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Hobbycraft XP-59

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  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Northern California
Hobbycraft XP-59
Posted by jeaton01 on Monday, September 18, 2017 5:53 PM

I've been working on this one since February, delayed by non plastic modeling activities.  The kit as it is will make a No. 3 or later XP-59 or a YP-59A, but I wanted to do the first one, as a companion to the first jets of other countries I have been doing.  That required a modified canopy because the first few had hatch type side opening canopies which later were relpaced with sliding canopies.  Markings will be simple as the prototype had no serials or anything else except for the simple stars in circles in four positions, and the paint was OD and grey.

Here's the box art for the kit I am using.  There is another available for the later versions with squared off flying surfaces.

 

The True Details cockpit set to be used:

 

 

Here the kit canopy is white glued in place so a slicone rubber mold can be made of the shape, which will be sanded down to look like the earlier side opening affair.

 

 

The silicone mold.  Plastic card and clay were used to make a dam for the mold. Silicone gets every detail.  Too bad I had to sand it all away.  On the left the reshaped and sealed canopy buck to be used for vac forming a new canopy.

 

 

These are parts 14 and 18.  They are shown installed in section 4 of the instructions. No reference is made to when they are installed. They disappear in section 5.  14 is the left splitter plate and inlet fairing, and 18 is the right..  I thinned the splitter plates quite a bit and added some plastic sheet on the bottom so they would match the inlet better.  In this photo only the one on the left has the changes.

 

 

A plate was made to fit behind the splitter plate which will form the aft end of an enlarged inlet fairing.  Photos in Steve Ginter's book on the P-59 were used as reference for this.

 

 

Aves Epoxysculpt was used to form the enlarged and reshaped engine inlet fairings.  A little cleanup still required.

 

 

A plastic card shelf was made to form a cavity for a cast nose weight.  This photo also shows some of the left cockpit which has been installed and painted using the Black Box set.  34227 was used for the cockpit base color, over black preshading.

 

 

A clay buck was formed by pressing it into the left nose area, shaped some on the right and then the right fuselage half was pressed on to get a workable shape.    A form was made with Lego blocks on a plastic base and the buck was stuck in the center.  Silicone mold material was poured into the mold.  Once cured, lead was melted into the mold from the bar shown using the propane torch.  Some filing and sanding was needed to get it to fit but not bad.  A second weight was cast as I intend to build a P-59B version later.

 

 

The right cockpit sidewall.

 

 

The finished weight.  I don't think this one will be a tailsitter.

 

John

To see build logs of my models, go here: http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

  

  • Member since
    March, 2015
  • From: Streetsboro, Ohio
Posted by Toshi on Monday, September 18, 2017 6:03 PM

Dear jeaton01,

Your scratch building as well as molding a weight by melting lead is beyond my building comprehension.  Everything looks fantastic as far as your start. I am looking forward and will be following this build closely.

Toshi

 

Retired due to work related injury

Married to the most caring, loving, understanding, and beautiful wife in the world.  Mrs. Toshi

 

On the bench

Monogram 1/48 Black Widow 1974 boxing with AM Goodies

  • Member since
    December, 2002
Posted by 7474 on Monday, September 18, 2017 7:22 PM

Where did you get the silicone to make the mold?

  • Member since
    September, 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Monday, September 18, 2017 9:14 PM

Holy cow, John!  Excellent attention to detail!  I am astounded and looking forward to your next update.

 

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/HansvonHammer/Humor/th_MonogramMafia.jpg?t=1296972087

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Monday, September 18, 2017 9:53 PM

Thanks, guys!

7474, I get the mold making material from Tap Plastics.  The instructions will tell you to use a vacuum chamber to deaerate the silicone, but that is not necessary so long as the mold box is open topped and the displaced air can escape easily as the material is poured in.  Here's the stuff:

John

To see build logs of my models, go here: http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

  

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, September 19, 2017 9:05 AM

Hobby Lobby now carries kits for resin casting.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December, 2010
  • From: Salem, Oregon
Posted by 1943Mike on Tuesday, September 19, 2017 10:23 AM

Way more than my skill set would allow me to try. I'll be following with interest.

 "I don't think this one will be a tailsitter." Big Smile No, I don't think so either! I'd only worry about whether or not the forward landing gear will take the weight.

Mike

"Le temps est un grand maître, mais malheureusement, il tue tous ses élèves."

