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Revell 1:48 Stearman PT-17 Build

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  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by ww2psycho on Thursday, April 10, 2014 10:58 PM

Great work! I must ask what are you using for the yellow? I'm doing the all yellow Navy.

  • Member since
    June 2004
  • From: 29° 58' N 95° 21' W
Posted by seasick on Thursday, April 10, 2014 11:08 PM

That's a great build, like things that are not gray all over. Had a brain freeze when I saw PT-17, kept thinking about an ELCO PT boat.  

Chasing the ultimate build.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Friday, April 11, 2014 12:00 AM

AlanF

Then a decal attempt on the rudder. The kit decals look good but they are way too thick and almost impervious to any kind of setting solution. They just won't conform to the rudder detail and this was after multiple Solvaset applications. This kit cries out for some aftermarket decals. 

Alan, that's odd, I had no trouble at all using Microscale Solvaset and Microsol on my rudder decal.  You must not have been holding your mouth just right.Surprise

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, April 11, 2014 3:27 AM
Don Stauffer

ww2psycho

When did this kit first come out?

I'm pretty sure this is NOT a repop, but a new kit, with their new molding technology.

This is indeed a new kit and was just released a few weeks ago. All new molds, etc. The only other 1/48 Stearman out there is the Lindberg kit from 1966.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Friday, April 11, 2014 7:21 AM

Yep, this is a brand new mold. Here's a great review: modelingmadness.com/.../5264.htm

That's unusual that Solvaset didn't work on these decals as it's very strong.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Rockford, IL
Posted by AlanF on Friday, April 11, 2014 7:59 AM
ww2psycho

Great work! I must ask what are you using for the yellow? I'm doing the all yellow Navy.

I'm doing a base coat in Tamiya Flat Yellow (XF-3) as sort of a "primer" and then using Tamiya Lemon Yellow (X-8) Gloss on top. If you use the X-8 directly over the white plastic it gives a a weird transparent-like look. The flat yellow takes care of that problem.
  • Member since
    November 2006
Posted by Bearcat57 on Friday, April 11, 2014 1:26 PM
Well I'm really going to have to get on the stick and get that MiG-29 off the bench now. I just caved and ordered this thing...dam!

One lament I have though. On the Yellow Peril option I wish they would've provided markings for the more colorful version vs. the rather monotonous all yellow. As has been previously stated, this model cries out for some aftermarket decals
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, April 11, 2014 4:26 PM

Found a really good cockpit shot using Google image search;

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Friday, April 11, 2014 8:59 PM

Nice picture, Don.  It clearly shows the birdcage of aluminum hat section that gives the Stearman it's rounded shape in chromate, and the fabric behind it.  Looks like ceconite or something like that, a little more blue toned white than cotton fabric would be in WW II.  The other thing of note is that the pad of foam rubber is missing from the instrument panel.  It was 1 1/2 inches thick or so, but deteriorated rapidly.  I've only seen remnants of it on original parts but in WW II with a cloth helmet it was the crash pad for the noggin.  

I think the rudder heel panels (clumsy wording but you get the drift I hope) are too far out and too narrow maybe in the kit.  They were also sometimes varnished wood on Stearmans. They should line up with the rudder pedals, which are manfully wide apart compared to most light planes.

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Saturday, April 12, 2014 2:46 PM

Just snagged mine from Hobby Lobby. It came out to $10.19 OTD with the 40% coupon. Quite a deal! Was looking over the parts and it's an incredible value for a very well tooled kit. Way to go Revell! Now we need a more colorful navy marking option than the included one. Bearcat's colorful picture may be an option to custom make.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Saturday, April 12, 2014 6:29 PM

You could probably do the different colors in paint, and looking at the instructions on the Revell site, it comes with those large stars for the Army version.  Just grab some different-colored letter decals from Microscale or dry transfers or something, and I'm sure you could do it yourself!  And if the sizes don't match up perfectly with the kit decals, just use the AM ones. Big Smile


I gotta get one of these!

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Rockford, IL
Posted by AlanF on Saturday, April 12, 2014 11:05 PM

It's great that there is lots of interest in the plane. Hopefully that will encourage some AM development.

