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Homemade Wash Advice!

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  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by SubarooMike on Thursday, January 1, 2015 6:57 PM

Do you guys think that an oil wash is just as good as those expensive washes in end result?

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by SubarooMike on Thursday, January 1, 2015 6:56 PM

RobGroot4

A quick word of caution - don't put your oils in thin plastic cups (solo or other thin ones), preferably use a glass vessel.  The thinner will melt the plastic (ask me how I know)!

Groot

I was going to mix it in a plastic cup!Stick out tongue  Thank you for saving me from disaster!

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by SubarooMike on Thursday, January 1, 2015 6:54 PM

MIflyer

No need to wait for the oils to dry... they can take up to a week to fully dry anyway. Let 'em sit for about an hour and then go over the surface with a paper towel or cotton bud moistened - not wet - with thinner.

In addition to thinner I usually mix in a little liquin with oils. It causes them to dry much, much faster. However, drying time is still well over 24 hours so you have all kinds of time to play around with them. Liquin is also marketed as Japan Dryer - same stuff, it just depends on what brand you find.

Awesome info; thanks! 

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Thursday, January 1, 2015 5:59 PM

A quick word of caution - don't put your oils in thin plastic cups (solo or other thin ones), preferably use a glass vessel.  The thinner will melt the plastic (ask me how I know)!

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Ypsilanti, MI
Posted by MIflyer on Thursday, January 1, 2015 4:42 PM

No need to wait for the oils to dry... they can take up to a week to fully dry anyway. Let 'em sit for about an hour and then go over the surface with a paper towel or cotton bud moistened - not wet - with thinner.

In addition to thinner I usually mix in a little liquin with oils. It causes them to dry much, much faster. However, drying time is still well over 24 hours so you have all kinds of time to play around with them. Liquin is also marketed as Japan Dryer - same stuff, it just depends on what brand you find.

Kevin Johnson    Ypsilanti, Michigan USA

On the bench: 1/72 Fujimi Ki-36 J-BAAR

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by SubarooMike on Thursday, January 1, 2015 2:55 PM

After zee oil drys, am I able to reliquify  it with the thinner?

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Thursday, January 1, 2015 2:52 PM

I've had the same issue with the Alclad clears.  Oils won't have an issue over future if you opt to use that.

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Thursday, January 1, 2015 12:29 PM

BrandonK

I have only  used artist oils and odorless turpentine for my washes and I am pleased with how they look. Up until recently I have had no trouble with them. I have learned that this combination does NOT like to play well with Alclad Klear Gloss. It causes the clear to rub off and it gets all sticky and holds onto lint and cotton fibers (I use q-tips to clean up) and that was a HUGE mess.

It looks OK, but the clean up was a nightmare. I won't be using that combo with Alclad clears again. I have used it several times with Testor's clears with no issues at all and with Future, no problems.

I am switching to Flory washes however, I just think they are safer and give a better looking result in the end. I blame Lawdog for this, it's all his fault with those "how to" builds.

Thats because Alclad Klear Kote is enamel based. You should be fine with future or Alclad's Aqua Gloss.

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Thursday, January 1, 2015 12:14 PM

I have only  used artist oils and odorless turpentine for my washes and I am pleased with how they look. Up until recently I have had no trouble with them. I have learned that this combination does NOT like to play well with Alclad Klear Gloss. It causes the clear to rub off and it gets all sticky and holds onto lint and cotton fibers (I use q-tips to clean up) and that was a HUGE mess.

It looks OK, but the clean up was a nightmare. I won't be using that combo with Alclad clears again. I have used it several times with Testor's clears with no issues at all and with Future, no problems.

I am switching to Flory washes however, I just think they are safer and give a better looking result in the end. I blame Lawdog for this, it's all his fault with those "how to" builds.

On the bench:

A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!

2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed   

                         14 / 5 / 2  

                              Tongue Tied

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Thursday, January 1, 2015 11:08 AM

I also just use my enamel model paints- usually Testors enamel, thinned with turpentine.  Works fine.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by SubarooMike on Thursday, January 1, 2015 9:31 AM

Wait -- okay.  I did some more reading and I think I comprehend.     I can use  Winsor and Newton (or others) oils mixed with  Mona Lisa Odorless thinner.   Slop it on (or pin wash it on).  All that CAN be done over and acrylic coat (Future).    My next question is: what do I remove the wash with once its dried?

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by SubarooMike on Thursday, January 1, 2015 9:19 AM

stikpusher

I like oil or enamel washes myself... Very forgiving and lots of clean up time... I thin the oils with Mona Lisa thinner, and enamels with generic hardware store thinner...

Will doing this harm my gloss coat (future) or any exposed enamel paint?   Is that similar to what Bobby Waldron is using in this video?   Skip to 30 seconds in the video to see what I'm talking about:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfsFGZbiDLM&list=PLXMRarQYThdZxfpKYf-UqCPfU5VZxJjl5

  • Member since
    April 2010
Posted by Theuns on Thursday, January 1, 2015 1:39 AM

I use acrylic drawing ink thinned with a little soap and lots of water for my pin washes, costs next to nothing and cleans off easy if the model is gloss enough  LOL

Theuns

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, January 1, 2015 12:28 AM

I like oil or enamel washes myself... Very forgiving and lots of clean up time... I thin the oils with Mona Lisa thinner, and enamels with generic hardware store thinner...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    May 2014
Homemade Wash Advice!
Posted by SubarooMike on Wednesday, December 31, 2014 11:11 PM

Hello modelers!    I am trying to avoid spending big $$ on buying a few different color washes and or pigments.  I have tried a sludge wash with: soft pastels, water, and soap with a nice effect; however, it gets a bit gritty.   Am I able to use artist oils mixed with certain things or what?  Any help would be greatly appreciated! 

Here is my sludge wash with soft pastels.  Nice effect, but a bit gritty at times and messy -- the chalk gets everywhere. 

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