Hector Berlioz

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Wednesday, September 27, 2017 11:06 PM

Mike, I'm far enough along now to tell that the CG is about 1/2 inch in front of the main gear, so although there is extra weight, it's not likely to be too much for the nose gear.  This lady has a buxom posterior.

Basic construction is done and the canopy is masked.  I drew up the side masks in Autocad, tracing over a photograph, and made the upper parts overlap. The eyebrow window and the main windscreen were masked with Tamiya tape, easier than trying to develop these shapes with the computer.  The drawings were imported into the Silhouette cutter software, and the masks were cut from Oramask 810 vinyl.  It was necessary to remove some material from the upper wing halves to get the proper dihedal angle, otherwise the wings would have been too flat and not pretty.  Some sanding and filling was required here and there, but not too much, no blue air was created.  My canopy sits just the slightest bit too high, but I think a little filler will disguise the flaw.  I'm using 34227 for the gear and wells, my guess for Bell green.

 

 

John

To see build logs of my models, go here: http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

  

  • Member since
    March, 2015
  • From: Streetsboro, Ohio
Posted by Toshi on Thursday, September 28, 2017 2:27 AM

Looking good, it seems the painting isn’t that far off.

Toshi

 

Retired due to work related injury

Married to the most caring, loving, understanding, and beautiful wife in the world.  Mrs. Toshi

 

On the bench

Monogram 1/48 Black Widow 1974 boxing with AM Goodies

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Thursday, September 28, 2017 2:31 AM

Don't think i have ever seen one of those built before, nice looking aircraft. Some really nice work there John, some great detail.

 ''I am a Norfolk man, and I glory in being so''

  

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/32nd Ju 87G-2

  • Member since
    April, 2016
  • From: Parsons Kansas
Posted by Hodakamax on Thursday, September 28, 2017 10:42 AM

Hey John. I just ran across this as I've been distracted lately. The project is looking good!

Max

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Friday, September 29, 2017 11:48 AM

Love how she's coming John! 

Guess I've never really given Hobbycraft kits a chance, you're proving how good they can look with a big of extra work. Yes

"Fairy tales do not tell children the dragons exist. Children already know that dragons exist. Fairy tales tell children that dragons can be killed." -G.K. Chesterton

 

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Friday, September 29, 2017 8:50 PM

Thanks, Gamera, Max, Martin, and Toshi.  As Toshi surmised, painting was not far off.  Model Master ANA 613 OD and Neutral Grey were used.  The color demarcation was very loose, lots of blending, so I free handed it.  I went back and forth a bunch of times until it looked about right.  There will be a lot of work to get the proper worn appearance.  The desert heat, dust, and very frequent maintenance brought that about quickly, according to what I have read in the Ginter book and elsewhere.

This one of the better Hobbycraft kits, with nice fine but distinct panel lines.  Less of an empty canvas than many are, and good shapes.  Best to judge them case by case, I think.

 

 

 

John

To see build logs of my models, go here: http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

  

  • Member since
    December, 2010
  • From: Salem, Oregon
Posted by 1943Mike on Friday, September 29, 2017 11:10 PM

John,

Your painting skills show through well. Looks like a fine build so far.

Mike

"Le temps est un grand maître, mais malheureusement, il tue tous ses élèves."

Hector Berlioz

  • Member since
    June, 2013
Posted by bvallot on Wednesday, October 04, 2017 1:14 PM

I love it John! Very much a fan of the ingenuity. I'll have to remember that one. =]

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Wednesday, October 04, 2017 11:09 PM

Thanks, Mike and Britt.

I'm painting on the insignia now.  I despair of ever figuring out how to accurately line up the fuselage stars with the axis of the fuselage.  You'll all just have to have lazy eye alignment.

John

To see build logs of my models, go here: http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

  

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Friday, October 06, 2017 10:33 PM

Okay, in the photos I see that I once again failed to paint the position lights, I guess the desert dust has covered them up in these pictures.  Another thing that I see is that it would be better if the main struts were shortened about 3/32 inch to match the stance on the photo of the airplane.  I'll fix that when I build the P-59B version, maybe I'll fix these then too but I don't want to right now.  The insignia were painted using masks cut with my Silhouette Cameo vinyl cutter.  Flat White was sprayed first, then Insignia White.  Then, the star stencil was put in place.  Insignia Blue was applied.  After a minimum curing time the masks were removed.  I could see some white edge outside the blue when looking from the side even though the outer stencil had not been moved until all painting was done, just the thickness of the paint was all I was seeing but it was noticeable.  More circles were cut, this time solid, no cutouts for the stars.  Once applied the surrounding colors were sprayed and that  took care of the problem.  I suppose that is going to be how to do it in cases where the white has to be as large as the blue, as in this case where there are no bars on the insignia, nor the usual blue extra edge that covered up the short lived red perimeter.
 
