Finished....1/48 Hasegawa Messerschmitt BF 109 G-2 (Work in Progress)

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Finished....1/48 Hasegawa Messerschmitt BF 109 G-2 (Work in Progress)

  • Nathan T

    Reasoned

    It also occurred to me when I re-read your original post about the panels not fitting well on the real 109 that many inexperienced modelers sand the joint smooth on the top of the fuselage and do not rescribe the panel line that runs the length.

    I also end up with a little gap at the top of the cowling panels, so I use a small styrene strip and scribe some lines in it and leave it slightly raised up to represent a hinge.

    That's a neat idea.Idea

    Science is the pursiut of knowledge, faith is the pursuit of wisdom.  Peace be with you.

    On the Tarmac: 1/48 Revell Ju 87D

    In the Hanger: Perhaps a bunch of Revellogram kits

  • That's a great idea Nathan...and nice 109.  How did you drill out those small scoops.  That looks great!  I was scratching my head trying to figure out how to do this without loosing them to the floor forever (another "nice job" Hasegawa), so I just painted the front black.  Reference the cowl, I remedied this by using styrene "tabs" glued from the underside for attachment points.  I then glued the two top pieces together at the said tabs and let it dry. The seam itself never touched the glue.  This way I preserved the hinge detail on top (darn...I should have snapped a picture). I think it worked fairly well but what a lousy fit and design.

    Anyways, I got a little bit more work done.  I scribed in the top spine and bottom fuselage panel lines using Dymo tape and a Squadron scribe tool (which is getting dull) then pre-shaded the all panel lines with XF-1.  For the areas that are supposed to be RLM 04 yellow, I cut XF-3 Yellow with a touch of XF-7 Red to brighten it up a bit.  Truthfully, I cant tell the difference between RLM 02 yellow or regular yellow so I just eyeballed it.  For all I know there isn't a difference other than the snazzy name....lol. 

    If your one of the people who have trouble airbrushing yellow....follow these instructions with these ingredients:

    1.  Take Tamiya XF-2 Flat White and thin it with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol.  Get the consistency to thick milk.  Do not use any other thinner.  Forget Tamiya X-20, their lacquer thinner, Mr. Gunze leveler or any other thinner for this purpose.  Spray the white first and let it dry (few minutes). 

    2.  Thin the yellow mixture the same way as the white and spray it.  I usually use about 15 or 20 psi and spray several light coats until you get the look you're after.   Still transparent?...add more yellow. 

    The trick is that the white applied first helps gives the follow up yellow depth and the alcohol dries so quick the paint doesn't have time to build up.  Its as simple as that...end of debate..lol.  Kidding aside, this works great for me.  I recently did a P-47N with a yellow tail using this very method and I had zero trouble. 

    Anyways, I sprayed in the lower cowl, lower wing tips, then the fuselage band for Rall's JG 52 bird. 

    That's where I'm at so far, I hope to start on the RLM 74, 75, and 76 soon.  I'll be using Gunze Aqueous for the 74 and 75 which I think are the best for these colors to my eye. 

    Joe

     

    "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

  • You're a machine Joe!  Yeah yellow in the AB is a PIA (at least for me), that's a good solution but I use enamels so a variation is in order.  I did try white primer under it this time which helped a lot.  I think RLM 02 is a little darker than the standard "yellow", at least to my eyes but at the end of the day it won't matter if there is nothing to compare it to.

    Science is the pursiut of knowledge, faith is the pursuit of wisdom.  Peace be with you.

    On the Tarmac: 1/48 Revell Ju 87D

    In the Hanger: Perhaps a bunch of Revellogram kits

  • I think that yellows looks pretty bright and rich, I like it. Will be 'borrowing' this method on my current build Joe! Moving this one right along!

    Eric

     

  • Joe, I drilled out those scoops after I cemented them to the cowling using a small drill bit to start, then oblonged them out with an exacto blade.

     

  • Thanks Reasoned.  Nathan, I never thought of that.  I suspected Dremel.  I had a paint-a-thon last night.   I got the RLM 76 down with the Tamiya's recommendation of XF-2+XF-23 and then XF-66.  I of course altered this till it matched an old Model Master bottle I have.  I then sprayed the Gunze RLM 75.  I think I figured out Gunze Aqueous.  It has to be sprayed thicker than Tamiya paints and at a slightly higher psi (about 15 psi), otherwise, its goes on transparent.  I cut it with Tamiya X-20 thinner and just kept adding more paint until it I got Tamiya-like coverage.  I then taped off the splinter scheme and sprayed the RLM 74.  All colors received condensation streaks by lightening the paint with XF-2 Flat White.  In lieu of using the kit decals, I found Aeromaster sheet 48-461 on E-bay which has Rall's G-2 markings.  Unfortunately I'm still waiting for them to arrive so I pulled up the profile online to paint the scheme (I have no patience).  I don't like Hasegawa decal grief, so I use Aeromaster, Eagle Strike, Superscale or Sky whenever possible.  I secured the slats, flaps and rear radiator doors with strategically placed blue tac pre-paint and once complete, I premanently secured them with Tenax.   

    I decided the yellow was too lemon-like, therefore, I added more red and shaded it in on the center of the panels that are yellow.  I like the effect.  The model got a post shading once the scheme was down.

