SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

1945 GB

95349 views
1851 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Cincinnati Ohio
Posted by DantheMan85 on Wednesday, September 23, 2015 9:08 AM

Thanks Nomad53, they can be overwhelming. Just got to put the glue in the right place.

Thanks Bish

Thanks Greentracker98, I think your figures and jeep look great.

Ebergerud: Nice paint chipping on your Zero.

Thanks Stikpusher, When I started gluing them up it felt like it was going to take forever. Roughly 308 parts together, 154 per side.

Thanks BrandonD.

Welcome aboard BrandonK.

 

Well I'm at the camouflage stage with my Hetzer, I tried free hand with both my airbrushes and there was just to much over spray. I turned the PSI down to 10 and 8, then I thinned the paint more than I usual do. But that didn't work out so I went with soft masking using paper cut outs with rolled up tape on the back. And silly putty for the tougher areas to mask. I airbrushed Tamiya XF64 Red Brown on about 8 to 10 PSI and thinned the paint down more than usual. I'll be going back over it today.  I did paint the side skirts but forgot to photograph them.

 

And getting the Easy Eight closer to the primer stage.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On my Work Bench: Tamiya Ford GT 1/24

Up Coming: ?

           

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Thursday, September 24, 2015 11:49 AM
Like the look of that scheme Dan. Nice work.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Thursday, September 24, 2015 3:20 PM

Well, I am making headway. I painted the cockpit with some Tamiya XF-58 and X-2, 5:1, for Field Green because I misplaced my MM Field Green. Then found it when I was done, but I hit the color right on the nose with my mix. Lucky!!

I hand painted all the switches and buttons using photos from old F6's. I could have used decals throughout, but I find painting it looks better most times. I did use the instruments decal though, the kit was light on detail there so the decal was needed. I think it came out great.

I also painted the forward bulkhead and engine supports and laid them in the fuselage halves to see how it will all fit. No issues and the fit is great. This kit is very nice and of great quality and super good fit, so far. 

I finished it all up with a light dry brushing of silver on the seat, controls and fuselage where the pilot climbs in and out. Again, I think it looks just right. I wish I had a set of seat belts, but I don't feel like buying any and I am not good at making them, so I'll just have to do without this time.

Based on where I am now the kit should really start to move along quite quickly. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for looking.

BK

On the bench:

A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!

2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed   

                         14 / 5 / 2  

                              Tongue Tied

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Cincinnati Ohio
Posted by DantheMan85 on Saturday, September 26, 2015 10:12 PM

Thanks Bish.

BrandonK: Great detail work on the cockpit.

 

Decided to hand brush on Tamiya XF61 Dark Green around the XF64 Red Brown.  I thinned the dark green down to airbrush consistency.  I'll be applying it in many coats, to build it up slowly.  Not sure if the exhaust is painted with the camouflage or something else.  Also have the Easy Eight ready for primer now.

On my Work Bench: Tamiya Ford GT 1/24

Up Coming: ?

           

 

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Saturday, September 26, 2015 10:22 PM

DantheMan85

Thanks Bish.

BrandonK: Great detail work on the cockpit.

 

Decided to hand brush on Tamiya XF61 Dark Green around the XF64 Red Brown.  I thinned the dark green down to airbrush consistency.  I'll be applying it in many coats, to build it up slowly.  Not sure if the exhaust is painted with the camouflage or something else.  Also have the Easy Eight ready for primer now.

 

Man that is looking great.

BK

 

On the bench:

A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!

2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed   

                         14 / 5 / 2  

                              Tongue Tied

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Cincinnati Ohio
Posted by DantheMan85 on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 5:28 PM

Thanks Brandon K. 

I airbrushed Model Master primer today on the Easy Eight, and it exposed some little gaps that I'll fill in after the primer is dry.

 

On my Work Bench: Tamiya Ford GT 1/24

Up Coming: ?

           

 

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: Oil City, PA
Posted by greentracker98 on Thursday, October 1, 2015 7:24 PM

Update: My drywall is toast. I put it aside for a few days and when I went back to it, it was really dry. The cobblestones were falling completely apart. It would have been way too much damage to it. I guess the trick to it is to keep it damp.

So, I will be getting a new piece of drywall and I will go from there.

