Forums

Want to post a reply to this topic?
Login or register for an acount to join our online community today!

Model Shipways "Sultana" Group Build 2006

  • Dan:

    That box art is from the older kit. They just kept using the old box art even when they brought the kit back. For those with the more recent kits, note that the box art has the model with the carriage mounted cannons on deck, but in the updated instruction booklet, they use a more recent photo in which she is without cannons.

    Over the years, research has been done on the Sultana and her history has been polished up a bit so that we now know much more about her than in the old days. Sultana did not have any carriage guns. Swivels, yes, but no cannons on carriages.

    Russ

     

  • Russ is correct,  there were no cannons on the Sultana.  There were only the 8 swivel guns mounted on the stocks.  I want to mention someting else.  I recall that some of you are building the older variations of this kit.  The plans for them have changed a lot since then.  The rigging plan is completely different.  The masts and spars are much more simplified now.  This is based on new information.  For example.  The trestle trees and mast heads have a completely different configuration now as well as the main stay and main topmast stays.  If anyone has questions about these differences please let me know.  It will probably be some time before that need arrives though.  The hull and fittings details remain unchanged.

    Chuck

     

  • Sounds good, Dan. I'm really looking forward to seeing your photos since I was considering the Tallow lower hull too, which I believe is more historically accurate, although I like the purity of white, especially as I am going to paint my upper hull yellow. Did you plank your upper hull like others are doing, or just paint it tan?







  • I plan to do my decking and then lay my inside bulwarks. Again, I stripped my own decking. from a sheet of basswood 1/32" thick. Width is about 5/64 " for each deck strip.

    Not at all finished with the upper planking, but got my own reasons / desires to start some on the deck.

    Donnie

    In Progress: OcCre's Santisima Trindad Finished Builds: Linbergs "Jolly Roger" aka La Flore Mantua's Cannone Da Costa Americano linberg's "Cptn Kidd" aka Wappen Von Hamburg Model Shipways 1767 Sultana Midwest Boothbay Lobsterboat (R/C)

  • Looks great Donnie! That's coming along really nicely.
    I've been installing my stem, keel, sternpost, here's a (fuzzy) pic of the stem.


    I've also been working on the jolly boat which is a real PITA... I keep breaking it it's so small.

    I ran into a snafu with my rudder. The photo below explains it all. Umm..... no deck for the rudder to go through!!
    I figure the solution is 2-fold and your advice is greatly appreciated...
    1. I think the angle of my sternpost & hence rudder is too acute and needs to be closer to vertical. This will bring the upper rudder post further forward. This means building a shim for the sternpost to bring it closer to vertical and reshaping the hull accordingly.
    2. I think I need to build an extender to the stern.. pad it out with wood and reshape the whole thing again. This would add another half inch to the deck.

    Ah well... we learn from mistakes and this is a big one. :)

    Sorry about the fuzzy and really large photos. My desktop went belly up and I have no software on this laptop to shrink the images.

  • Fippy,
    of course yours is shaping up very nicely. You are way ahead of me. Let me say that I probably needed to start on stern, rudder section before I started teh deck on mine.
    I would not do any thing drastic by adding or taking away hull right now. I think that I would study the plans again and hopfully there is an answer to your situation in the plans.
    Your angle on the stern looks right - looks like mine too. Do you still have your template of the profile of the hull. I think that I would reach for that again. I am sure that you
    have your hull ok. It might be that the Rudder is required to be shorter than you have it. You have done alot of work on your hull and I say cut your rudder to fit - leave the hull alone.
    This is only my humble 2 cents worth Fippy.

    Donnie

    In Progress: OcCre's Santisima Trindad Finished Builds: Linbergs "Jolly Roger" aka La Flore Mantua's Cannone Da Costa Americano linberg's "Cptn Kidd" aka Wappen Von Hamburg Model Shipways 1767 Sultana Midwest Boothbay Lobsterboat (R/C)

  • Wow, everyone's progress is looking good!  If you need a good simple photo editing program,  I can highly recommend this freeware:

    http://www.irfanview.com/index.htm

    http://www.ewaldbros.com
  • Well, I finally found the ship to build using the Sultana as a base, it is under the "Copperhead" title in the "ships" thread.

