Rookie needs advice for pin washing

Sounds like maybe you are not using enough wash?

Don't be afraid to load the brush and drop it in. If too much wash leaks out over the lines, use a cotton bud to wipe it. This also can give a nice weathering effect too.

Just my thoughts.

scottabe,

Your post raises two questions for me.  First, are the panel lines raised or recessed?  If they're raised, you  have to be more careful when removing the wash because the wash doesn't have anything to "hide" in.  It's a lot easier to wipe off all the wash when the detail's raised verses recessed.  If it's raised, I'd suggest wiping perpendicular to the line, and not too vigorously, to make sure you don't wipe off all the dried wash.  

Secondly, if the detail's recessed, how long are you waiting before you start to wipe off the wash?  With either raised or recessed, don't be afraid to load it on like AdeB says.  Also, make sure you your wash is completely dry before you start to wipe it off.  If it's still too wet, capillary action can pull the wash out of your lines as the paper towel runs over the line.  

If you're interested, here's a short video about Flory washes that might be helpful to you.  

Hopefully this helps.  Good luck with your builds!

Cheers,

-O

hello, scottabe.

When you will remove the wash you need to be cearful because the wash can remove some type of basic paint. for ex if you use tamiya aerosol paint.

i would recommend you for training use another wash. you need to mix 1 droplet of black guasch (or dark brown) + 1 oz water + 2 drop "Ajax" or something else for washing dishes. you can do another proportion. it depends of guasch.  and use it for wash. so it'll be easy to correct mistake or remove it by water.  I use MIG production when i'm sure that there will not be mistake. do training on the unnecessary model and you can see what would be better

It sounds like you are doing it correctly but the recessed lines are either too shallow or the rattle can paint went on too heavy. I suggest moving up to a good quality AB as it will deliver the right amount of paint.

This is how I do my pin washes. After applying the gloss coat (I use Future and apply it with a soft wide brush),t he Future levels out and dries within a few minutes. I usually brush on 3-5 light coats a few minutes apart. I use Future which is an acrylic and acts s a barrier for my home brewed turpentine and artist oil mix which flows into the recessed lines. The gloss also helps in a smooth flow. If the finish was flat, the wash has a tendency not to flow as sharp and would bleed off to the sides a bit. I find that acrylic washes don't flow as well as the solvent type even after a drop or two of Dawn soap. Some modelers like the acrylic wash so you will have to experiment to see which one you like best.

You can actually let it sit overnight if you want then come back with a  Q Tip moistened in Turp to remove the excess and create streak marks. Then shoot clear flat to kill the unwanted shine and seal if necessary.