Bish, I wish I had seen your "resin is brittle" post before. I tried to cut the blanket away from the wounded guy on the Mash chopper. The cutters broke through the blanket and took his arm with it. I have yet to find it. Anyway, I found another arm for him. I amputated the medics arm and put it on the wounded guy. It's not as good, but It will work.

A.K.A. Ken                Making Modeling Great Again

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Friday, October 2, 2015 7:44 AM

Hi Ho Gentlemen. I regret that I have been woefully inactive here as of late. With the temps. cooling of a bit here in the desert it's hard not to spend the majority of my time outside. This is also the time of year when our friends and family love to come and spend time in our beautiful town and National Parks so, that lends to some major distractions from the bench. Couple all of this with haveing to replace a water heater the past few days this leaves preciuous little time time for chatting and building. Thank God I have a sizeable stash since I won't be adding to it for a while after having to fork out the dough for the water heater.

There certainly has been some very impressive work going on here in the last while and surely want to give my kudos where it is deserved.

Dan: First, I applaud your skill and patience associated with putting the track links together. I have a partially built Tamiya Tiger and the individual track links is what kind of brought me to a stand still. I'll buckle up here one day and tackle that task. Your paint on the Hetzer is very nicely done. I love it. I also love Silly Putty.

Ken:Appears to me that your dio is coming out splendidly. Sorry to here about the issues with the drywall as your cobblestones looked great to me. Certainly an interesting concept you have there. I sell drywall t our hardware store and never gave any thought to using it in that manner. Stay with it. I know that you will overcome the mishaps you are encountering.

Brandon: I love that you are building the Hobby Boss F6F. I've never built a Hobby Boss kit and it is great to see you throwing this one out to us. Your cockpit is absolutely excellent and it is quite a shame that you have opted to go sans the seat belts as that would set off some already magnificent work.

Eric: What can I say except, WOW! The metal chipping effect you have achieved is definitely quite realistic. Excellent work indeed.

Despite the ditractions I have picked at the P-47 here and there. I've been painting the interior fuselage details necessary prior to closing it up. I've also started adding the Eduard PE detail to the landing gear bays. Although the Tamiya bays are already nicely detailed the PE definitely adds to it.

Looking forward to further awesome activity from you all.

        Joe

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Friday, October 2, 2015 12:46 PM

I gotta tell you guys that this Hobby Boss kit is just fantastic. It fits together beautifully and has nearly no flash to clean up. I am so impressed with the quality of this kit I will not hesitate to get another one and buy other HB kits in the future. Truly stunning quality here.

Okay, moving along now. I have the fuselage closed up and couldn't quite get rid of the seam to my liking so I used some Mr Surfacer 500 in the spots I could catch with my finger nail and smoothed it down. Once I primer I shouldn't have any seams showing.

I do have one issue with the kit that I think they could have avoided. Where the lower wing assembly attaches to the belly of the plane is an access panel and a panel line. In building the kit they could have made this seperation AT the panel line, but they made it at the PANEL instead and this gives you a seam that is not necessary and will require some work to remove it from view. 

With some work and to applications of Mr Surfacer 500 I was able to make the seam disappear and retain the panel and the panel line detail. Again, simply moving this in the design would have completely eliminated this issue.

Here are some shots of what the work looks like now that I am done polishing the surface smooth.

On the bench:

A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!

2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed   

                         14 / 5 / 2  

                              Tongue Tied

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Friday, October 2, 2015 1:09 PM

This update is gonna be a tad lenghty, but some folks keep asking me how I do the Nav light Mod. SO, I took extra pictures this time and I will explain it in better detail. 

Each time I do this I am blown away by how good it looks when done. Painted Nav lights just don't help the kit, any kit, look real, it kills the effect. I saw this technique somewhere that I just can't remember, so I am not taking credit for figureing it out, but I have done it several time now I am love the results.

Here goes. You will need to remove the area of the wing that is the Nav light using whatever means you like. I have cut them out, I've filed them off and this time I used sprue cutters and then filed it clean. Basically you only want to remove the LENS of the Nav lights and nothing more.

Once you have the cutouts cleaned up, drill a small hole in the center of the opening to hold just a dab of red or green paint. I use Tamiya X-7 and X-15, I find they give the best color for the lamps when lit. Let the paint dry completley. You can see the sprue I have cut and shaped in the shot with the paints.

