Removing ruined decals

Here's how the decals came out;

The Scotch tape method has always given me excellent results.

With the make your own decals, I've found that they are generally too translucent and I have to double up, which is surprisingly easy to do.  Just let the first one dry all the way, apply micro sol as usual and when dry put the second right on top and align it.  It's really easier than you think.

Groot

I've had good luck with the water and rub method. It takes a while but it did pull all my problem decals in the past.

Fly-n-Hi 's  water technique worked very well for me, ( see above ) and I had to do it twice.   ( micro sol ruined the original kit decals because it was not needed, the second set was on me because I made the decals a little too large and the white decal paper showed on the edges.)   After the 3rd decal installation, they all came out beautifully and the NMF finish was in no way affected.

I find if any tough spots remain after tape method, lacquer thinner in a moist pad takes off decals fairly well, but it will definitely damage paint underneath. It is real brinksmanship, not for feint hearted! Do NOT just douse with thinner, only moisten pad slightly.

I just had an Eagle Cal stars and bars insignia decal do the same thing on the top of my P-51 D wing.  It would not unwrinkle under Micro Sol and now its dry.  I even tried the even more potent Solva-set to no avail.  Strangely the other three went on fine?  Any ideas folks?  Duct tape perhaps?   .......or just live with the wrinkles before I end up making it worse..... 

Joe

Hmmm the scotch tape technique is interesting as well panzerpilot and I thank you for the tip.

I'm attempting for the 3rd time to get these decals right so I have to again remove 3 of them.

I'm trying to print my own replacements and having a time of it.  1st I printed the decals on clear paper; too translucent...2nd on white paper;  good color but the cut edges showed white except the one I cut with scissors.  I'm re-printing the roundels and this time I will cut them with scissors and paint the edges before I water soak them.

I guess what I should do is put this project on hold untill I solicit Hasegawa for a new set of decals and just use those ,but I'm so near to finishing I really don't want to wait a month to get the new decals.

I've used scotch tape to remove decals from NMF.  Though it did lift up small parts of the finish, I was able to repair it very well with another coat.

Ty Fly-n-Hi   I'm retired, time I got , money I don't  LOL

What I would do is take a brush, dip it in water and gently scrub or brush over the decal.  Keep the brush wet by dipping it in water regularly.   Eventually, the decal will soften up and you will be able to start to work the brush under the decal.  Do this gently, though, in case you want to try to save the decal.  After a while you should be able to remove or reposition the decal very easily.

This process takes a little bit of time.  It may be 20 to 30 minutes if the decal is really sticking to the model.  But on a NMF it may take less time.

This won't hurt you NMF at all.