Revell F-8E Crusader

Is this 1/48th or 1/72nd? Unfortunately, I'm not too familiar with the Revell offering of this plane. And dittoes to the above. Go to www.eduard.com and see if they list anything for it. Same goes for www.squadron.com .

go here   https://www.scalemates.com/

up in the search box, type the next line

Vought F-8 Crusader

and click on the scale of your kit (Revell made three different scale Crusaders),,,,,or you can leave it at just Vought F-8 Crusader, and it will then show all the books that that members know about, as well as all the kits, decals and aftermarket that the members know about.

When you make your shopping list, pick out multiple items for each thing on your list, so you can search for a different company if you find something is Out of Production.

Rex

oh, and Semper Fi back at you Sgt (from an old Cpl)

That's a good resource......there's a cockpit set from FM Detail that has photoetch, but I already bought the black box kit.....that one didn't come with photoetch... :  (   How would I contact these people?

Good resources.......I'll have to check them out.

If you still have the Monogram IP, try practicing dry-brushing on it. Paint the panel black, put some white on a brush, then brush the paint out on a palette until it is almost dry, then lightly brush over the top of the instruments. The raised areas will pick up the paint, revealing the details. If there's too much paint on the brush, you'll get streaks on areas that you don't want white(paint back over it with black and start again); if there's too little paint, just reload the brush and try again. You can then use a toothpick, or some other pointed instrument, and apply colors, such as red or yellow, to individual spots for variety, then drop in some Future into the instrument dials to simulate the glass. Once you get the hang of it, then apply the same technique to your BB instrument panel. You'll be surprised at how well and how quickly you can get good results.

Never did that before...I will give it a go. Thx.

OOhRAh!

Before I try the dry brushing technique, can I ask a question? Would it be better to use a wider brush or a smaller brush?

I use a cut-down STIFF  brush .  I have a cheap metal handled brush used for auto parts cleaning because it's bristles are very stiff.   I cut most of the bristles off and shortened the remaining ones to about 3/8 " long.  This serves me well when dry brushng tiny parts such as cockpit detail etc.  I did buy a specialty brush made for drybrushing ( about 8 bucks ) at a craft store and it works well on larger areas but mostly I use the metal handled one.

Can't seem to find any good photos of the rear wall and rear upper deck of the cockpit. Anyone have any suggestions on detailing? I think the upper deck should be grey tho, not black.....this is a 1:48 BB tub. The stick that came in the BB kit...and the IP.....aren't correct. May have to use the kit parts.....

Anyone at all? Feedback on detailing the tub?

Like you I'm back after a hiatus but I'm on my fifth model.  In the absence of IP decals I use a coat or two of flat white, (or whatever color you want to reveal) and cover with flat black or Nato black.  Then I lightly sand the IP to reveal the instrumentation.  I suppose you can dry brush to reveal more detail but I haven't gone that far.  

The Squadron/Signal F-8 Walk Around book has a couple of photos of the rear deck area.  The photos are in B&W, but both the rear wall of the tub and the rear deck under the canopy appear to be gray.  It looks like the photos may be of the restored F-8 at the Naval Aviation Museum in Pensacola.

Mark

Sweet. Thanks Mark.

BB &  SAC goodies for this build.....

That's another trick I never thought about. I used the dry brush on the A-7 IP, and it came out pretty good, so I think I'll try it for this one as well. But I added that technique to my book of tricks! Thank you.

Is there any good way to strip the paint from kit/resin parts without damaging them?

Testors makes a paint remover that works pretty well, the can is rectangular and a tan/brown color, about 8 inches tall or so.  It works well on plastic, haven't tried on resin.  I would recommend testing on some painted sprue before using on the actual pieces.

Groot

SargeUSMC

Is there any good way to strip the paint from kit/resin parts without damaging them?

Hey SargeUSMC,

I've used SuperClean degreaser to remove paint with great success.  I've used it on acrylics, enamels, and Alclad's line and it's never damaged any plastic or resin.  I've even used it on clear parts and it didn't attack or craze the clear parts at all.  Just drop the painted parts into some SuperClean and let it soak.  The paint will rinse off and the tougher paints will lift off with a slight scrub of a toothbrush.  My only warning would be to use gloves.  This stuff is pretty harsh on skin.  After a soak in this stuff, a wash in soapy water will get the parts ready for paint.  There have been very few instances where the paint hasn't come off.  The only time I've run in to stubborn paint is when the paint's been super-thick applications of lacquers in tight spaces (i.e. corners, wingroots; etc).  I have a gallon of the stuff that I've had for years.  A gallon should be plenty for  your needs.

Good luck and keep building!

Cheers!

-O

I use Tamiya lacquer thinner.  Have never worked with resin.

This has been one of my favorite kits since it came out in the 80s.  Some tips I've read/used/came up with myself for this kit.  You can improve the appearance of the back end if you thin the edges down a bit.

The left side is thinned down here:

Its way easier if you thin down the outside edge of the exhaust nozzle:

Unthinned nozzle:

Thinned nozzle & thinned left fuselage opening:

Also, if you remove the ridge shown in the photo from both sides of the fuselage, you can install the nozzle after you glue the fuse halves together and finish painting the model:

The rear deck of the cockpit should be gray with a green LOX bottle:

I have my LOX bottle painted green....did you do any other detailing of the back wall/rear deck of the tub?

I like the look of the ass end with the thinned out parts. Perhaps I'll give that a go.

These "white metal" parts are actually metal! Does superglue work well enough to hold them in place?

No, I left that area alone. There is a bulkhead that attaches to the rear of the canopy, and it blocks that area a fair amount, so it wasn't worth it to me to add any additional detail.  For the white metal, I've used the two part epoxy  in the twin tube dispenser that you should be able to find in the same area as CA glue in any store. Just roughen up the gluing surfaces on the model and the metal.

What shade of grey you got on that tub? Mine is "light aircraft grey".....

USN/USMC cockpits have been FS 36231 dark gull gray since the 1950's.  

Thanks!

Seems to be a hard color to find locally....

Upon closer inspection I find that one of the pieces of the white metal landing gear kit is short shot on one end.....