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Whats a good substitute for Burnt Iron?

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  • Member since
    December 2009
Whats a good substitute for Burnt Iron?
Posted by ww2psycho on Tuesday, August 5, 2014 4:13 PM

I'm at the point of painting the engine on my Zero. It calls out for Burnt Iron but I do not have that color on me. is there a suitable replacement like maybe copper or something along that line?

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Cameron, Texas
Posted by Texgunner on Tuesday, August 5, 2014 4:24 PM

Perhaps a rust color, or even leather?   A mid-brown, dry brushed with steel, or similar, might work as well.

Or maybe I'm on the wrong tangent color-wise.  Are we talking a gray shade since you mentioned "engine"?


"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"

  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by ww2psycho on Tuesday, August 5, 2014 4:29 PM

Its the back of the engine where it would attach to the firewall, so its whatever is behind the actual engine, maybe its the exhaust?

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Tuesday, August 5, 2014 5:01 PM

What paints are you using?

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by ww2psycho on Tuesday, August 5, 2014 6:27 PM

I'd either use Tamiya or Model Master. I went to the store and couldn't find a bottle that said "Burnt Iron" so I'm guessing I will have to mix my own. Any suggestions?

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Exeter, MO
Posted by kustommodeler1 on Tuesday, August 5, 2014 6:59 PM

Model Master Metalizer laquer had a burnt iron in its line.

Darrin

Setting new standards for painfully slow buildsDead

  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by ww2psycho on Tuesday, August 5, 2014 7:14 PM

I didnt see it at hobby lobby, I think I'm going to skip the engine for now and work on the fuselage and wings. I can make another run somewhere else tomorrow.

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Tuesday, August 5, 2014 7:29 PM

Perfect.  I only ever paint with Tamiya paints.  What I would suggest is to start with painting everything Flat Black.  Let it set up and then move on to something like a Flat RedBrown or a Nato Brown.  You don't need to completely cover the black, but I would mostly cover it.  Thin your paints down so you can see the change happen at a rate you can detect. =]  Sometimes I will even take a little Flat Yellow with some Flat RedBrown and mix it...not thoroughly...just a couple of swirls (keeping more yellow), thin it down, and drop a few tactfully placed swipes to show some variation in the rusting.  Depending on the fuel used, with leaded fuels you could thin out some Light Grey with some Flat White and thinly drag your brush along the exiting edge of exhaust.

That works for me pretty well.  =]

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Tuesday, August 5, 2014 7:32 PM

On my exhausts, I use XF-64 Red Brown over XF-1 Flat Black then a slight dry brushing with silver.

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by ww2psycho on Tuesday, August 5, 2014 8:25 PM

Thanks guys!

  • Member since
    June 2004
  • From: 29° 58' N 95° 21' W
Posted by seasick on Tuesday, August 5, 2014 8:45 PM

Model masters acrylic #4676 is "Jet Exhaust"

Chasing the ultimate build.

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Houston, Texas
Posted by panzerpilot on Tuesday, August 5, 2014 9:37 PM

I used a "recipe" for a  while with Tamiya paint: 1 part flat black. 1 part gun metal. 2 parts red brown.

-Tom

  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by ww2psycho on Tuesday, August 5, 2014 9:39 PM

AH so many options! I don't think it will be seen so I'll just do something close to it using what one of you said.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, August 6, 2014 8:42 AM

I often use a flat gray with drybrushed Testors Steel or some other aluminum or silver color drybrushed on.  For burnt steel I also then drybrush on some flat medium to dark brown.  Just a thin, translucent shading, hence use of drybrushing.  Like washes, a little goes a long way.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Wednesday, August 6, 2014 7:20 PM

I believe the Model Master metaliizer  burnt iron is mostly brown, perhaps with a bit of aluminum mixed in.  I used it on an F-15 model for the exhaust nozzles years ago, and it looks great.  It's probably still available today.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Wednesday, August 6, 2014 8:10 PM

I believe Gunze/Mr. Hobby carries Burnt Iron.

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