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B-17C/D W.I.P. ...

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  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Sunday, November 26, 2017 8:10 AM

I hadn't thought about that, you know, painting the rudder first. I know that the Alclad is easy to mask after it goes down and then cures, so I'l do that then. I'll be doing one the the P-36's (maybe both of them) and the B-17 in NMF with the red, white and blue rudder.

As for "diving right in," having been out of the hobby as long as you have been in the hobby, I have a lot of time to make up.

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Sunday, November 26, 2017 8:11 AM

Top 'O the page! A round of IBC root beers for everyone!

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Sunday, November 26, 2017 12:17 PM

Building up the wings today on the B-17. Went to Harbor Freight to get some plastic clamps to help in the effort. 99¢ for six. 69¢ for a couple of larger clamps. Not bad.

  • Member since
    September, 2005
  • From: North Pole, Alaska
Posted by richs26 on Monday, November 27, 2017 12:37 AM

fotofrank

I don't know if this was the case or not way back when, but since this B-17is unarmed, I filled the opening in the gun tub with styrene to close up the big hole.

 


 

 

Actually, Frank, the bathtub opening has a plexiglass cover so the gunner can see what is  behind even when it is unarmed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycPmZ85xn5M&t=151s

 

WIP:  Monogram 1/72 B-26 (Snaptite) as 73rd BS B-26, 40-1408, torpedo bomber attempt on Ryujo

Monogram 1/72 B-26 (Snaptite) as 22nd BG B-26, 7-Mile Drome, New Guinea

Minicraft 1/72 B-24D as LB-30, AL-613, "Tough Boy", 28th Composite Group

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Monday, November 27, 2017 5:14 AM

Thanks, Richs26. Maybe I have a piece of clear plastic I can put in there instead.

Swoosie Kurtz's dad, Frank Kurtz, piloted the Swoose. 

https://www.thefreelibrary.com/FRANK+KURTZ%2C+%60SWOOSE%27+PILOT+AND+OLYMPIC+DIVER%2C+AT+85.-a084002143

 

  • Member since
    January, 2015
Posted by GreenStyrene48 on Monday, November 27, 2017 8:19 AM

I saw a picture of MD 105 on the ground showing it doesn't have the belly gun position attached.  Haven't seen it online but it's on a Jeff Ethell book called Bomber Command.

 

Found a copy online:

http://www.anigrand.com/images/items/AA4087_B-17B/AA4087_B-17B_real-2.jpg 

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Monday, November 27, 2017 8:37 AM

Thanks, GreenStyrene. Not having the gun tub on the underside saves me a lot of work.

I met Jeff Ethell many years ago at the TICO Warbird Airshow, when the group that is now the VAC was still part of the CAF. I think he was writing an article on the airshow for Air Classics magazine.

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Monday, November 27, 2017 8:49 AM

I just now found two more pictures of MD105 by doing a Google image search. Apparently, the gun tub was not installed on this particular airplane. Good to know. The finished model will have a much sleeker appearance. Thanks, GreenStyrene. I do need to move the Commander's Bubble to the right though.

Man! Photobucket is such a P.I.T.A.!

  • Member since
    August, 2013
Posted by Jay Jay on Monday, November 27, 2017 1:14 PM

That Swoosie Kurtz article was just fascinating and TY so much for posting that.

I wonder if the real airplane was actually mottled in appearance or is that just how it looks because of some kind of photographic anomally.

 

 

 

 

 

 I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.

  • Member since
    April, 2004
Posted by Jon_a_its on Monday, November 27, 2017 2:06 PM

Not to hijack your thread...

Info request for B17f interior pics & EXTERIOR Lights info,

According to the Monogram B17G instructions, this was lit up like a Christmas tree…. See where I’m going with this?

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Monday, November 27, 2017 2:26 PM

Jon_a_its

Not to hijack your thread...

Info request for B17f interior pics & EXTERIOR Lights info,

According to the Monogram B17G instructions, this was lit up like a Christmas tree…. See where I’m going with this?

 

 

 

No. Not quite sure what you're asking.

The airplane has lots of exterior lights?