    I suppose I'll work on the other bits while I wait for the decals. 

    Joe      

     

    "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

  • Hi Joe,

    Very nice!  I am a big fan of your builds and they really motivate me to get working on mine and improve my skill level.

    Allen

    ButcherbirdBadgesmall_zps1d50c6bb1944 GB

  • Thanks Allen for the kind words.  I'm in for an update.  The decals came yesterday so I was inspired to get some more work done.  I gave the G-2 a couple of coats of Alclad Clear Gloss and while I waited for it to dry, I turned my attention to the canopy masking.  I've  been spoiled lately with the pre cut canopy masks that the Eduard Profipack kits have supplied (Hellcat, Spitfire....).  Since I hate masking canopies, I'm a huge fan of these.  These are a tad above sliced bread to me o the "best thing since" scale.  Unfortunately I couldn't find one for the G-2, so I had to go "old school" and mask it myself (Maybe the others would have worked but I decided not to risk it).  Out came the Tamiya tape, fresh #11 Exactos, and the mirror.  I suppose I needed this skill check to keep me honest.     

    Aeromaster sheet #48-461 Augsburg Eagles Part IV provided markings for Rall's G-2.  These were dated 1996, but still went down without issue under Micro Sol.   I am a big fan of their products and have never had any noteworthy issues with their decals.  The Aeromaster sheet indicated the spinner was all RLM 70, however, the kit profile sheet said it was one third white.  I don't know which was correct, possibly both at different times, so I just went with the white version which just looks more interesting. 

    It shouldn't be too long now..

    Joe 

     

     

     

     

    "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

  • Nothing starts the morning off right like clicking on the a/c forum and seeing an update to one of your WIP's Joe! I love how this one is turning out. I have no G models in the stash which is a problem I need to rectify soon! Very nice sir!!

    Eric

     

  • Fantastic Joe, good call with the yellow.

    Science is the pursiut of knowledge, faith is the pursuit of wisdom.  Peace be with you.

    On the Tarmac: 1/48 Revell Ju 87D

    In the Hanger: Perhaps a bunch of Revellogram kits

  • I seem to have missed this one. This is one sweet looking 109. The pit is amazing. And loving the paint scheme.

      

  • Nice looker Joe, paint and mottle look very realistic. Eduard offers the masks in the 109F pack. Took me a while to figure that out but when I purchased a set for an F-4, the ones for the G-2 clear parts are in there too. And when you build a G-14 with the Erla canopy, you have to buy a set for a G-6, as well as a K-4 if your lazy like me.

     

  • lawdog114

    I turned my attention to the canopy masking.  I've  been spoiled lately with the pre cut canopy masks that the Eduard Profipack kits have supplied (Hellcat, Spitfire....).  Since I hate masking canopies, I'm a huge fan of these.  These are a tad above sliced bread to me o the "best thing since" scale.  Unfortunately I couldn't find one for the G-2, so I had to go "old school" and mask it myself (Maybe the others would have worked but I decided not to risk it).  Out came the Tamiya tape, fresh #11 Exactos, and the mirror.  I suppose I needed this skill check to keep me honest.     

     

    Yeah i'm with you on canopy masking and cheating by using pre-cut masks.  That's why I can't wait for my next bubble top! Smile

    Science is the pursiut of knowledge, faith is the pursuit of wisdom.  Peace be with you.

    On the Tarmac: 1/48 Revell Ju 87D

    In the Hanger: Perhaps a bunch of Revellogram kits

  • im with you about the canopy masking. i use eduard mask on all my builds. I think i only masked one canopy my self which was a ki-61 canopy. i used glad's press N seal. works extremely well. alclad didn't attack it all. as for the G2 canopy, you may be able to use another eduard mask. I had to use a K14 mask on my 48scale G-10 canopy. only G-10 mask they had was for the 32nd kit. hope this helps. awesome work btw!!!

    tamiya 1/48 P-47D $25 + shipping

    tamiya 1/48 mosquito $20+ shipping

    hobby boss 1/48 F-105G. wings and fuselage cut from sprue. $40+ shipping. 

  • I'm gonna call her done.  To recap, its the 1/48 scale Hasegawa Bf 109 G-2, done up in Gunther Rall's JG52 mount on the Russian front in the fall of 1942.  Rall was the third leading ace of all time behind Hartmann and Barkhorn with 275 kills.  I used Aeromaster sheet 48-461 with Rall's markings and a True Details cockpit.  I utilized Gunze Aqueous for the RLM 74 and 75 then I custom mixed my own RLM 76 with Tamiya paint.  The figure is from the Hasgawa Pilot set.  These are somewhat of a disappointment because they just aren't very well detailed. 

    I have mixed feelings about the kit.  For one, the clear pieces were bagged with the sprues and mine were scratched up pretty good.  I was able to polish some of it out with Novus.  Also, the engine panel fit irritated me a bit.  I got it to look passable, but it still bugs me a bit.  I have taken solace in that these didn't fit perfect on the real aircraft.  The design here is much better on the later G models.  Other than these, it was a fun build.  It's by no means a contest winner, but it was a fun build.  Thanks for following this thread and comments are welcome.

    Joe

     

     

     

     

    "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"