Stripping a model down for repaint

Saw a model where Model Master flat clear lacquer was used. So far the subject of the final flat coat is the most subjective I've come across. Still got too much shine on this model.

Did it with the MF.  I read the instructions and thinned it no more than about 20%.  Clear as a bell like I'd sprayed Future.  Sprayed two more coats still clear.  Let it sit for a while and re-read the directions.  It doesn't say to "shake well' but I had shaken it.  So I checked the bottle and the there was a wad at the bottom.  SHAKE WELL!!!   I then sprayed full strength, liked the results but it really clogs the air brush after a couple of minutes of spraying.   I will continue to adjust this as I move along but in the mean time I'm finished.  Photos will follow soon.

I didn't forget the antenna.  Made one from wire and forgot to put it on....someday.

VN750

Windex is a wonder.  I use it to kill bugs.  Have used it on wasps nest but that's up close and can be painfully personal.   Cheaper than alcohol which I've also used to kill bugs.

And apparently, among Americans of Greek descent, it has the reputation of a miracle potion.  I got that idea from "My Big Fat Greek Wedding", when Michael Constantine used it for first aid and other purposes.

Windex is a wonder.  I use it to kill bugs.  Have used it on wasps nest but that's up close and can be painfully personal.   Cheaper than alcohol which I've also used to kill bugs.

I like that idea for the same reason - thanks

No soak.  I used 91% alcohol and cotton rags.  The primer was unaffected and remained.  I didn't think of soaking it but could be quicker but that's a lot of alcohol.  

VN750 - when you stripped the model with 90% alcohol did you soak it?  Or did you apply it differently?

I have a model that needs a repaint.

I have used Simple Green to strip paint with great success. Cuts through the paint, won't harm the plastic, rinses off with water, and leaves your model smelling fresh and clean!

VN,

 I want to say I thinned it (couldn't hurt, you just would need more coats), but I can't remember to be honest.

Groot

I have the Micro Flat.  Do you apply it straight or thin first?  

I've had good luck with the micro flat, MM flat, and Alclad flat all via the airbrush.  I recently used the alclad and I'm pretty much hooked on both the gloss and flat now.  You should be able to use pretty much anything on top of future.

Groot

Did the Future coat, decals, and another Future clear coat.   This is the first model I've gone the extra coats with.  Until now I had just applied the flat paint and sometimes nick it in a few places for a used look.  This model has been an exploration of techniques I need to learn to move ahead.  

Now I need to apply a flat coat and after some research realize I need to get the mixture just so or it's a semi gloss or a "dusty" coat, not flat.  I'm using Tamiya acrylics but I can go to the local Hobby Lobby for Testors or Model Master stuff if need be.  At this point I need input so's not to screw the pooch.  

What's the best way to put on a flat finish?

Been there, done that. Only I sanded it all down and was forced to re-scribe and rivet the whole plane. It was a major PITA. But, it came out good when it was done.

Nice work on the repaint, it definitely looks better.

Nice job, and nice recovery with your paint stripping.

I use the de-greaser Super Clean for stripping paint.  You can get it at WalMart for around $8 a gallon.  You can pour it in containers and use it over and over.  After a soak of anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes, it softens paint to the point where it can be scrubbed off with an old toothbrush.  Longer soaking times allow the paint to dissolve into the solution.  It's not nearly as caustic as oven cleaner (whose chief ingredient is lye), though you should still use gloves.  I use it to remove enamels as well as acrylics.

Oven cleaner is what I use.

Thanks guys.  A friend of mine who is partial to oil based enamels strips his with brake fluid.  He swears by it says it doesn't hurt the plastic.  I've been thinning my acrylic with 70% alcohol but tried the Tamiya acrylic thinner.   Need more experience with it before I know what the difference is.  Ordered a set of Scale Master decals for the bird.  

Well done.  RLMs look great.  I would lik to try this with a few of my older builds as well.  I've heard the stronger solutions, like Solvaset  or Mr. Mark (Gunze), will loosen old decals, but I've never tried it.    

Started the repaint.  I'm still behind the curve on some modeling techniques so with this Me 262,  I will be working on paint, sealing the paint which I have yet to do on any models, sealing decals, and maybe a panel line line wash but the lines and rivets are raised so who knows how that will work out.

Used Tamiya paints; Light Blue XF-23, Black Green XF-27, German Grey XF-63. Have got to do some paint touch ups. That's what has usually led me to repaint the model in the first place. This time it's an "as-is". then the Future wax, etc.

Looks great for a lindberg kit!!!