That box art is from the older kit. They just kept using the old box art even when they brought the kit back. For those with the more recent kits, note that the box art has the model with the carriage mounted cannons on deck, but in the updated instruction booklet, they use a more recent photo in which she is without cannons.
Over the years, research has been done on the Sultana and her history has been polished up a bit so that we now know much more about her than in the old days. Sultana did not have any carriage guns. Swivels, yes, but no cannons on carriages.
Russ is correct, there were no cannons on the Sultana. There were only the 8 swivel guns mounted on the stocks. I want to mention someting else. I recall that some of you are building the older variations of this kit. The plans for them have changed a lot since then. The rigging plan is completely different. The masts and spars are much more simplified now. This is based on new information. For example. The trestle trees and mast heads have a completely different configuration now as well as the main stay and main topmast stays. If anyone has questions about these differences please let me know. It will probably be some time before that need arrives though. The hull and fittings details remain unchanged.
OcCre's Santisima Trindad
Linbergs "Jolly Roger" aka La Flore
Mantua's Cannone Da Costa Americano
linberg's "Cptn Kidd" aka Wappen Von Hamburg Model Shipways 1767 Sultana
Midwest Boothbay Lobsterboat (R/C)
Wow, everyone's progress is looking good! If you need a good simple photo editing program, I can highly recommend this freeware:
Well, I finally found the ship to build using the Sultana as a base, it is under the "Copperhead" title in the "ships" thread.
Please post some more pics, everyone, us novices need the information!
The great thing about wood is that there is usually a way to work around just about any problem with some pieces, glue and filler. Thanks to you and Donnie to be getting ahead of the rest of us and finding out the difficult parts.
Rather than just being a problem with the angle of the stern post, from the photo it looks as if the angle of the transom may be more vertical than it could be. It is hard to tell from the angle of the photo but if that is the case, one fix may be to add a piece on to the transom and shape the correct angle. That would give more deck length to put the rudder post through. If the angle is in fact correct and the deck the right length then this may not help much.
You are moving along at a good pace. I hope you dont mind me making a suggestion. It looks as though the stern post could be thinned down somewhat giving you more room on the counter to create the hole for the rudder. In combination with adding an 1/8" thick back to your stern as shown below. I hope you dont take offense to my doctoring of your photo. I am only trying to help and I think for your first wooden build you are doing a great job.
Here are a couple of pictures I just took a few minutes ago. I am about to start rugging the ratlines next. I am working hard to finish up the next chapter before I go away on vacation. I want to get the ratlines finished and the anchors in place. With a little luck I will also get the stays rigged as well.
I want to tell all of you that I am enjoying your company while we work together on this project. It is a lot better than going it alone.
Very neat - Very clean lines ! This is an awesome build Chuck and thanks again for your timely help.
Yes the masts are glued into position. I attach any blocks or eyebolts while they are off the model and do all of my rigging after the masts are stepped. Everyone has their own comfort zone for rigging. I use super glue (CA) for most of my models while alternating with carpenter's glue. It depend on the feature I am working on. I used CA to fasten the transom to hull. You are correct in saying there isnt much to glue to, but I held it in position and it went pretty smooth. If you are going to create the transom in two layers as I did, the first layer can be pinned to the hull while it dries. The second layer will cover up those holes and have a large surface to glue to.
Whats going to be our next project? Just kidding.