Washes?

I've been using Citadel and Game Color all water base products BTW that Butcher bird is looking great.

I've used this stuff on my last 2 or 3 builds.  It's clay-based and works really well and quite easy too.

http://www.florymodels.co.uk/washes/

If that's far from your best, I give up!  Looks great from this angle.

I've used the citadel and it dries really quickly, so I personally have to work in small sections.  I've also had a little more success with thinned oils as they seem to be more forgiving and they give you time to actually make some progress before you have to come back and start wiping up.

Groot

Awesome work Mike.  I second Gary's suggestion.  I use the Flory on all of my panel lines now.  Slop it on, let it dry, then wipe it off with a slightly damp paper towel .  It does a nice job bringing out all of the other details too, such as rivets.  I mix the Dark Dirt and Black to varing degrees.  You can get it at Sprue Brothers.  

Joe

I am another Flory wash user, I love that stuff.

I have tried a few but find my own method works best.

I use odourless thinners and add Black/brown oils until i get a nice thin mix.

Maybe give it go along side the commercial stuff and see how it goes.

If you do want to make your own, it has to be very thin.  If you are trying washes in panel lines, go very easy. It is too easy to overdo black or super dark panel lines.

Thanks guys!  I've been using oils but I just can't seem to get the mix right, either too thin or too thick.  Will get the Flory wash ordered and see how I like that.

Here's another pic but it's a bit washed out from the bright sunlight.  I think I'll add some more mottling.  Everything was done freehand with the airbrush except for the hard edge on the wings and horizontal stabilizer.  For that I cut masks from blue painters tape.

Will post more pics when I get it washed and add some silver chipping in wear areas and a little exhaust staining.

Mike

I mix my own with store bought thinner and artists oils. I do find that Flory product interesting. Is that available locally or only across the pond?

Sprue Brothers carries it but most are out of stock right now.

Thanks Buck. I may just get a couple of bottles to try it out. I got a couple of bottles of Vallejo wash but don't like how it behaves so I keep using my thinner and oil paint mix.

Also, I should have recommended checking out a couple of other forums that often have "washes" threads, the Techniques and the Painting and Airbrushing forums.

These are in the Tools, Techniques and Reference Materials area, the last area in the forums list.

Thanks Don, I always come to Aircraft first and try to make it "down there" when I can. LOL

Mike

That Flory Wash is great stuff for sure.Great looking camo on your 190

I've been using odorless turpentine and artist oils. Black and burnt umber. I mix one bottle black to the look of coffee and the other bottle with burnt umber and small amount of black for a more dirt like affect. Again, it is as thin as coffee. Using a fine brush I dot it where I want it and use the turpentine with a Qtip to remove the areas I don't want after it has dried. Then seal it with my final coat. I am curious about the products listed above and may give them a try, but I am happy with my oil so far. The great thing about it is if you make a mistake or don't like it you can completely remove it and start over with no harm to the paint or decals.

Brandon,

i just bought the black and burnt umber oils and some Turpenoid but have yet to try them.

Will the oils affect NMF while Pin washing panel lines ?

Jay Jay

Brandon,

i just bought the black and burnt umber oils and some Turpenoid but have yet to try them.

Will the oils affect NMF while Pin washing panel lines ?

This is where I learned my technique. The other methods my be better but I haven't tried them yet. I am very happy with my results thus far.

Same method I use and works every time. I have to mention that I do not use all those expensive products featured in the video. I use regular turpentine from Home Depot and a set of Reeves artists oils from Hobby Lobby that was about $11 for 24 small tubes.

BrandonK

This is where I learned my technique. The other methods my be better but I haven't tried them yet. I am very happy with my results thus far.

This is what I have been doing, you may be able to see it better along the ailerons and elevators.  Maybe I just need more patience........................not one of my strong suits. LOL

Mike

Another Flory fan here.

Have tried other methods including artist oils and Vallejo, can't seem to get the hang of them.

I also lack in patience, making the Flory perfect for me. Slop it on, wipe away at my convenience. You can leave this stuff on forever and come back and wipe it off anytime. Or wash it all off and start over.

Highly recommend watching Flory's own 'how to" video on their site.

One word of caution, I find the clay-based pigment ever so slightly abrasive. On my first go with it, I got too aggressive 'scrubbing' over a too thin clear coat and did a tad bit of damage. My bad, the product isn't meant to be 'scrubbed' off, rather gently wiped.

Your 190 is looking awesome, Mike.

Thanks Greg.  I have watched their how to video and thanks for the heads up on the abrasiveness.

Mike

You're certainly welcome, Mike.

If you have trouble finding the Flory in stock somewhere, I seem to recall looking at their direct pricing and shipping charges across the pond, I think they were reasonable. But then my memory ain't the greatest.

Greg

You're certainly welcome, Mike.

If you have trouble finding the Flory in stock somewhere, I seem to recall looking at their direct pricing and shipping charges across the pond, I think they were reasonable. But then my memory ain't the greatest.

You're exactly right Greg.  I bought my set of washes directly from Phil Flory through his website and he was a really good guy to deal with.

http://www.florymodels.co.uk/

Gary

I think I may go that route myself if I can't find it over here this week.

Mike

Jay Jay

Brandon,

i just bought the black and burnt umber oils and some Turpenoid but have yet to try them.

Will the oils affect NMF while Pin washing panel lines ?

Another product to use that is better than turpenoid is Mona Lisa thinner for oils. It is the most inert thinner on the market. I've mixed my oils with this thinner for my washes and placed it directly over enamel and lacquer finishes and have had no ill effects. You can find it in the paint section of any art supply store at a very reasonable price for the size of the container you get.

That being said, I've also used the Flory washes and enjoyed them as well. I never truly mastered the technique so mine were a bit slipshod. I ran out of supply before really learning how to do it well and I never knew where to get it again... until now.

Gary, thank you for confirming my buying direct from Flory memory. Guess I have some (memory) left after all.

Duke, appreciate the post about Mona Lisa thinner. I keep meaning to buy some to see if I have better luck with oils using it. I think your post will be the one to send me over the edge and just do it.

The only trouble I have had using them was my fault as they didn't cause the issue. If you clean or rub an area too much or too hard with the turpinoid you can rub through the clear and damage decals and paint underneath. I was able to see it happening and stopped before it was very noticeable and prevented further damage. If you thicken it a bit you can actually hand paint panel line shading if you want. I am curious about using the other method and will give it a go also so I can actually have a full opinion on what I prefer.

BrandonK

This is where I learned my technique. The other methods my be better but I haven't tried them yet. I am very happy with my results thus far.

That's probably the best video tute I've seen for oil washes. Thank you for posting it, Brandon.

Makes me want to give it a go again, for sure.