Not to much progress to report as it's been too nice out to stay inside!

I've installed her engine but still need to paint the exhausts.  I'm trying to decide what to do with the prop.  The instructions give the option of a wood or aluminum one and they actually provide 2 props.  For the wooden on they do give you decals but I'm not sure they will look very good and I'm not sure I can paint convincing wood grain on smooth white plastic. The aluminum one is a safer bet but not as classy as a wood one. Any suggestions? 

And I managed to assemble and paint the wings.  Remind me when I do the yellow paint scheme -- I hate Tamiya Flat Yellow! It's not that the paint is bad but for some reason it is messy, gets all over me (who knows why!) and clogs up my airbrush  unless thinned way more than other paints in their line. I had to remove the paint twice before I got a good coat. So I just may use Future to gloss it instead of doing Tamiya Lemon Yellow gloss. But maybe now that I know the thinning ratio, I may risk the gloss.  I do know that I'm not going to use the decals for the walking strip on the wings. I'll paint those on.

I've also starting rigging the tail. This part scares me. I've only rigged one plane before and I used thin gauge wire - not too good and way out of scale. So I decided to try EZ-Line. The stuff stretches for what seems like forever, but it's very thin and kind of hard to work with. I keep telling myself, easy... easy... don't rush. If I do this right, it should look good.

That's it for now.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, April 12, 2014 11:19 PM

I bet some of the "generic" decals from Yellow Wings could be cobbled together for one of those colorful pre war birds. BTW, I love that in flight shot- I am quite familiar with the area below.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Sunday, April 13, 2014 6:59 AM

For the prop, if you have 2 paint both and pick the one that looks best to you!

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Sunday, April 13, 2014 10:25 PM

No go there, Rob, one prop is the metal McCauley and the other is a wood prop.  I have seen a picture of the model with the wood prop using the decals and I think it looked great.

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

 

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Rockford, IL
Posted by AlanF on Monday, April 14, 2014 7:50 AM

jeaton01

No go there, Rob, one prop is the metal McCauley and the other is a wood prop.  I have seen a picture of the model with the wood prop using the decals and I think it looked great.

That's true. I'm still not sure about the decals. I'm thinking of doing both and then see what you guys think. The only thing I'm toying around with is whether to use the decals or attempt to paint the wood one.  If I use the decals, I'm not sure how to get it to look wood-like.  The decals are very glossy but I think a flat overcoat wouldn't give it a wood look and the gloss looks unrealistic.  What do you think?

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Monday, April 14, 2014 5:38 PM

I think (and double check) that wood props were pretty well polyurethaned to protect from the weather.  I would do it wood and leave it glossy.  If you want to weather it and the aircraft, you might brush some flat coat on the leading edge of the prop blades to show the poly coming wearing off a bit.  But I would do so sparingly.

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Monday, April 14, 2014 6:32 PM

Wood props should always be at least satin, or else glossy.  Any moisture getting through the finish leads to imbalance or damage to glue joints, so the finish is usually nice on a wood prop that is airworthy.  Fabric covered propellers may be a different matter, but a varnished prop should look good.

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

 

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Rockford, IL
Posted by AlanF on Tuesday, April 15, 2014 9:34 PM

Thanks for comments on what to do about the prop. 

They were very helpful and encouraged me to try the wood decals. I'm glad I did. The decals didn't cover the entire prop, especially on the edges so I needed to paint those in -- Tamiya Flat Aluminum for the metal, Tamiya Brown for the brown tips and Model Master Acryl Leather for the wood. They were all pretty good matches right out of the bottle. It still needs a gloss coat for protection and maybe a tiny bit of wear.

I think they came out pretty good.  

I also put on the wing decals after deciding to use Tamiya Lemon Yellow for the gloss coat over the yellow flat.

I'm still freaking about the rigging. Sometimes procrastination is good, but most of the times not so much. 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Tuesday, April 15, 2014 11:01 PM

Looking good!

