Homemade Wash Advice!

I like oil or enamel washes myself... Very forgiving and lots of clean up time... I thin the oils with Mona Lisa thinner, and enamels with generic hardware store thinner...

I use acrylic drawing ink thinned with a little soap and lots of water for my pin washes, costs next to nothing and cleans off easy if the model is gloss enough  LOL

Theuns

stikpusher

I like oil or enamel washes myself... Very forgiving and lots of clean up time... I thin the oils with Mona Lisa thinner, and enamels with generic hardware store thinner...

Will doing this harm my gloss coat (future) or any exposed enamel paint?   Is that similar to what Bobby Waldron is using in this video?   Skip to 30 seconds in the video to see what I'm talking about:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfsFGZbiDLM&list=PLXMRarQYThdZxfpKYf-UqCPfU5VZxJjl5

Wait -- okay.  I did some more reading and I think I comprehend.     I can use  Winsor and Newton (or others) oils mixed with  Mona Lisa Odorless thinner.   Slop it on (or pin wash it on).  All that CAN be done over and acrylic coat (Future).    My next question is: what do I remove the wash with once its dried?

I also just use my enamel model paints- usually Testors enamel, thinned with turpentine.  Works fine.

I have only  used artist oils and odorless turpentine for my washes and I am pleased with how they look. Up until recently I have had no trouble with them. I have learned that this combination does NOT like to play well with Alclad Klear Gloss. It causes the clear to rub off and it gets all sticky and holds onto lint and cotton fibers (I use q-tips to clean up) and that was a HUGE mess.

It looks OK, but the clean up was a nightmare. I won't be using that combo with Alclad clears again. I have used it several times with Testor's clears with no issues at all and with Future, no problems.

I am switching to Flory washes however, I just think they are safer and give a better looking result in the end. I blame Lawdog for this, it's all his fault with those "how to" builds.

BrandonK

I have only  used artist oils and odorless turpentine for my washes and I am pleased with how they look. Up until recently I have had no trouble with them. I have learned that this combination does NOT like to play well with Alclad Klear Gloss. It causes the clear to rub off and it gets all sticky and holds onto lint and cotton fibers (I use q-tips to clean up) and that was a HUGE mess.

It looks OK, but the clean up was a nightmare. I won't be using that combo with Alclad clears again. I have used it several times with Testor's clears with no issues at all and with Future, no problems.

I am switching to Flory washes however, I just think they are safer and give a better looking result in the end. I blame Lawdog for this, it's all his fault with those "how to" builds.

Thats because Alclad Klear Kote is enamel based. You should be fine with future or Alclad's Aqua Gloss.

I've had the same issue with the Alclad clears.  Oils won't have an issue over future if you opt to use that.

Groot

After zee oil drys, am I able to reliquify  it with the thinner?

No need to wait for the oils to dry... they can take up to a week to fully dry anyway. Let 'em sit for about an hour and then go over the surface with a paper towel or cotton bud moistened - not wet - with thinner.

In addition to thinner I usually mix in a little liquin with oils. It causes them to dry much, much faster. However, drying time is still well over 24 hours so you have all kinds of time to play around with them. Liquin is also marketed as Japan Dryer - same stuff, it just depends on what brand you find.

A quick word of caution - don't put your oils in thin plastic cups (solo or other thin ones), preferably use a glass vessel.  The thinner will melt the plastic (ask me how I know)!

Groot

MIflyer

No need to wait for the oils to dry... they can take up to a week to fully dry anyway. Let 'em sit for about an hour and then go over the surface with a paper towel or cotton bud moistened - not wet - with thinner.

In addition to thinner I usually mix in a little liquin with oils. It causes them to dry much, much faster. However, drying time is still well over 24 hours so you have all kinds of time to play around with them. Liquin is also marketed as Japan Dryer - same stuff, it just depends on what brand you find.

Awesome info; thanks! 

RobGroot4

A quick word of caution - don't put your oils in thin plastic cups (solo or other thin ones), preferably use a glass vessel.  The thinner will melt the plastic (ask me how I know)!

Groot

I was going to mix it in a plastic cup!  Thank you for saving me from disaster!

Do you guys think that an oil wash is just as good as those expensive washes in end result?