Thanks for the kind words Fellas, that wiring job about drove me nutz!

PJ the kit is nice but would sure benefit from some resin upgrades especially the engine.

Gamera thats looking sharp,yes the office that dark does turn it into a black hole but what ya gonna do its accurate.

Got the wings mounted up and after some tweaking got it close to being the right dihedral and evenly matched . Threw the engine in temorary just to see how it would fit ,no issues so far .

Trey

Just looked at the super sized picture of your engine and it looks fantastic. IMO looks better than the resin upgrade. Great job on the plumbing that I bet is solder wire.

PJ: Lol, well desperation is the mother of invention! I would have used plastic sheet but I didn't have anything thin enough to get a good tube!

Trey: Yeah, that engine is beautiful, good thing it's right there on top where it's easy to see!!!

TREYZX10R,

That Salamander is looking great, I've always liked that plane, killed a lot of young pilots though.

The engine is fantastic. I've never tried to tackle an engine and need to give it a try someday. May hurt to tackle and engine.

Here's my update.

The Me 262 JV44 is coming along, and ready for paint. This is a very easy and sweet kit and everything just falls together. Way to go Hasagawa.

Lookin' good there Steve!

The F-86 is together, sprayed her with several coats of white primer Sunday and am waiting to make sure it's good and dry. There are a couple places I need to fix of course. 

Modelcrazy thanks,the 262 is looking clean glad to hear the fit is good!

Sabre is looking great Gamera!

Small update ,used some water based glue to place the gear doors and nose cone back on temporarily for painting. Should start painting soon.

Thanks Trey, and very nice work there on the Salamander!

Looking nice there guys, some good work all round.

TREYZX10R

Is that a Futaba "J" Y connector I see in you photo? Are you moonlighting with Radio Control?

Thanks Gamera ,Bish

Good eyes Modelcrazy ,yea guilty as charged and its been a conflict for sure! Building a Hangar 9 20cc Mustang and a 20cc Top Flight P40E at the moment. Do you also indulge in RC?

TREY,

 Why yes, yes I do.

I fly electric though. The flying field that runs glow and gas is 30 miles away. The electric field is 2 miles away . It took awhile but I managed to convert to electric, just prior to getting back into plastic.

I'm tried the pre-shading of the panel lines on my 262, but they didn't show through like I'd hoped. I still need to spray the dark green patches, then touch up, gloss, and apply the decals.

I didn't apply primer before pre-shading, did I miss a step? The paint job looks just fine, but I guess I'll resort to the tried and true wash method I'm use to.

Steve

Here's my 262. I just need to paint the gear, spray the gloss coat, apply the decals and wash. final touch-up, set it on a base, then I can call this baby done.

Looks really nice Steve, good work on the mottling.

Steve: Yes, very nice mottling there!

68GT: Already molded in blue, no need to paint her!

Trey and Modelcrazy

I also fly RC mostly 1/4 scale. I recently picked up a couple of electrics from Towers but have been unable to fly since we moved to this area due to loooong waiting lists and insane club fees.

68gt

I have that same Banshee in my stash which I picked up at a local model show for $2. It's very nice even being an old mold.

Wow PJ!

1/4 scale is huge! I dabble in 40 - 60 size, some smaller, something I can fit in my car and fly in an open field. I'll bet 1/4 scale flies better though.

My 262 is complete, I need to take some pics of it and call it done. I am not at all happy with the finish, but I'm sure that was my fault. I wanted to try the Future method, but couldn't find any (since then I found out it is now Pledge). I sprayed gloss Lacquer prior to applying the decals (over enamel). To cut the gloss afterward I found, and tried a can of Mod Podge Matt acrylic spray, thinking this should be all right since it is Acrylic. Well the end result isn't near a nice as I would like. Maybe it's the Acrylic over Lacquer over Enamel process. I should have tried this out on a scrap piece of plastic but like everything else that goes wrong in my life I thought "what could happen?"

I'm still not giving up on the Mod Podge, but next time I'll try (on a scrap piece) the matt spray over Pledge.

Pictures to come tonight.

Steve, I use to believe big time in preshading. It works well for a single light color like under the plane but for any camo ontop you tend to loose the detail.

I have lately gone to post shading rather.

I use a fine soft pait-brush and use dark grey chalk-pastel that I shave off with a blade into a littl container.

hen I carefully "drybrush" over the panel lines.

I find I have way more control with this way.

Just be careful handling the model while doing this, you need to wipe off all finger marks before hand otherwise you get a nice fingerprint that can be lifted by the cops ;-)

You can do this only over a matt or semi matt finish for the powder to adhere to .After all I seal it in with my final clear coat.

This works well for exhaust and gun stains aswell.

And yes I too am an "RC'er"

Started with plastics as a small lad, did RC in High school, Went to the Air Force for national service, then started building and maitaining full size planes to pay the bills.

Now I havwe come full circle and am back with plastics LOL!

Theuns

That's odd Steve, I've never had acrylic bother enamel or lacquer when applied over it - I wouldn't think the acrylic would be 'hot' enough to melt them. I've had it go bad going the other way though.

Looking forward to seeing those photos!

Interesting Theuns, I've heard of people doing it that way but never tried it myself- it does seem like it would be simpler over complex camo schemes.

Modelcrazy

My Nosen Citabria is an 8 footer, so is my J-3 Cub. Yes they handle better than the smaller ones but require longer runways and larger fields. I also have several .40-.60 size planes.

Theuns

I also find pre shading on multi dark colored schemes a bit of a challenge to get the right effect. I have tried the powder method of pre shading but notice that most if not all of the effect is blown off by the AB , even using over flat finish.

Here's my Me 262, I'm calling it done. Like I said earlier, I don't like the way the finish came out, however, I do like the mottling and air brushing. This is the first time I attempted such small work on 1/72 scale. I lost my good light tonight so I took the pictures at my work area in the garage.

Steve

Steve

It looks pretty good from here. I would just shoot some more clear flat as it seems glossy in the pictures otherwise it looks great.

As PJ said she looks a little shiny in spots but otherwise she looks fine to me. I can't see any issues in the photos.

Thanks PJ and Gamera,

That's one of the reasons I don't typically spray gloss prior to applying decals. It seems to be very hard to cut the gloss down and just ends up loading the subject up with too much paint, much like a woman with too much make-up, it just doesn't look right. Once it's done it can't be undone. Part of what the pictures don't show is some wrinkling of the paint. There was some reaction to the Acrylic matte overcoat, and I'm a little apprehensive to try another coat, but I don't have anything to loose at this point. I'll spray another coat of matte and take some new pics.

I'll try the Future method on a future build and see how that looks.

I have plenty of time to try another build for this GB.

adj, where can I find the patch?

Spray Testors Clear Flat Lacquer over it and it will kill the shine. It doesn't take much to have a dead flat finish with the product.

Crazy, that looks great! Congrats on being the first one done. I will ipdate the front page as soon as I get on an actual computer. And guys, there IS a badge now! I will get that posted up asap as well!

I would like to enter me revell 1/48 me 262 A-1a flown by Major Walter Nowonty, Commander of Kommando Nowotny.

Welcome aboard Matt!