I am very happy with how the overall model looks, and with the canopy and its framing.  There is no clear coat, once I had all the paint on and cured, I sanded the whole model with 2500 sandpaper, insignia and all.  The sanding dust was wiped down a little and there you are.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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John

To see build logs of my models, go here: http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

  

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, October 06, 2017 10:56 PM

Looks very sharp! You did some great work on this project. What made you decide to paint the National insignia instead of use decals? 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Saturday, October 07, 2017 12:17 AM

Thank you, Stik.  The kit decals were all for later star and bar markings and I didn't have any of the correct insignia in the proper sizes.  I could have made the markings as decals with my ALPS printer but in 1/48 I like the result better with stencils and paint. In the long run it also was less work as in this case there were no other markings so I escaped the usual clear and flat coats.

John

To see build logs of my models, go here: http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

  

  • Member since
    June, 2013
Posted by bvallot on Saturday, October 07, 2017 9:56 AM

I was thinking the same thing...very sharp. This is simple and solid John. I really, really like this. Construction looks great. Painting looks great. The feathering of that OD looks great. Insignia is right on. It's really nice to look at. =] And it's not your typical build you see. It's fun getting to see something new. 

 

  • Member since
    June, 2013
Posted by bvallot on Saturday, October 07, 2017 9:59 AM

I do see what you're talking about with the white creeping out. Easy fix. Just cut you a circle mask and in light coats put your OD back down. Your mask has to be perfect though and right on the money. 

You can do it! =]

  • Member since
    June, 2013
Posted by bvallot on Saturday, October 07, 2017 10:00 AM

Deleted double post. 

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Sunday, October 08, 2017 4:52 PM

Thanks, Britt.  I did do as you said, now there is just the top of the left fuselage insignia that has a tiniest bit of white showing.  Perhaps when I shorten the landing gear I will attend to that.  Right now it's off to other models, the Monogram B-26, and an F-80.

John

To see build logs of my models, go here: http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

  

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, October 09, 2017 6:37 AM

Thats really nicely done John, nicely finished and great job on the markings.

I do like the look of that, sleak looking aircraft.

 ''I am a Norfolk man, and I glory in being so''

  

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/32nd Ju 87G-2

  • Member since
    June, 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Monday, October 09, 2017 9:00 AM

What a great kit. So smooth and wonderful. That's a very elegant looking plane. Well done.

BK

On the bench: 2x Monogram 1/48 Kingfishers with cockpits and floats, full kit overhauls each

1/32 Kitty Hawk OS2U Kingfisher

  • Member since
    April, 2013
  • From: Eleva, Wisconsin
Posted by Greatmaker on Tuesday, October 10, 2017 10:28 AM

Beautiful build and an interesting plane. Top notch all the way. I like the idea of a blow torch.  Would have been tempted on my last build

Vir: I think you should feel happy. 
Londo: Yes perhaps. But every time I have been happy the universe has conspired to do something nasty to me

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, October 10, 2017 11:48 AM

She looks perfect to me John! Yes

"Fairy tales do not tell children the dragons exist. Children already know that dragons exist. Fairy tales tell children that dragons can be killed." -G.K. Chesterton

 

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Tuesday, October 10, 2017 2:29 PM

Thanks, everyone!

John

To see build logs of my models, go here: http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

  

AT6
  • Member since
    December, 2005
  • From: Fresno
Posted by AT6 on Friday, October 13, 2017 12:30 PM

It turned out extremely well.

  • Member since
    July, 2016
Posted by Johnny1000 on Friday, October 13, 2017 2:24 PM

Wow. It looks really sharp. And as others have mentioned, it's great to see a less familiar subject. Also, the vacuforming, lead melting, scratch building, and other manual processes are really inspiring. 

Thanks so much. (Now I want to go cast something...)

-J

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