Gamera, that is exquisite work man!!  Just beautiful, and inspires me to get off my *ss and build some Japanese fighters!   So well done my friend.

Gary

She's a beaut for sure!  I do like the weathering on it, by the way.  I've got a Myrt on my to do list, but I want to get a little more experience first...  Thanks for sharing, Raymond

Gamera,

 She looks great! I really like it.    have you seen my 1/72 shinden over in the Japanese III  GB  I used hairspray on mine.  I think the both have their advantages and short comings,  although i haven't tried the salt method yet.

John

Excellent job Gamera. You should be very happy with the outcome as that George looks Superb! I love the lines of the George and got lucky about 4 years ago at a local show I attended where I picked up a box with 3 kits inside, all for $20! Those Hasegawas fall together right out of the box.

I made this one for the Japanese GB a while back using the salt technique too. I agree with you as to having more control with the hairspray method so the next one will be done as such. I also used a silver Prismacolor pencil here and there.

Hey thanks guys!

Gary: I love Japanese aircraft, don't know if it's the lines or the paint schemes or both, but try one and I think you'll like it!

Ray: If get around to the Myrt would love to have you in Japanese GB IV - kicking off the first of next year!

John: Yeap, I listed everyone in alphabetical order so you're right next to me!

PJ: Frankly I like how your fighter and John's turned out better than mine, well anyway it's a practice thing and hopefully my next one will be better. I'm thinking about doing the hairspray and sprinkling a little salt on too for a more random look to the flaking.  

Great work!  Excellent fading and chipping!

You being happy with the build is the most important thing.  But I can tell ya... from here it looks pretty darn nice.

Beautiful!

Mike

Hey thanks guys!

Marc: Really I'm not complaining- I'm happy with how she turned out. Just that I like the greater control offered by the hairspray technique more. 

Very Nice work Gamera. Weathering looks pretty realistic. I've never used salt for chipping before but it does seem like it would be touchy. Are those the kit decals? They look nice.

Thanks Nathan! The decals are AeroMaster, never had much luck with Hasegawa decals, I generally just replace them now.

Well done Gamera.  I like the Shiden too.   I may give this one a whirl soon myself.  Can you explain the "hairspray technique"?

Thanks,

Joe

Hey Joe and thanks!

The hairspray technique consists of painting the model natural metal or whatever you want to show underneath and then spraying two or so (that's what works for me, you might use one or three) coats of hairspray over the model. Once this is dry then spray the green or whatever you want for the top coat. After this is dry take a toothbrush or a stiff paint brush, moisten it and then gently scrub where you want to remove paint. The hairspray underneath will peel up taking the top coat with it revealing the natural metal or whatever you have under that. Make sure the brush is moist and not wet or it will take ALL the top coat off.

I like it better than the salt technique since it's easier to concentrate the wear where you want it. It will also work like a reverse drybrush, taking the paint off the raised edges where it would chip first.

The salt technique is somewhat  more random, I'm thinking of trying to combine the two and see if I can get the best of both.  

Looks like the real deal Gamera, beautiful build

Gamera

Hey Joe and thanks!

The hairspray technique consists of painting the model natural metal or whatever you want to show underneath and then spraying two or so (that's what works for me, you might use one or three) coats of hairspray over the model. Once this is dry then spray the green or whatever you want for the top coat. After this is dry take a toothbrush or a stiff paint brush, moisten it and then gently scrub where you want to remove paint. The hairspray underneath will peel up taking the top coat with it revealing the natural metal or whatever you have under that. Make sure the brush is moist and not wet or it will take ALL the top coat off.

I like it better than the salt technique since it's easier to concentrate the wear where you want it. It will also work like a reverse drybrush, taking the paint off the raised edges where it would chip first.

The salt technique is somewhat  more random, I'm thinking of trying to combine the two and see if I can get the best of both.  

Gamera, does this technique work with enamel as the "over-coat" paint?  I'd like to try it someday.  Thanks for helping!

Gary

Thanks Woody!

Gary, I frankly have no idea, I've only used it with acrylic paint. You might want to grab an old 'paint mule' model and give it a try. At least the hairspray is cheap if it doesn't work.

The salt technique I used here is to sprinkle the model with salt, the big chunky sea salt seems to work best and spritz it with a little water to 'lock' it in place. When dry spray the top coat on and when that's dry take a wet brush and scrape the salt off, it will leave a speckled chipped look like this, this technique should work with enamel I'd think.

Thanks Gamera, I may try this.  Any prarticular bran of hairspray?.  I'm thinking Aqua Net...

Joe

Not sure if it makes any difference, I just grabbed something. I if you know what I mean have less use for hairspray with each passing year...

Gamera, I do believe the prayer is this: Dear Lord, Please let my hear turn grey.  If not, oh Lord, allow it to turn white.  But what ever your will is merciful God, don't let my hair turn loose!!!

Yeah, I'm looking at a couple of other GBs around the first of the year, but I'd love to do a Japanese build for sure.  That would also give me enough time to get one or two more practice builds in.  I'm   I'm wanting to do the Mert for the Lexington's Fine Scale Model Display.

Thanks for the explanation for the different techniques, by the way.  I was actually going to ask you how the hair spray worked.  You don't have any cracking with the hairspray?  Do you have to be careful about temperature?  I bet it'd work like a dream for rivets.  Yes, no? I had thought about using clear coat, or dull coat, for the same thing, but figured the damp brush would go right through it.   Raymond

I'm certainly no expert on the hairspray technique, I've only used it a few times so far but no issues as yet (cross your fingers). You can buy a 'chipping fluid' from AK Interactive Products but I've heard several people tell me it's just expensive hairspray in a model paint bottle!

You'll want to put a clear coat or two over the whole thing when you're done chipping, it seems to keep the paint from totally lifting during decaling or otherwise washing the model.

As said I'm still in a learning process here, hopefully no disasters in the future with this!

1. Looks great Gamera, way to go.

Good to know.  I'm toying with getting one of Revell's B-17G, P-47 Razorback, or a P-51 and hand painting one of several different birds.  The kits are cheap enough that if I blow it during the learning process it's no big deal.  I just see so much potential with either of these two techniques that I'm a bit excited...  Thanks again, Raymond  

Hey thanks Steve!

Raymond, I assume you'll post you results here, I'd really like to see how she turns out. I'm not sure how either technique would work with hand brushing though.  

I love it!

Ha!  I really ought stop posting in the wee hours of the morning!  What I meant was free handing the details on the P-51.  I'll either do Big Beautiful Doll or the Duchess Arlene.  No, I'll be using an air brush for sure.  I'd use these techniques in the weathering process in the painted areas..  Stripping, nose, tail, ect...  Yeah, the guys that hand brush these things and make them look like they've been air brushed have my utmost respect...  Raymond  

Hey Waikong, thanks!!!

Raymond: Lol, thought that's what you meant but wasn't totally sure! I know what you mean, Bsyamato somehow brush paints even pre-shading and it looks great! He's posted photos of how he does it but I don't think I could duplicate it even with loads of practice.