Scott, You are doing some superb work there with the PE. I'm definitely harboring some trepidation towards my first try at PE railing. Whole new experience for me. I hope I can nail it as well as you have done.

I look forward to building in 1/350. I have 3 kits in that scale and I believe that's all I'll have space for. Until then, It's 1/700 til I have my ship building skills up and I'm physically unable to work in the smaller scale.

JOE RIX

Scott, You are doing some superb work there with the PE. I'm definitely harboring some trepidation towards my first try at PE railing. Whole new experience for me. I hope I can nail it as well as you have done.

I look forward to building in 1/350. I have 3 kits in that scale and I believe that's all I'll have space for. Until then, It's 1/700 til I have my ship building skills up and I'm physically unable to work in the smaller scale.

 

Joe,

Since you are working in 1/700, when you build in 1/350, your skills for detailing and painting will be fine tuned and you will find the larger scale will be much easier, at least until you find you want to add super fine details to existing features, which is not uncommon for us flea scale builders to do.  

Joe, an important consideration with PE rail is to not do a wholeside of the ship or deck at once. If you look at photos, it's obvious that the runs are broken up by openings for boarding ladders, anchor bitts, gun tubs etc. It's so much easier to work in shorter sections.

AFA scale, small scales save time and money. A ship that's 1/350 is not TWICE as large as a 1/700 one; it's EIGHT times as large. Law of cubes- twice as long times twice as wide times twice as tall.

Speaking of PE, here's is a quick shot of where I am with the Perry. Just the hull railing and the helo and it's done, well and finish the flight deck. Then on to attaching the masts and the painting. I'm going to do the same process as I did with the Spruance, which BTW is waiting for the Perry to get done so I can complete the water at the same time.

Steve: That looks great! I've got some PE to use on my 1/35th Comet tank for Bish's GB and I'm been applying it slowing but it's still driving me crazy. I guess I should start on my LCT but I'm just a bit nervious with dealing with so much more PE stuff.  

modelcrazy

Speaking of PE, here's is a quick shot of where I am with the Perry. Just the hull railing and the helo and it's done, well and finish the flight deck. Then on to attaching the masts and the painting. I'm going to do the same process as I did with the Spruance, which BTW is waiting for the Perry to get done so I can complete the water at the same time.

 

Steve how do you paint in behind stuff, like the pe wall under the bridge? Sure looks tight between hull and bridge. I keep admiring your work and trying to get up the nerve To try assembling it all and then painting 

Really, all I can figure is that he holds it by her masthead and dips it in a pot of paint. Certainly isn't the easy way to do it. Sure looks good though.

GMorrison

Really, all I can figure is that he holds it by her masthead and dips it in a pot of paint. Certainly isn't the easy way to do it. Sure looks good though.

 

LOL, no, no need for dipping, thanks GM .

I wouldn't recomend this method unless you're comfortable with your airbrush and you can spray fine lines. One of my brushes has a 1.8mm needle. Since I black base, if I can't get much of the base color behind something, it adds to the effect by looking like a shadow. The demarkation line between the deck and superstructure is sprayed leaving just a hint of the black base behind, again, adding to the effect. Once done I'll go over the color, lightend up, to add to the weathering effect. If I mess up with over spray, I'll go over that with the original collor, say deck or superstructure, again adding to the color variation effect.

I do this method, to a degree, on ships with camo such as the North Carolina, but doing sub-assemblies at a time, such as the hull, superstructures, guns, etc. then attach them.

When I paint the Perry I'll take more pictures of the process.

Hmm, I like the idea of dipping the model... 

modelcrazy

 

 

GMorrison

Really, all I can figure is that he holds it by her masthead and dips it in a pot of paint. Certainly isn't the easy way to do it. Sure looks good though.

 

 

 

 

LOL, no, no need for dipping, thanks GM .

I wouldn't recomend this method unless you're comfortable with your airbrush and you can spray fine lines. One of my brushes has a 1.8mm needle. Since I black base, if I can't get much of the base color behind something, it adds to the effect by looking like a shadow. The demarkation line between the deck and superstructure is sprayed leaving just a hint of the black base behind, again, adding to the effect. Once done I'll go over the color, lightend up, to add to the weathering effect. If I mess up with over spray, I'll go over that with the original collor, say deck or superstructure, again adding to the color variation effect.