Once the paint is good and dry you will need to cut clear sprue about 1/4 inch long, you need two. Using a flat sanding board place a flat spot along the cut sprue and then turn the sprue 90 degrees and do it again. This is the tricky part as this 90 degree flat area is where that will rest against the wing when attached, so it needs to be pretty close to your cutouts in size.

Using thick CA glue I apply the sprue into the cutouts and let them dry overnight. The next day I double check they are good and secure and begin sanding them to fit the wing profile. I start with by applying tape over the wing to prodtect them during the sanding process. Using medium sanding sticks and getting the correct shape I then go to find to perfect the lens shape and then I move onto the 3 stages of polishing the wing and lens. I have the tape removed at this stage.

Once I have completed the work the new Nav lights look real and lit up. The only thing left to do is mask them up for painting. Make sure that the size of the mask matches the other wing. This is your chance to make them the EXACT same size. Any paint that shows on the wing under the edge of the light will be painted over and disappear. Any size variation in the cutouts you made will also be eliminated by your masking efforts here, so be precise. 

Once you have this done it will make you kit look just that much more stunning.

BK

On the bench:

A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!

2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed   

                         14 / 5 / 2  

                              Tongue Tied

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, October 2, 2015 2:20 PM
Think I need to do a bit of catching up as well, have neglected this thread for a few days, sorry about that guys.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, October 2, 2015 2:25 PM

greentracker98

Update: My drywall is toast. I put it aside for a few days and when I went back to it, it was really dry. The cobblestones were falling completely apart. It would have been way too much damage to it. I guess the trick to it is to keep it damp.

So, I will be getting a new piece of drywall and I will go from there.

Bish, I wish I had seen your "resin is brittle" post before. I tried to cut the blanket away from the wounded guy on the Mash chopper. The cutters broke through the blanket and took his arm with it. I have yet to find it. Anyway, I found another arm for him. I amputated the medics arm and put it on the wounded guy. It's not as good, but It will work.

 

Sorry to hear that about the drywall, but at least thats one lesson chalked up that i guess is pretty easy to deal with and no harm done to the model. Be interested to see how your second attempt goes. But how are you dealing with the dust, thats not exactly somthing you want to breath in.

That is a problem with resin and often theres not much you can do to prevent it. At least you have a standby, how about putting a bandage on the arm.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, October 2, 2015 2:27 PM

DantheMan85

Thanks Bish.

BrandonK: Great detail work on the cockpit.

 

Decided to hand brush on Tamiya XF61 Dark Green around the XF64 Red Brown.  I thinned the dark green down to airbrush consistency.  I'll be applying it in many coats, to build it up slowly.  Not sure if the exhaust is painted with the camouflage or something else.  Also have the Easy Eight ready for primer now.

 

Ilike what your doing with the camo. If the ehaust had been painted, it would burn away. I usually paint mine black and then go over with oils and tamiya pastels.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, October 2, 2015 2:30 PM
BK, really nice work there and a great little tut on those lights. Though I must say that might be a really PITA in 72nd scale, but might be worth a try. I do like kits that come with clear parts for the lights.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: Oil City, PA
Posted by greentracker98 on Saturday, October 3, 2015 2:34 PM

Bish
 
greentracker98

Update: My drywall is toast. I put it aside for a few days and when I went back to it, it was really dry. The cobblestones were falling completely apart. It would have been way too much damage to it. I guess the trick to it is to keep it damp.

So, I will be getting a new piece of drywall and I will go from there.

Bish, I wish I had seen your "resin is brittle" post before. I tried to cut the blanket away from the wounded guy on the Mash chopper. The cutters broke through the blanket and took his arm with it. I have yet to find it. Anyway, I found another arm for him. I amputated the medics arm and put it on the wounded guy. It's not as good, but It will work.

 

 

 

Sorry to hear that about the drywall, but at least thats one lesson chalked up that i guess is pretty easy to deal with and no harm done to the model. Be interested to see how your second attempt goes. But how are you dealing with the dust, thats not exactly somthing you want to breath in.

That is a problem with resin and often theres not much you can do to prevent it. At least you have a standby, how about putting a bandage on the arm.

 

Thanks Bish I haven't noticed the drywall dust in the air hardly any. The resin dust is a different story. I have a black and decker (dremel style) rotary tool. It works every bit as good as a dremel, and its much much cheaper. The resin dust is a problem, but I have a mask I wear for different things like this.