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

 

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Goffstown, NH
Posted by New Hampshire on Wednesday, April 16, 2014 6:22 AM

Sorry, the prop did not come out looking good.....it came out looking GREAT!!!! YesBig SmileYes

Been quietly following this thread up to now.  I honestly don't build a bunch of airplanes, but now I am kind of itching to pick one of these kits up thanks to you.  The PT-17 Stearman was a regular at all the airshows I went to as a kid and I always loved the way it looked (as, oddly, with a few other famous trainers like the Trojan and the Texan....of which I have a Texan kit in my stash waiting to be built, and I have been itching for a Trojan kit too!)

Can't wait to see more!

Brian

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Wednesday, April 16, 2014 11:30 AM

Thought you replaced the prop with a wood one until I read that it's a decal, and wow that looks fantastic. Been trying to see what the difference is between the wood and metal prop. Someone told me one particular engine may have called for using the metal prop. Thru my searching I discovered that those wood props are not cheap!

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Thursday, April 17, 2014 10:17 AM

As far as the wooden prop, I got to wondering.  The PT-17 was built with two engines.  I wonder if the wooden prop was used on both engines. I forget which engine the kit has- I'll need to check that out soon as I am about ready to start painting engine- but wonder if the wooden prop is correct for the engine in the kit.  All the photos I found with a google image search, of planes with both engines, showed the metal prop.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Rockford, IL
Posted by AlanF on Thursday, April 17, 2014 10:28 AM
Don Stauffer

As far as the wooden prop, I got to wondering.  The PT-17 was built with two engines.  I wonder if the wooden prop was used on both engines. I forget which engine the kit has- I'll need to check that out soon as I am about ready to start painting engine- but wonder if the wooden prop is correct for the engine in the kit.  All the photos I found with a google image search, of planes with both engines, showed the metal prop.

The instructions show the wooden prop as an option for the Army scheme not the Navy, if that helps. Other than the props, there are no additional options for the engine. There is no indication what engine was used for the model.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Thursday, April 17, 2014 10:41 AM

What is in the kit is very definitely a Continental W-670.

PT-17 was the designation for the Continental W-670 powered Stearman and it could have either the McCauley metal prop or Sensenich wood prop, in civilian life a Hamilton Standard ground adjustable aluminum prop is also certified to it but I don't if they were used by the military.  THe Lycoming R-680 Stearman was called the PT-13 and although I think they also could use both props I am not so sure as I am on the PT-17.

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, April 18, 2014 8:58 AM

I did a further google image search and did find several pics of the Continental Stearman with wooden prop.  So I guess either prop can be used and be correct.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    November 2006
Posted by Bearcat57 on Friday, April 18, 2014 11:30 PM
My Stearman arrived the other day. Looking it over, I haven't decided whether to rig it with EZ-line or very thin piano wire cut to length and pop the ends into holes drilled with a micro bit.
As I believe was previously alluded to, it would've been handy if Revell would have provided guide holes or notches for the rigging.

Oh well, all part of the "I built it myself" experience I s'pose.
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, April 19, 2014 9:17 AM

Maybe I have acquired obsessive/compulsive dusease (friends are telling me so), but I have decided to mask the formers and stringers inside the fuselage halves, to paint same color as the other framework.  If it were not for Tamiya tape it would not work at all.  Even with all care, I cannot keep all lines even thickness (they are about a 32nd inch wide), but since some of this stuff is covered by the main framework, maybe it will not be too noticeable. Sure is going slow.  Have on half ready to paint, maybe half done on the other side.  But I have held the sides and top together and it is indeed visible, so it is not one of those completely hidden detail things.

Also, it looks to me like the fuselage sides behind the engine are intended to be removable, so I may finish the accessories section on the back of the engine. I had thought it would be completely covered, but it looks like if I make one of those covers removable, it will be visible.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Smithers, BC, Canada
Posted by ruddratt on Saturday, April 19, 2014 6:54 PM

 The easier cover to leave off would be the one on the starboard side. The port side cover has the starter attaching to it.

Mike

 "We have our own ammunition. It's filled with paint. When we fire it, it makes pretty pictures....scares the hell outta people."

 

  • Member since
    April 2014
Posted by ww2modeler12 on Sunday, April 20, 2014 8:26 AM

That prop looks beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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