Very old REVELL B52 WIP

You might want to take a needle or similar object to clean the putty out of the panel lines on the stabilizers.

I may be wrong but it appears that you are using a too course grade of sandpaper to start. I can see some really deep scratches in your model that may be hard to get out and cause you more unecessary work.  Have you tried using files for this operation ?  I've found that files take down the flaws pretty quick and don't leave terrible scratch marks or gouges in the plastic. Of course sandpaper is the only way sometimes and you have to take care not to use  too aggressive of a grade.

A suggestion. Mask the seams as closely as you can to the crack before you putty. Just putting it on in a freehand way creates all kinds of unneeded extra work, and it's leading to a lot of collateral damage.

Bill

No aftermarket for this baby. It's a box scale, about 1:175.

Thanks for the view and comment Carlos.  I do appreciate any comments and constructive critiques.  I didn't even notice that till I uploaded the pics.  You are right.  I need to do that.  In future, I will try not to get it there in the first place.  

Jay Jay

I may be wrong but it appears that you are using a too course grade of sandpaper to start. I can see some really deep scratches in your model that may be hard to get out and cause you more unecessary work.  Have you tried using files for this operation ?  I've found that files take down the flaws pretty quick and don't leave terrible scratch marks or gouges in the plastic. Of course sandpaper is the only way sometimes and you have to take care not to use  too aggressive of a grade.

 

No Jay Jay, you are exactly right.  I need some needle files.  I have been using the tiny sanding sticks from Alpha Abrasives.  I started with the roughest one I had, (100) and I worked my way to 320.  I noticed the gouges left behind from previous labor ops.  Mental note:  Don't do that again.  I will for sure change my methods in future.  

Thanks for the view and the comment.  

GMorrison

A suggestion. Mask the seams as closely as you can to the crack before you putty. Just putting it on in a freehand way creates all kinds of unneeded extra work, and it's leading to a lot of collateral damage.

 

Bill

 

Thanks Bill for the suggestion.  I will take that to heart.  I can see how that would be a big help.  "Collateral damage".  Yikes.  Don't need any of that.  I appreciate the constructive comment.  I am sure the new method will yield great dividends.  

Hey Mark.. I found ya. You can not be in better hands than with this group. Fantastic people, and modelers. There has been some excellent advice already. 

You picked a tough model for sure. But, like already said, it is an opportunity to grow, BIG TIME. I love your enthusiasm. It is refreshing. I'd probably be poking my eyes out by now over some of this stuff.

Keep it up! I'll be watching this cool plane come together. 

Bakster

I had that one way back- consolation prize for spending the weekend with grandparents, from a favorite uncle.

i like the idea of SAC silver over white- General Turgidson approves.

GMorrison

I had that one way back- consolation prize for spending the weekend with grandparents, from a favorite uncle.

i like the idea of SAC silver over white- General Turgidson approves.

 

 

Silver over White has a purity of essence...

Major Kong’s aircraft was the second one in a movie to be named “Leper Colony”.

Which was the first?

Bonus question- what was the name of the B-52 in the book?

Strangelove trivia, yippee !

I did the Academy 1/72 B52 for my son-in-law for christmas last year the instruction showed 4 paint schems. One was 3 color combo the one I did then was one bottom half of air craft painted black top half battle ship gray and then 2 all gray schems.     ACESES5              

I read the book over fifty years ago, but I recall it was named Alabama Angel. 

There were two camouflage schemes following the initial natural metal over white; the SIOP (single integrated operating plan) three color camo on top with white undersides, used by SAC for nuclear alert, and the modified South East Asia  three color camo on top but with black undersides used by the D models that carried out most of the conventional bomb raids over Vietnam. I don’t have the references handy,  but I believe the SIOP and SEA schemes used different colors from each other for the top camo.

The current gray camo was only used on the the short tail G and H models.

The SIOP and SEA B-52s used the same topside colors. The main difference was the bottom color, and the vertical tail. On the SIOP scheme, it was in the upper surface colors, while the SEA B-52s had that area in black. Also the demarcation line between the upper and lower colors was in different locations: low for SIOP and high for SEA.

Correct For Alabama Angel.

original Leper Colony? Come on Carlos, you know this 

Bakster

Hey Mark.. I found ya. You can not be in better hands than with this group. Fantastic people, and modelers. There has been some excellent advice already. 

You picked a tough model for sure. But, like already said, it is an opportunity to grow, BIG TIME. I love your enthusiasm. It is refreshing. I'd probably be poking my eyes out by now over some of this stuff.

Keep it up! I'll be watching this cool plane come together. 