The Medics arm has the uniform on. but I sanded the arm down considerably, I'm not very good and changing figures like this, but think it will be hidden quite a bit if I place that arm toward the helicopter. I already have a missing hand on the other wounded man. Thats why I didn't want to leave him with out an arm

A.K.A. Ken                Making Modeling Great Again

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: Oil City, PA
Posted by greentracker98 on Sunday, October 4, 2015 12:30 AM

If any one is watching to see how my drywall cobblestone base is working out. don't bother and don't waste your money on it either. All it wants to do is fall apart.

A.K.A. Ken                Making Modeling Great Again

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, October 4, 2015 1:20 AM
Thanks for the info Ken. Someone has to try it first, and until they do we can't know if it will work or not. So whats plan B.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Sunday, October 4, 2015 8:45 AM

Brandon, Thank You very much for the nav light tutorial. You've done a sweet job on them as well as presenting the tut. I've seen this technique demonstrated before. Also seen it using colored toothbrush handles (not to privy to that as you end up with a solid colored light.). I've yet to try this myself and, like Bish, it would certainly be a challenge in 1/72.

I do have a suggestion if I may. Rather than drilling a small hole in the opening, take a small round file and sand a small indentation in the middle of the corner of the 90 degree angle of the light itself. Then paint the indentation with the appropriate light color. This gives the appearance of the actual bulb inside the light. I've used this on kits where the clear nav light is provided and it looks the part.

Thanks again Brandon and the Hellcat is looking fabulous.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Sunday, October 4, 2015 8:48 AM

Ken, Bummed to hear the drywall did not work out. You sure gave it a noble effort though and kudos to that. I'm also curious as to what you have up your sleeve next.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Sunday, October 4, 2015 10:45 AM

Brandon, thank you for illustrating to us your navigation light technique, and I've got it bookmarked into my memory.  I think Joe's latetest post on the variation might appear more accurate, but wonder if it would still present a similar effect?

Ken, shame about the drywall (this is what it is known as in Canada), as that cobblestone base looked fantastic.  I wonder if you had sprayed a heavy coat(s) of acrylic clear, would it have given it sufficient strength to hold it's form?

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Sunday, October 4, 2015 10:37 PM

 

Tamiya 1/48 A6M2 Zero

 

Paints: Gunze Silver, Vallejo Model Color, Iwata Com.Art

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We're going to call this done. The real world did not cooperate during this build, and I also found the modeling challenge I set myself to be a lot harder than I anticipated. This is the 1945 GB, so what Japanese subject would fit better than a Kamikaze? At the planning stage I checked out a lot of photos and found a number like the two WWII era pics above – very heavily chipped Zeros with a lot of A6M2s in the mix. (The pic with the Zeros loaded with the very distinctive bombs was a group of A6M2s attacking Leyte in 1944.) I also got a copy of a really neat movie called “Eternal Zero.” This flick was a mega hit in Japan and I broke down a bought a DVD from a Japanese movie site. (Only $18 and in “International” format which played on my player very nicely – sellers on eBay are asking $50.) The movie was a bit sentimental – not unusual for the Japanese – but it brims with excellent history, splendid ground sets with replica aircraft and jaw-dropping CGI. I know a bit about the Pacific War, and some of my friends know even more and the Kaigun fans were impressed with the technical accuracy. The longer the war goes on, the more heavily weathered appear the planes. A quirk of the plot has the hero intentionally using an A6M2 for his final flight and it's a mess. But I froze a number of shots that gave me a really good guide on how to duplicate the mega-chipping used in the movie. And, as you can see, also in real life.

 

 

 

A short word on the kit. This is an oldie, and lacks the detail Tamiya's new “Zeke” releases. But the kit is perfectly adequate for detail, has more recessed lines than many of their early fighters, and went together very nicely. That's a $10 model – what's not to like – particularly if you're planning on tearing it apart.

