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After doing a handful of models and posting the results 2-3 finished (maybe not) models I've decided to post this one from the beginning to end. This Monogram A6M is a good place to start because it has virtually no cockpit details. The pilot is molded into the seat and his head is misshapen to the extent that it would be easier to believe he crashed at Roswell instead of flying at Midway. Minimal parts here and the finished product could be reasonably acceptable if you ignore the painting instructions and look around the net for some corrections on the color scheme. I've got to remember how to post photos here but they will follow soon.
?
I've been posting photos for years and have no idea what is required by finescale to get a photo on board. I have gotten the photos before but now photos will not post. Even when I got them posted they were a PITA to get done. I'm posting through photobucket but nada.
VN750
In Photobucket, click on an image in your library, it will show full size on screen, to the right there are several options. Click on 'direct link' - it will change to 'copied' which means the link is now on your clipboard. Go to FSM and the fora where you want to post, use rich formatting and click on the little screen icon (insert picture) - a popup willl appear, place your cursor in the box, hit "control + V" and the link will be inserted in the box then click 'insert' and your done. HTH
Thanks Bick! Nothing new here. Tamiya Surface primer spray can. The green yellow caterpillar is the canopy glass. So far I do not tape the canopy and cut along the lines for the mask. I start with the lines in one direction, and paint as needed, start with the lines in the other direction, etc. When I hold the canopy to the light and see no light shining through it's done. I don't use a primer on the canopy. The thickness of the taped may not allow the primer to be covered by the final coat.
I checked out FSM and some other sources and will use Tamiya XF-76 for the bottom surfaces and XF-70 for the top. Also, I have an Hasegawa #1070, 1/32 A6M5, so the Monogram here is practice for the future and the hinomaru is a good place to start for masking you own decals which is a possibility here.
Hey looks great so far!
Btw: yeah, the photo posting system here can be a little hard to figure out at first. And sometimes I doesn't seem to want to work, though maybe it's my browser, I really don't know.
Btw again: You're welcome to join our Japanese Group Build IV over on the Group Build section of the forum if you'd like, of course if you'd rather build in peace and quiet it's cool to see you work here too!
"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen
interesting. i usually prime after everything is together but that will change with some of my builds next year due to complicated chassis and cutouts. i will expand my comfort zone and do a plane, aka target. i think there was an FSM beginners supplement that used this kit for a how to build.
and join the GB but continue to post in a/c too. GBs are a lot of fun.
Никто не Забыт (No one is Forgotten)Ничто не Забыто (Nothing is Forgotten)
Thanks, might as well get my feet wet.
I've seen some builds posted here and on you tube that show primer after the body is assembled and there may be an advantage because the postings are by experienced builders. The thought that comes to mind is the airbrush used on the finish one of the high end ones with excellent control over the nozzle.
Can't say as I've ever used primer until I was ready to paint everything after it was all together. Seems that you would have to scrape away a lot of primer where the glue would need to go.
The build is looking great, though. Hope that you have an easy time with the build.
Devil Dawg
On The Bench: Tamiya 1/32nd Mitsubishi A6M5 Model 52 Zeke For Japanese Group Build
Build one at a time? Hah! That'll be the day!!
Thanks, I taped the edges and use liquid mask in the small spots. I probably should be priming after assembly but at this point it's not knowing better. Come to think of it I will have to do some sanding which will take off some primer.
There, I got it. Thanks, folks. A problem with this Monogram Zero is the same problem I had with the Monogram 1/72 DO17Z. The fit down the back is depressed and the whole seam requires putty but the sanding removes the detail. Next time I will assemble the model before priming. The cockpit is just on for pre-fit purposes.
VN750 I've been posting photos on the net since 1999 and FSM is such a PITA it's not worth it. Goodbye.
I've been posting photos on the net since 1999 and FSM is such a PITA it's not worth it. Goodbye.
Please don't get too discouraged. It is really simple (hey, even I can do this!). Try this:
First, start an account at a photo-hosting site; I use Photobucket. Then, upload your pics that you've saved to your computer. After they are uploaded, you'll see the thumbnail pics.Move your cursor over the pic and you'll see a little gear symbol in the upper-right corner. A drop down menu appears and you choose "get links". Another window will open with several choices for you. You want to click on the one that says "IMG codes". Once you do, it will show "copied". Now, go to the post that you've started here and simply "paste" the code.I hope that helps!Gary
"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"
Thanks Gary. I will give it the college try.
You can see the top of the fuselage and the detail lost. Time for paint
Oh Boy, I'm going to town now! Stop me if you start seeing my baby pictures.
