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Finished - 1:48 JU 87 G2

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  • Member since
    August 2012
Posted by AndrewW on Tuesday, April 21, 2015 7:07 AM

Thanks very much, everyone.  Mustang, I also have a Hasegawa B in the stash, I don't think her wings areas ugly, I'll just avoid the D for now

Life is hard, it's even harder when you're stupid - John Wayne.


  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Monday, April 20, 2015 10:10 PM

Yeah I've read about those wing tips. Actually same mold as the B/R short wing series, they just added to the mold for the wing extension, thus the mismatch...Italeri did the same darn thing with their B/D/G series, but the step isn't as bad..Bang Head

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Monday, April 20, 2015 10:06 PM

Excellent work Andrew...

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: State of Mississippi. State motto: Virtute et armis (By valor and arms)
Posted by mississippivol on Monday, April 20, 2015 9:47 PM

Sweet build!

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: Bent River, IA
Posted by Reasoned on Monday, April 20, 2015 9:42 PM

Very nice indeed, love the shot looking down that nasty canon barrel!

Science is the pursiut of knowledge, faith is the pursuit of wisdom.  Peace be with you.

On the Tarmac: 1/48 Revell P-38

In the Hanger: A bunch of kits

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Monday, April 20, 2015 9:16 PM

AndrewW
 I think it's the same mould as Hasegawa's D kit, but I'm not certain on that.  

Unfortunately you don't have to guess any further....it is. Still you pulled off an amazing build out of it man. Yes

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

  • Member since
    August 2012
Posted by AndrewW on Monday, April 20, 2015 8:39 PM

Thanks Nathan and mustang.  I did the weighted wheels myself, Nathan.  They're the kit wheels pressed lightly against a 100 Watt light bulb.  The wing root gap was negligable, once the dihedral was set.  The wing tips were fairly ugly, requiring 2 runs of Tamiya putty, filing, sanding and rescribing.  I think it's the same mould as Hasegawa's D kit, but I'm not certain on that.  The tips are misaligned fore and aft, high compared to the rest of the wing and twisted.  Not impossible, but probably an hours work each tip.

Life is hard, it's even harder when you're stupid - John Wayne.


  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Monday, April 20, 2015 8:24 PM

Great Job Andrew!!!! Those G-2's have a real aggressive look to them.

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Monday, April 20, 2015 8:17 PM

Very nice subject Andrew. I like ur weathering style. Very cool base and I like the look of the weighted wheels. How bad were the wing tips and the wing root join on this kit?

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Monday, April 20, 2015 4:11 PM

Thanks so much, Andrew. I also use their thinner, have a few times used just distilled water, it seemed to work well. I've noted that using their thinner has sometimes resulted in a very long complete drying time, several days in fact, so I only add a tiny amount and live with it.

I use a Badger 155, 100G and 200G, luckily have experienced no tip dry as yet, my pressures range between 12-18 psi. I mostly really like the stuff, I'm sure with more experience with it I'll get more consistent results. I mostly like how the finer details are preserved, a nice feature. I have yet to have any lifting issues when pulling masks off.

I appreciate your response, all the best.

Patrick

  • Member since
    August 2012
Posted by AndrewW on Monday, April 20, 2015 1:03 PM

I use only Vallejo's thinner, and ratios really depend on the pigment level, I find.  A darker color can take a lot more thinning than a light one.  For example, if I'm going to thin white, I will use much less thinner than if I'm going to thin a dark brown.  I try not to thin the paint in the cup beyond 1/3 thinner to 2/3 paint.  I usually shoot paints around 20 psi, I work from a bit of a distance, and I spray light and with quick motions.  If I am working up close, I work around 10 psi or less, again spraying very light and with quick motions.  

I do find I have to pay attention to the air brush nozzle tip, it dries out very easily.  I use an Aztek, but I don't think the drying problem would change with any other brush.  

Other than that, I've been playing with them for a couple of years now, and I guess have finally gotten comfortable with all their little idiosyncrasies.

Thanks for the comment.

Life is hard, it's even harder when you're stupid - John Wayne.


  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Monday, April 20, 2015 12:48 PM

Very nicely done, Andrew. Quite a project that turned out so well, thanks for posting.

Question, if you don't mind. You're Model Air finish looks so good, and I'm still just getting familiar with it, not 100% comfortable yet. Any thinning or additive mixing methods you'd care to share? Trying to be consistent with thinning, it seems I still get different spray characteristics at times.

Thanks again

Patrick

  • Member since
    August 2012
Finished - 1:48 JU 87 G2
Posted by AndrewW on Monday, April 20, 2015 12:12 PM

Thought I'd post a few photos of a piece I finished off for Bish and Stickpusher's 1945 GB.  This represents Rudel's G2 from SG2 in May of '45.  This is a Hasegawa Stuka, with Ultracast exhausts, Master cannon barrels, Eduard photo etch and mostly hand cut masking used.  I masked and painted:  the spinner spiral, balkancruz, yellow 'V', chevrons and bars.  I used a Maketar pre cut mask for the hakencruz.  The piece was painted using Vallejo Model Air and some Alclad for the exhausts, all panel lines were washed with artists oils.  Kit decals were used for the stencils.  Difficulties I encountered were having to rework the wing tips (due to Hasegawa's molding process) and replacement of the pilot's sliding canopy (as Hasegawa does not intend for it to be posed opened, I replaced this with a piece from the Tamiya / Italeri boxing).  The base is an Eduard wooden airstrip.  Comments and criticisms are always welcome.

And a detail of my paint work on the base, an attempt to represent the Nazi battle flag.

Life is hard, it's even harder when you're stupid - John Wayne.


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