 

 

 

Once I got the hang of it, the chipping was pretty direct. After priming, I painted the plane Gunze Shine Silver – Gunze makes fine metallics and this one went down nicely. I put on some future to toughen the surface and let it dry for a day. Then I put on AK “Worn Effects” which emulates the “hairspray technique” used by armor fans. This is one specialized product that's a real improvement over available at the drug store. I gave it an adequate coat, and then painted most of the plane a combination of Vallejo MC Bronze Green and German External Dark Green – the effect was a very black green. It's not so apparent because I did some serious fading with a Tamiya Weathering Set that had a “fading green” pigment that was just perfect in hue. In future I'm going to be thinking about using pigments for fading – I liked the effect a lot. I used Iwata Com.Art for panel lines and pin washes – it's a light effect but leaves a little grime on the surface which is what I wanted. Underneath I used MC Stone Grey and weathered it with a Flory wash – it's been a long time since I used one of those but it worked nicely.

 

 

 

One of the nice things about Worn Effects is that you can wet it again two days later and it will still come off, if a bit more slowly. This was good I think. There was major chipping across the surface, especially below the cockpit on both sides. But the CGI shots showed that the overall effect was made by many micro chips along panel lines which I applied with air-brush cleaning tool and a hobby knife. Smaller the better was usually the case although blotches existed throughout. AK has a more aggressive chipping fluid (so does Vallejo) and they both make chipping easier, but it would easy to get too many big botches off. Anyway, it took a while. So did the blinking resin bomb. The IJN 250 KG bomb had a very unique look to it so I could not just throw on an American version. A company called KMC made a resin version sold by Squadron. I've used resin, but this one was no picnic. There was only one slot to help fit six different parts and it was not designed for a particular kit. That meant I had to do a lot of stuff combining CA and the eyeball. And unless my photos are wrong, the configuration of the bomb frame/bomb is a little off. They said paint it silver, so I did. The pics from the movie showed gray I think..

 

 

 

But in for a penny.... The overall effected required chips on the national markings. So they had to be masked and painted on. Fortunately the usual white stripe around the hinomarus was often painted over by hand with black on the sides and upper wings – which I did. The numbers are decals with light chipping done with silver paint. Should point out that every stage of painting with Worn Effects on had to be done separately and given a good dry to prevent masking tape from bringing up unwanted streaks.

 

 

 

It was hard not to do this subject without thinking about the “Special Attack” forces. We know a lot about them now. The first class were volunteers to a man and represented the best educated Japanese youth. After Okinawa – and I think the government knew this – morale was beginning to yield but public display was impossible so great was the psychological and physical control held by the Japanese military. There's no doubt that a large number of the late pilots (nearly 3,000 were trained and had planes on VJ Day) had been the victims of massive psychological pressure. The planes were a nasty weapon off Leyte and Okinawa. The only thing that limited their effectiveness was the inability to fuse their bombs to penetrate decks. (The soul victim of the Cherry Blossum was a US picket escort that sunk in minutes because it was hit by a flying fuzed bomb.) Most planes hit by a conventional Kamikaze would suffer damage on deck where the bomb went off and often severe loss of life. But the number of ships sunk, particularly anything larger than a DE, was low

 

 

 

Attacking US troops ships and landing ships from bases in Kyushu it would have been extremely difficult for USN combat air patrol to protect the landings. And the Japanese were going to pursue soft targets like LST and troop transports. The USN knew this all too well, and were getting cold feet on Olympic before Hiroshima made the question moot. That didn't mean the USN was getting cold feet on the war – the close blockade planned in the winter of 45-46 would have been designed to starve Japan. Both nations were close to a war of annihilation and it was the willingness of the Japanese soldier (or airman) to sacrifice his life for the honor of Japan that had convinced American soldiers and men in Washington that Japan was – can't think of another word – crazy. And if you're dealing with crazy people, normal power politics don't work well. I look at all of this has a product of a generation of all-out indoctrination on the part of the Japanese military which controlled “social studies” in the Japanese school system from the time of Meiji and were running everything by the 1930s. The result was the spread of a kind of ersatz bushido designed to wed citizen and emperor. It worked. Japanese fighting men often encouraged each other by saying “we shall meet at the Yasakuni Shrine.” This reflected an incredible physical courage. It also almost brought utter ruin to a great nation. Sobering.

 

 

 

More pics below.

 

Eric

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: Oil City, PA
Posted by greentracker98 on Sunday, October 4, 2015 11:24 PM

Bish
Thanks for the info Ken. Someone has to try it first, and until they do we can't know if it will work or not. So whats plan B.
 