        Please post some more pics, everyone, us novices need the information!

                  greg

    http://www.ewaldbros.com
  • Fippy,

    The great thing about wood is that there is usually a way to work around just about any problem with some pieces, glue and filler.  Thanks to you and Donnie to be getting ahead of the rest of us and finding out the difficult parts.

    Rather than just being a problem with the angle of the stern post, from the photo it looks as if the angle of the transom may be more vertical than it could be.  It is hard to tell from the angle of the photo but if that is the case, one fix may be to add a piece on to the transom and shape the correct angle.  That would give more deck length to put the rudder post through.  If the angle is in fact correct and the deck the right length then this may not help much.

    Bruce

  • Fippy,

    You are moving along at a good pace.  I hope you dont mind me making a suggestion.  It looks as though the stern post could be thinned down somewhat giving you more room on the counter to create the hole for the rudder.  In combination with adding an 1/8" thick back to your stern as shown below.  I hope you dont take offense to my doctoring of your photo.  I am only trying to help and I think for your first wooden build you are doing a great job. 

    Chuck Passaro

  • Thanks everyone and particularly Chuck for taking the time to doctor my photo to explain his point. Chuck, absolutely I do not mind at all. I am thrilled that everyone in this group is so helpful, and particularly patient with newbies like me. :) Constructive criticism is always welcome, after all how am I going to learn if I don't listen very carefully to you experts. I only hope that when I have a few ships under my belt I can pass on such knowledge to other newbies. I'm loving this hobby so far.

    I actually just finished tacking on a chunk of wood to my stern but to be honest it is too thick and I don't like it. I think I'm going to chisel it off again and follow your suggestion. Thanks! BCS, you are also correct - my transom is too vertical. I shall rectify that too.

    Thanks everyone, especially for the encouragement.
  • Here are a couple of pictures I just took a few minutes ago.  I am about to start rugging the ratlines next.  I am working hard to finish up the next chapter before I go away on vacation.  I want to get the ratlines finished and the anchors in place.  With a little luck I will also get the stays rigged as well.

    I want to tell all of you that I am enjoying your company while we work together on this project.  It is a lot better than going it alone.

    Chuck

     

  • Very neat - Very clean lines !  This is an awesome build Chuck and thanks again for your timely help.

    Donnie

    In Progress: OcCre's Santisima Trindad Finished Builds: Linbergs "Jolly Roger" aka La Flore Mantua's Cannone Da Costa Americano linberg's "Cptn Kidd" aka Wappen Von Hamburg Model Shipways 1767 Sultana Midwest Boothbay Lobsterboat (R/C)

  • Chuck, that looks absolutely gorgeous. Are your masts glued in yet? I read somewhere that all the rigging should be done with the masts off the vessel and then the masts stepped and the hanging lines secured to the hull. that sounds like an accident waiting to happen.

    I have a question about glues while I am here. Up to now I have been using white carpenters glue as my glue of choice when I can clamp, or pin parts (like the sternpost), and then super glue for fiddly little pieces - basically parts of the jolly boat so far. I also have some 5-minute epoxy. How does everyone in the group choose their glue? For example... how do you glue the transom on? It doesn't look like there is any way to clamp it, and the contact areas are small, so I was going to use superglue. Or should I use the 5-min epoxy? I don't want to pin it because the transom is stained and so I can't disguise the holes by filling and painting.

    Thanks,
  • Yes the masts are glued into position.  I attach any blocks or eyebolts while they are off the model and do all of my rigging after the masts are stepped.  Everyone has their own comfort zone for rigging.  I use super glue (CA) for most of my models while alternating with carpenter's glue.  It depend on the feature I am working on.  I used CA to fasten the transom to hull.  You are correct in saying there isnt much to glue to, but I held it in position and it went pretty smooth.  If you are going to create the transom in two layers as I did, the first layer can be pinned to the hull while it dries.  The second layer will cover up those holes and have a large surface to glue to.

     

    Thanks Fippy

    Whats going to be our next project?  Just kidding.

     

    Chuck