I use a piecemeal approach to masking canopies by doing it in sections. The canopy on this model had some weak lines. Looking at photos of the actual aircraft I notice the canopy lines are thinner than the lines on the model but at this point I'm not using primer. That makes the line edges a little fragile. I've finished the canopy but it will require some touch ups.
By Jove, I think you've got it!
Gary
Nice work so far, on a venerable kit! It has some faults, but they're more a product of its age. Your boxing may be from 1990, but the kit itself was first issued in the early 60's, if I am not mistaken.
I built one a couple of years ago for the first Monogram Mafia build. It's a fun kit to try out new techniques, or for a quick build as an antidote to advanced modeler syndrome. Or you could give in to AMS completely and try to super-detail it.
I look forward to seeing your progress!
The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.
Looking great. I hate masking zero canopies.......ugh. Thanks for sharing
Joe.
"Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"
What ?
You too ! I do believe that the hardest thing to do is WW - 2 canopies .English and American as well as German planes give me fits .I won't even say what Japanese aircraft canopies do to my sanity .Brain , here brain . T.B.
Thanks. Boxing is from 1990. The top seam in the fuselage aft of the canopy is a trough and not a peak. Hard to maintain detail after sanding down the putty. But as lacking as this particular kit is it does have some attributes that can be useful for experimentation. For light weathering a very fine sandpaper drag windward produces passable results exposing the rivets and some leading edge wear.
May I recommend beer and late hours.
Here is the canopy results. Still some finishing results needed. After this photo I went to painting the leading edge of the wing yellow and it didn't go well. even with particular attention paid to the tape adhering there was bleeding under it and onto the green section of the wing. The problem at this stage is the more you handle the plane the more inclined you are to break off the fine parts like the pitot and guns.
I used Tamiya XF70 Dark Green 2 here but brushed onto the canopy. Tamiya XFs are flat I thought but the canopy lines came out glossy. When sprayed on the plane it came out flat. Used XF76 on the underside.
This is the final though it's not. Some glitches with decals led me to experiment with painting on my own decals. I bought an aluminum template from Hobby Lobby with the circles that closely approximated the 1/48 scale, used a #16 Exacto blade and cut them out on 3m blue painters tape. This final attempt was my second attempt and I had to clean it off to repaint. I'll put this one away for awhile. I've spent too much time on on it and need a change. I checked out a couple of vintage Monogram kits I have and have put them aside in anticipation of certain old mold problems.
Making my own mask for decals exposed some painting mistakes on my part. The #1 error was too heavy a spray pass which gives the paint a chance to wander under the mask. Bad on the first try because I got lazy and brush painted. Not bad on the second but flawed enough because of my airbrush technique. I plan to use the glass surface on my table for practicing masks and other spraying techniques. Also, I misaligned the mask on the wings. Better to do it on this Zero that I have $10.00.
Note: The green is Tamiya XF70. Flat if it's sprayed by tends to glossy when brushed on. That makes the paint job hard to retouch even the small stuff and you are forced to load up your airbrush.
I'm beginning to crave more detail.
The insignia look pretty good to me in your photos, I always use decals since I'm sure I'd find some way to mess them up like this.
And I always do the yellow leading edges first since I can't ever get yellow to cover anything.
That Zero looks great, VN750! I'm very impressed with your masking and painting of the hinomarus (meat balls). I never would've gotten the red and white to line up that well.
As far as keeping the paint from running under the masks, once you've burninshed down the edges of the masks, spray the edges with clear coat first to seal the edges, then paint. Keeps the paint where it's supposed to be.
Thanks Gamera, Devil Dawg. I brushed the yellow on only to discover that you can't cover yellow well at all with a brush. Your are right about doing the leading edges first and I should have done that. One of the problems I'm dealing with now is figuring what gets painted first and when. This Zero was a good model for that. It's cheaply obtained and no matter how hard you try to get it down you can still convince yourself it was an experiment from the start.
I found that masking roundels yourself (probably the same is true with the aftermarket stuff) attention to the airbrush is important.
Thanks much for your input. You helped me to get out of it more than I put in. 's
Thank you for all the pictures of the work process!) being a newbie in this hobby, it is essentional for me to see everything in details!))
If you still want to try to get the yellow leading edges you might try a light color that covers well like silver, then go over that with yellow? I would definitely test it on some scrap first, but it might work.
What you have looks fantastic, particularly the meatballs. You centered the red over the white perfectly.
Groot
"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS
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