaps and sands easily. I also use a little Squadron green or White putty for larger gaps.

A hobby knife, X-Acto with #11 blades. Also a sprue cutter to cut parts from the sprue. Tweezers, cottong swabs (the kind you use for cleaning out your ears for whiping small stuff away). Paper towels, Sandpaper in finer grits, I use a green nylon Scotch dish claning pad for a lot of medium-fine sanding.

Other stuff- Future Acrylic Floor wax- the best gloss clear coat you can buy. Dip your clear parts in it. Spray a coat before decalling. Decal Setting Solution (Microscale). Rubbing Alchohol for whiping down your model before airbrushing and thinning paints.

I keep bottles and bottle-caps that one would normally throw away for mixing paint and stuff.

Kits:
As I said, I grew up with the 148th Monogram kits. They are great bang for the buck but do suffer from raised panel lines and frequently poor fit. I still build them (and they've gotten bettter) but my tastes have become a little more refined for Hasegawa and Tamyia. They cost more but are beutifullly thought out and engineered kits.

I hope this helps. These are just a few items off the top of my head.

By the way, I want to second (or is it 3rd) the motion of using the Pashe H single-action airbrush. Simple enough for beginniners and good enough for the experts. It has few parts which makes it easy to maintain. Cleanliness of your airbrush is of prime importance.

Shaun, some basic compressor info:

1. The compressor - this is the device that generates the airflow. There are several different kinds and from my perspective the most important thing is the 'noise' it makes. There are piston-types, diaphram types, and others that I'm not familiar with, but basically, they all pump air. There are big ones and small ones, but the smaller ones tend to be what most hobby people use (they are also less expensive).

2. The storage tank - some compressors don't have this, but my feeling is that it is a must. Lots of the 'hardware store' variety compressors that are used on construction sites usually have a compressor and tank complete as one unit. The tank basically stores the pressurized air so that the compressor does not have to work all the time. As mentioned above, you can just buy a 'tank' and connect it to your airbrush. The problem here is that you need to keep filling the tank somehow. The most common way is to use a 'compressor' (ie. #1 above!!), but you can also take the tank down to a gas station and fill it with the air hose that they usually have there (for filling car tires). Another cheap alternative is to get one of those small emergency air compressors meant for filling car tires on the side of the road. They usually connect to a cigarette lighter (12V) and will crank out lots of pressure, but at a fairly slow pace.

#3 A regulator (and gauge) - this is the device that controls how much air is released from the tank to your airbrush. If you were just to hook up the airbrush, it would spray at whatever pressure was in the tank!! (which could be very high, or very low.) Whatever the case, you want to be able to adjust this output pressure and the regulator is what does that. It usually has a gauge on it to tell you the air pressure it is set at. There is usually a knob of some sort that can be turned to adjust the pressure upwords or downwards.

#4 A moisture trap - this is also a must because as air gets pressurized and de-pressurized it tends to condense the water vapour into liquid. Sometimes this collects in the tank and can come thorugh the regulator. Water in the air line will contaminate the paint and cause all sorts of nasty things that you do not want. Depending the the type of compressor you have, there may also be 'oil' in the air line that the moisture trap will also remove.


So, that said here are the options:
a. get a small hobby compressor - this will likely not have a storage tank and will run constantly. I have never used one like this so I'm not really sure how they work. Likely a $50-100 option.
b. get a tank and fill it at a gas station - this is probably the cheapest, but depending on how much you use your airbrush, you'll need to keep filling the tank. You'll also want a regulator to control the air volume output. Likely a <$50 option.
c. get a tank and a small hobby/emergency compressor - this way, you can fill the tank with the compressor whenever it gets low on air. You'll need a regulator for this too. Likely a $50-100 option
d. buy a purpose built compressor/tank combination - likely the most expensive, but it will have everything you need with the possible exception of a moisture trap. There's lots of options here and the range of $ is pretty wide. You can get a nice small compressor from Sears or another hardware-type place for $100-200. Generally these compressors aren't really that 'quiet'. If you need 'quiet' then you have to look at other options, likely specific hobby compressors.
e. get a CO2 tank and have it filled at a welding gas supplier. These tanks are the most expensive, but do not have a compressor. They are filled with CO2 gas by a supplier to very high pressures. They usually come with a regulator to turn the pressure down. The advantage of these is that the CO2 tanks last a long time and the air does not need a moisture trap. There is not compressor, so therefore no noise. Depending on how often you use compressed air, you'll likely have to have it filled once or twice per year. You'll have to buy the tank to begin with (rather expensive), but then you just pay for the refills (very cheap).

That's alot of info, so I'll let you digest and invite others to also offer advise.

M.

Dear Shaun - welcome back to hobby ! I think you can try with cheap Arii or Hasegawa kits - they are good enough (and cheap enough) to build and I'm sure you will have pleasure making them. I think, that for building such a big scale planes like 1/32 Zero, having an airbrush is essential. And from my point of view it doesn't matter what kind of airbrush you will buy - I begun with an old and rather tricky russian one ("spraygun") - and for a long time I didn't need better one. And if you want to have a really quiet compressor, you can make it by yourself using an old refrigerator device - the plan how to do it you can find here: http://www.modelarstwo.org.pl/technika/akcesoria/sprezarka2/index.html. Unfortunately the text is in Polish, but if you would try, I think, I could help you with translation ! Aleksander

Welcome back to modeling. I have three pieces of advice. 1. Look at as many completed models as you can. Even new guys know what looks good and what doesn't. 2. Hook up with a club and talk to other modelers. Ask your club pals how they do things, what works and what doesn't. 3. Build as many models as you can. Nothing beats hands-on experience. Sometimes even old pros are intimidated by the complex new kits, try something cheaper and less demanding. Monogram and Revell have some good values that aren't too tricky and build into decent replicas.

Airbrushes!!! You could spend a lifetime researching airbrushes, trying different ones and still searching for the best combination. The key to airbrushing is practice, practice and practice. The difference in models between using an airbrush and not using an airbrush is the same difference between lightening and the lightening bug. If you mean business, you'll get one and learn how to use it.

Tom