Plan B? I'm mulling a couple of ideas over in my head. I seen one guy on you tube used cork. But I didn't know it cost so much.  right know I'm thinking about the "Mud" they use on drywall. It's already mixed up and all you have to do is lay it down with a putty knife. I had some here to patch a wall that we put a hole in when I was moving in. I just have to find it and hope it isn't completely dried out.

A.K.A. Ken                Making Modeling Great Again

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: Oil City, PA
Posted by greentracker98 on Monday, October 5, 2015 3:46 AM

I went to look for the "mud" it was way in the back of a closet. And it is still good. It has to be at least 10 years old, but it was still sealed tight. So, This my plan B. Hopefully this will work.

Thanks for all the encouragement.

EB your Zero looks fantastic. great work

A.K.A. Ken                Making Modeling Great Again

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, October 6, 2015 12:41 PM
Eric, great work on that battered Zero, I do like your result with the chipping. Thank you for posting it here.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Tuesday, October 6, 2015 1:54 PM

Bish
BK, really nice work there and a great little tut on those lights. Though I must say that might be a really PITA in 72nd scale, but might be worth a try. I do like kits that come with clear parts for the lights.
 

Ah come on, give it a go. You only live once. I would probably go cross eyed if I tried that on a 1/72. Lol, that too funny.

BK

On the bench:

A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!

2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed   

                         14 / 5 / 2  

                              Tongue Tied

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Tuesday, October 6, 2015 1:57 PM

JOE RIX

Brandon, Thank You very much for the nav light tutorial. You've done a sweet job on them as well as presenting the tut. I've seen this technique demonstrated before. Also seen it using colored toothbrush handles (not to privy to that as you end up with a solid colored light.). I've yet to try this myself and, like Bish, it would certainly be a challenge in 1/72.

I do have a suggestion if I may. Rather than drilling a small hole in the opening, take a small round file and sand a small indentation in the middle of the corner of the 90 degree angle of the light itself. Then paint the indentation with the appropriate light color. This gives the appearance of the actual bulb inside the light. I've used this on kits where the clear nav light is provided and it looks the part.

Thanks again Brandon and the Hellcat is looking fabulous.

 

Ya know, that's a heck of a good idea. I honestly can't say it accured to me to do that. I'll give it a go on the next one for sure. 
The clear sprue tends to grab the color and bend it around the whole of the sprue making them appear lit from certain angles, yet clear from others. I am curious now to see how this approach would affect that. Great idea mang !!

BK

On the bench:

A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!

2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed   

                         14 / 5 / 2  

                              Tongue Tied

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Tuesday, October 6, 2015 1:58 PM

EB, that zero is SICK!!! I love it. Fantastic weathering all around.

BK

On the bench:

A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!

2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed   

                         14 / 5 / 2  

                              Tongue Tied

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, October 6, 2015 4:22 PM

BrandonK
 
Bish
BK, really nice work there and a great little tut on those lights. Though I must say that might be a really PITA in 72nd scale, but might be worth a try. I do like kits that come with clear parts for the lights.
 

 

 

Ah come on, give it a go. You only live once. I would probably go cross eyed if I tried that on a 1/72. Lol, that too funny.

BK

 

BrandonK
 
Bish
BK, really nice work there and a great little tut on those lights. Though I must say that might be a really PITA in 72nd scale, but might be worth a try. I do like kits that come with clear parts for the lights.
 

 

 

Ah come on, give it a go. You only live once. I would probably go cross eyed if I tried that on a 1/72. Lol, that too funny.

BK

 

LOL, o don't worry, i will do next time it comes up. Fortunatly my current buld has clear pieces for the lights.

 

But if i go blind, just know it will be your fault Wink

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Tuesday, October 6, 2015 6:29 PM

Was told by a guru on Aeroscale that Kamikazes had no aerial or antenna. I knew they had the radios and guns removed to help the little engine drag around a 250kg bomb, but couldn't find a photo to verify it. Anyway, that's the way it should be. Bish, if you don't mind use the pic below for the final submission.

Thankee

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, October 7, 2015 8:44 PM

EB, that is one worn looking bird. Nice work! Now that I have my desktop working again, I will try to get the latest builds added here when I can.

Bish, I think that I am gonna have to bow out of co hosting the 1946 GB unless things around here regarding the new format get fixed. I can't keep on top of updates due the current site format and that is not fair to the participants. I am gonna wind up my current GBs, then lay low here. I'll still be around, just not running anything.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.