I do this method, to a degree, on ships with camo such as the North Carolina, but doing sub-assemblies at a time, such as the hull, superstructures, guns, etc. then attach them.

When I paint the Perry I'll take more pictures of the process.

 

 

Another reason why I like priming in black.  I am learning to feather up to the demarkation line with either an airbrush or a brush and it seems less stressful.  Even in 1/700, with a fine tip and low pressure, I find it easy to get good, even coverage on the PE using the airbrush than a paintbrush.  But it does require a steady hand, which I lack since I seem to find the urge to model after a few cups of strong coffee.  

Your Perry is looking great.

I'm done with the PE, now on to the paint.

Beautiful work Admiral.

Woo Hoo Steve, nice work seeing all that shiney brass before being painted. 

Steve: As always, you have done some really remarkable PE work. Certainly an inspiration for my future attempts.

GM: The suggestion for railing application is greatly appreciated. Had that one in my mental file. I believe I'm more cautious about the bending part to get the sections right. But, most of the time that's simply a mental thing. I should be just fine once I get to that part and get going. Thanks again.

Steve: Yeah, that looks fantastic!

Thanks guys, I applied the black base. Next I'll add the anit fouling red and boot top.

modelcrazy

Thanks guys, I applied the black base. Next I'll add the anit fouling red and boot top.

 

"Back in Black" What brand of red are you using?  I've been having some trouble with hull reds as of late.

Spent a few hours at the bench between painting my master bedroom and watching the Chiefs win their way to the SuperBowl to attach the boats and a few other items.  I really like how this kits resin responds to the TiteBond Gel CA I'm using.  As small as this kit is, its really an enjoyment to build.

Steve: She's coming along great! 

Scott: Wow, I didn't get a tenth done last weekend...  She looks fantastic, I love that scheme! 

Not sure if this is anything new, maybe you guys have already seen stuff like this but I thought it was kinda cool and thought I'd pass it on. Anyway it sure beats scratchbuilding drydock facilities. 

 https://www.hlj.com/1-700-scale-charlestown-navy-yard-dry-dock-swmsp07050

Scott, the KS is looking awesome. About the hull red...yeah, about that. There are several co's that manufacture it but I believe I'll bow to the likes of GM, GH and others. My hulls are almost always in a sea scape and always heavily weathered. With that said, I typically use Tamiya Hull Red acrylic.

Gam, thanks, I didn't know they produced a dry dock might come in handy, maybe soon.

After black basing, I started spraying the hull and superstructure grey. I'll go over it again with a second, thinner coat next.

That looks really good. Love how things are working out. 

Thanks Steve,

A second coat will be perfect for your finish.  Its looking great with so much depth in the coloring. 

The Tamiya Hull Red is what has given me the most issues as of late with fish eyes.  Probably because I painted over a laquer primer and MM flat black, which I have been doing for a long time without any problems.  

Gamera

Not sure if this is anything new, maybe you guys have already seen stuff like this but I thought it was kinda cool and thought I'd pass it on. Anyway it sure beats scratchbuilding drydock facilities. 

 https://www.hlj.com/1-700-scale-charlestown-navy-yard-dry-dock-swmsp07050

 

I have been eye balling this when it came out.  It sure would save a lot of time scratchbuilding and makes for an insteresting display.  

Another coat of the grey

and with a little white added to the base color for tonal variation.

The deck is next.

scottrc I love that little thing. For whatever reason I'm just now getting a feel for the size after looking at your mat. super job.

Gamera that is a cool find. I think I will try one out this Spring.

Modelcrazy this is a long awaited tutorial. Totally enjoying the show. Will try and bring it off Broadway this year to a local workbench near me ;-)

Scottc: Your Kansas is looking absolutely marvelous. That is a very handsome ship indeed.

Steve: Superb paint work. Leave it to you to think outside the box regarding ship painting. And, more importantly, to have the skills to pull it off. I suppose that is why you are the Admiral.

Gamera: Now that's a sweet set. 

Thanks mongoose and Joe, I appreciate the complements.

I should be able to get the first and maybe the second coat on the deck tonight. This is where the small AB comes in handy.

Steve: That looks superb! Looks like the same fading and wear you see from the sun and salt air!