  • Member since
    September, 2016
Posted by Retired In Kalifornia on Monday, November 27, 2017 9:02 PM

Excellent work in progress. This isn't intended as thread crashing but anytime I read about "Sharktail" B-17 model builds memory arrows directly to that May 1966 Scale Modeler Magazine article about Boeing B-17 variants, including a two-page feature of Robert O'Hara's "Return Of The Swoose" B-17D conversion based on now venerable, perpetually re-released 1/64 Lindberg B-17G kit:

Mister O'Hara goes into considerable detail regarding the build, including finding research material about "Sharktails", in the mid-1960s it was hard to come by but thanks to the Internet is very readily available today. O'Hara uses parts from number of contemporary models some of which are mentioned in the image above to construct what certainly is amongst the earliest styrene plastic renderings of a B-17D seen in print.

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Wednesday, November 29, 2017 10:23 AM

Starting to mask the clear parts today. I dipped them in Pledge a week or so ago. Now the really difficult part -- masking all of those 1/72 scale clear parts. I don't know how long it took to maks the turtleback window, maybe 30-45 minutes. Eraser shield, #11 x-acto blade and pointed tweezers. Plus my Optivisor. Since I had cataract surgery, I can't see anything closer than my hand unaided.


  • Member since
    December, 2013
  • From: Orlando Florida
Posted by route62 on Wednesday, November 29, 2017 11:54 AM

I hear you on the 1/72 masking.  I also have to use all the same tools and magnifiers.  Not a necessary step but an option since 1/72 clear parts are so hard to mask and fix if you have any bleed thru.

After you have masked all your clear parts, consider shooting them with another thin coat of future with your airbrush.  This will seal the edges of the masking tape with the first coat of future and insure a crisp edge and no bleed thru.  Do not re dip in future as this is too thick a coat of future.

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Wednesday, November 29, 2017 12:03 PM

Thanks, Route62. So much great information.

I might call on you when it comes time to do the nose glass!

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Wednesday, November 29, 2017 12:33 PM

Here are the waist windows. Whew! Time for break and then the canopy(?).


  • Member since
    December, 2013
  • From: Orlando Florida
Posted by route62 on Wednesday, November 29, 2017 4:05 PM

I hope you don't mind some critique.  I know how important this build is for you to get it right.  I saw a few issues in your masking that I circled in the pic below.  The masking tape does not seem to line up from one piece to the next and there looks to be some gaps.  I would hate for you to pull the masking off after painting only to find these issues and have to correct later, expecially if the part is attached to fuselage.

The metal templates I have may offer better shapes to cut out the masking tape to better match the shape of the framing.  Let me know if want to arrange to meet up over the weekend to tackle this.

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Sunday, December 03, 2017 4:59 PM

As a result of the above post, I re-masked the waist windows and turtle-back clear parts on the B-17 today. Route62 was a big help today, supplying templates for me to use to cut the masking tape to the correct size and shape to fit the windows. Route62 has been a big help since I've gotten back into the hobby. All the stuff I used to know he's helping me re-learn.

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Monday, December 04, 2017 1:16 PM

Doing some more masking of clear parts today and I'm moving the commander's blister over to the right so it will be directly over the right rear seat on the flight deck.

  • Member since
    April, 2004
Posted by Jon_a_its on Tuesday, December 05, 2017 3:47 AM

fotofrank

No. Not quite sure what you're asking.

The airplane has lots of exterior lights?

 

 
From help & info from many others, there are 21 external lights on an F, just an idea to spruce up the otherwise lacklustre Revell 1/48th kit. Wink

Sometimes my ambition exceeds my knowledge... Wink  But that's how we learn, eh?
  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Tuesday, December 05, 2017 2:19 PM

Ambition exceeding knowledge! man, I know how that feels. Happens to me all the time.