Bakster

 

Hey Bakster, 

Thanks for following along. 

I am glad that the guys have helped me.  I have received some great information. 

I think the model saw me coming a mile away and said "HIM, I'll get that guy!"  It did not escape me that after the word "opportunity", the words "big time" were in all caps.  It's OK.  I'm having fun.

Mark

Thanks guys for commenting on my build and mentoring the project.  I also enjoy the contributions regarding paint schemes, history, and the plane in general.  I find it fascinating that the B-52 has made an impression upon almost everyone in some way.  

Keep those posts coming!

Best regards to all.

Mark

mmthrax

It did not escape me that after the word "opportunity", the words "big time" were in all caps.  It's OK.  I'm having fun.

Oh........................ MAN! I didn't mean it that way. I just mean that the older kits are often made to some very questionable standards. Heck--even many newer kits too. A person has to work really hard to make them into something nicer than what they gave you. I worked on a few older kits and man... I spent most of my time trying to fix the stupid defects. My point then was this. Overcoming those defects is what really hones a persons skills... BIG TIME.  It puts you on the fast track. Get it! Got it? Good!  

No problem sir.  That is exactly how the message was received.  The model is a BIG TIME OPPORTUNITY for me to get up to speed because of the extra work involved.  Like they say, (whoever they are) "Smooth seas don't make for skillful sailors."  

I am having fun because I am doing all this extra work and learning as I go.  I am also amused at the mistakes I am making and "chalking it up" as my mom says.  It is a bit of a comedy of errors at times as I think "What did I just do?", but as long as it doesn't devolve into a tragedy of errors I should be ok.  

Thank you for your support.  It does mean a lot.

Phew... you scared me. Nearly kicked me out of my cold med coma! That was funny though. That is something that I would have said! Lol. 

Keep having fun with it Mark. That's what it's all about. The rest will follow.

GMorrison

Correct For Alabama Angel.

original Leper Colony? Come on Carlos, you know this 

 

Why that was the Air Execs ship in 12 O’Clock High

That's right.

Great build, Mark!  I like that you have the right attitude about building this old kit.  You're learning lessons to carry on to your next build, but you're having fun.

Your suspicion about the age of the kit is right, too.  That one was first issued in 1954 (holy cow!) and I think the original had decal locators ("idiot markers", a more colorful name).  It's a box scale kit; Thomas Graham lists it as 1/175 in his "Remember Revel Model Kits".

Regarding sanding, I start with paper around 180 grit for utility work, like the first pass on a puttied seam.  I use finer grits, like 400, to clean up, but I also use a set of polishing pads for really clean sanding.  The set I have starts at 1200 and goes through seven or eight successively finer grits, down to 3000.

I look forward to seeing your next post on this one!

Thanks baron,  I appreciate you sharing your methods.  It is all helpful.  "Decal locators".  Hmm.  That is interesting.  This has been an experience, and I am learning.  What not to do as much as what to do.  It's cool.  Should have another update in a little while.

Thanks to you too roger, that is great info.  This particular model I will be doing in natural over white, but I have another that I was thinking of doing in camo.  This information is helpful.  I appreciate you reaching out.

Hi;

 I know you'll get a lot of input here . Here's Mine ! I would carve the aft clear piece from a square of plastic . Perhaps a tooth-brush handle .  The ones I have seen at Little Rock AFB were a Medium Aircraft grey with a White or Somewhat light tan bottom .

 I actually think the Camo version looks meaner especially with the Black Bottom ! 

Tanker - Builder

 I would carve the aft clear piece from a square of plastic . Perhaps a tooth-brush handle .   

 I actually think the Camo version looks meaner especially with the Black Bottom ! 

 

Thanks TB.  That is a great idea.  I got some .007 acetate and I was going to try to work with that.  The toothbrush has much better possibilities I think.  

I also like the camo too.  Planning on a camo model later.

I found the reference I was thinking of, and you are correct, the topside SIOP camo was the same for both camo schemes; Tan FS34201, Olive Green FS34159, Dark Green FS34079. The reference I am using is a  profile by Phil Kirchmeier in the September 1993 issue of FSM. I cross checked the pattern he published against photos I took of the planes when I was in SAC, and they match, with only a little bit of variance in the demarcation lines from plane to plane as you would expect from hand applied paint jobs.

Note 1: The FSM profile is for a short tail G model like the ones I photographed. The D models had a higher tail so the partterns on the tail would be different in the original camo, while the ones used over Vietnam had the whole tail fin in black.

Note 2: The colors as they are reproduced in the magazine printing process are off. The FS numbers are the correct colors to use.

This is great info.  Thanks a lot!!