Like now: I'm putting the clear parts on the B-17 because some of the parts will be easier to mask after they are attached, like the nose, etc. I put the canopy on and the clear part for the turtl-back. The turtle-back had tabs to catch the part so it wouldn't fall into the fuselage and it was successfully glued in place. The waist windows are different. No tabs. Just a flush fit. I thought I could use tape to hold them in place for glue but that won't work. The window still sinks into the fuselage. It doesn't remain flush. I think I'm going to try to fashion some tabs out of styrene that will support the windows so I can glue them in. Of all the reviews I read on this kit, this problem was never discussed. Sure wish I'd known about that before I closed up the fuselage.




  • Member since
    December, 2013
  • From: Orlando Florida
Posted by route62 on Tuesday, December 05, 2017 2:34 PM

I second your idea of styrene tabs on the inside to support the clear part.  Even if the tape did work, many times due to capilary action, the glue will follow the tape up and down the fuselage creating ridges on the fuselage, or worse possibly create issues on your clear parts.  Also the glue may interact poorly with the tape adhesive causing more issues.

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Tuesday, December 05, 2017 2:39 PM

I need to get the turtle-back clear part out. It's glued in with Testors liquid cement. It needs to be painted black on the inside. As I put the tabs in for the waist windows I'll paint the inside of the waist windows black.

  • Member since
    December, 2013
  • From: Orlando Florida
Posted by route62 on Tuesday, December 05, 2017 3:12 PM

The turtle part is the bubble that goes over one of the seats?  Is the main canopy attached to the fuselage?  I have some ideas based on your answers.

 

  • Member since
    March, 2015
  • From: Streetsboro, Ohio
Posted by Toshi on Thursday, December 07, 2017 2:53 AM

Looking to your build for inspiratio!  Great job!

Your friend Toshi

 

Retired due to work related injury

Married to the most caring, loving, understanding, and beautiful wife in the world.  Mrs. Toshi

 

ON THE BENCH:

Revell B-17G Flying Fortress 

NEXT BUILD:

Mrs. Toshi just purchased for me a Tamiya 1/48 Ki-61 via eBay, when it arrives, as always, I’ll do a WIP.  Thanks to M.Brindos and Model Maniac for the heads up and the inspiration in obtaining this kit for my next build.

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Thursday, December 07, 2017 3:29 PM

Toshi, thanks for the vote of confidence. Right now I'm not really feeling "it." This B-17 is a struggle every step of the way. And to think I want to do another one of these kits as the "Mary Ann" from the movie Air Force. Anyway, it never occurred to me that after the turtle-back glass and the waist windows are in you can look right down into the airplane and see the gray plastic inside. Well, the turtle-back glass is already glued in and I need to paint the inside black to hide the interior. I'll do the same with the waist windows.


I rigged a Q-tip to a coffee stirrer. I should be able to reach through the waist windows and swab the turtle-back glass with black paint to hide the interior. Man-o-man, necessity is a mother...of invention. Wish me luck.

 

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Thursday, December 07, 2017 4:53 PM

John

To see build logs of my models, go here: http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

  

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Saturday, December 09, 2017 11:01 AM

SUCCESS!! I taped a Q-tip to a wooden stick that reached from the waist windows to the turtle-back window. It worked like a charm. I feel so much better now. I dipped the Q-tip in MM flat black acrylic, reached through tthe waist window and swabbed the Turtle-back window. The procedure worked so well. Now the gray inside plastic is hidden from view. Now I need to glue in the styrene tabs to hold the waist windows and this build can really get a move on! The two little white dots over the flight deck are the holes I filled because I'm moving the commander's blister to the right so it will be over the right rear seat, just like the picture I'm using as my guide!


  • Member since
    December, 2013
  • From: Orlando Florida
Posted by route62 on Saturday, December 09, 2017 2:24 PM

Glad to see it worked!  The hole you had to fill on the top of the clear part, will that be painted over?  If that is supposed to remain clear, instead of filling with white filler, you may want to fill it with a glue that dries clear.

  • Member since
    June, 2010
  • From: Rochester, New York USA
Posted by rocker286 on Saturday, December 09, 2017 3:33 PM

Now THAT'S ingenuity! Great job so far on your Fortress. I am starting a B-17G tonight and decided to take a stroll throught the aircraft forum to see if anyone else had a B-17 build going. Can't wait to see what you do with yours! 

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