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75th Anniversary of 1943 (World at War)

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  • Member since
    September, 2016
  • From: Albany, New York
Posted by ManCityFan on Friday, May 11, 2018 7:55 AM

Bish

Looking forward to seeing how you do this Steve, i hope you will post a link to the vid once its done.

 

DittoYes, please!

Dwayne or Dman or just D.  All comments are welcome on my builds. 

 

  • Member since
    July, 2014
  • From: Meridian, ID
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, May 11, 2018 6:40 PM

LOL, well it's my first so it won't be pollished at all. I hope it dosn't dissapoint. Smile

Steve

ON THE BENCH

Too many projects to list. 

  • Member since
    July, 2014
  • From: Meridian, ID
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, May 11, 2018 7:02 PM

BTW, I will be doing four in total. This one is still water, then I'll do medium seas, heavy seas and ice, maybe not in that order. I'm looking forward to it.

Steve

ON THE BENCH

Too many projects to list. 

  • Member since
    July, 2014
  • From: Meridian, ID
Posted by modelcrazy on Saturday, May 12, 2018 5:55 PM

After a second coat of gel, I used a stiff brush to stipple some gel into ripples.

Steve

ON THE BENCH

Too many projects to list. 

  • Member since
    April, 2015
Posted by Mopar Madness on Saturday, May 12, 2018 7:52 PM

That’ll be a nice base for the Scharnie!

Chad

God, Family, Models...

At the plate: 1/72 Airfix A-4 Skyhawk

On deck: 1/700 Trumpeter Graf Zeppelin

In the hole: 1/72 ICM FW 189A-1  

  • Member since
    April, 2005
  • From: Australia
Posted by taxtp on Monday, May 14, 2018 7:04 PM

You've got my full attention Steve. I've just bought an etch set and a Pitroad kit for the 1/700 USS San Diego. My interest has largely been piqued by your builds.

Cheers

Tony

I'm just taking it one GB at a time.

  • Member since
    July, 2014
  • From: Meridian, ID
Posted by modelcrazy on Monday, May 14, 2018 10:28 PM

Thank you Tony! You humble me Embarrassed

Since this is calm water I filled in the areas along the hull with gel that would typicaly be filled with cotton. I put tape along the hull so I can remove the ship by cutting along the tape when it dries. I have glued ships in the base at this point before but it makes it difficult to paint around it, so I trying a diffrent tack this time.

Steve

ON THE BENCH

Too many projects to list. 

  • Member since
    July, 2014
  • From: Meridian, ID
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, May 15, 2018 12:33 PM

Now the tape removed and ship placed back into the base to check fit. Next I will add some small bow waves and wake before I paint.

Steve

ON THE BENCH

Too many projects to list. 

  • Member since
    July, 2014
  • From: Meridian, ID
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, May 15, 2018 5:30 PM
Adding the wave patterns, doing some studding and using the Kelvin wake pattern, everything moving through the water makes the same wave pattern.

  

Depending on other factors such as the body's speed and weight will determine the wave length of the diverging and transverse crest’s. at 5 kts the wave length would be 13’. I've always known this about this wake pattern, I just never new the exact details and put it into words before. So back to the build.

I added the wave patterns using the gel and laid it so it should look like little waves. Once the base is painted I can then go back and sand or add to mix it with the surrounding water. This should be subtle since the Sharn is moving slow but would be noticeable. 

This is always the point where I think, oh man I messed this up! But it always works out.

Steve

Steve

ON THE BENCH

Too many projects to list. 

  • Member since
    September, 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, May 15, 2018 10:28 PM

Very fascinating, Steve!

Nulla Rosa Sine Spina

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, May 16, 2018 1:58 AM

Great work Steve and really interesting to see how this is done. Thank you.

''I am a Norfolk man, and i glory in being so''

 

On the bench: Esci 1/72nd MiG 29 (Aircraft of the Commonwealth GB)

  • Member since
    December, 2003
  • From: 37deg 40.13' N 95deg 29.10'W
Posted by scottrc on Wednesday, May 16, 2018 1:59 PM

Hi Steve,

I'm glad your doing a tutorial on the your water technique.  I'm almost to the stage with my Prinz Eugene to do a base.  

I stayed out of the color conversation, there are so many "what ifs" as to when the tops of the turrets were painted.  I thought painting schemes for US naval ship between 1941 and 1943 were complicated to track down, the German navy has really been a challenge. 

With the Prinz, I got conflicting color data were I ended up with a mix of the camo pattern of 1941 and 1943.  I am building for early 1941.  

Scott

  • Member since
    July, 2014
  • From: Meridian, ID
Posted by modelcrazy on Wednesday, May 16, 2018 2:20 PM

Thanks Stick and Bish, not happy with the last so I stripped the paper off and started over. It's better to do it right than fast. No biggy, this won't take long, the process is the same. I broke one of my cardinal rules. I always cut or sand some for the wake, the only exception will be on the ice base.

It's just too difficult to add waves with the gel. So after removing the paper I sanded in the wake waves and reapplied the paper.

So back to the stippling for the ripples. I'll post when I get to the painting.

Steve

ON THE BENCH

Too many projects to list. 

  • Member since
    September, 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Wednesday, May 16, 2018 2:48 PM

Looking good, Steve.

Nulla Rosa Sine Spina

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February, 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Friday, May 18, 2018 4:09 AM

I've promised a T-34/76 ready for Kursk. I got the ICM T-34/76 - I had a DML version that I found out was actually later. And the ICM kit had a lower part count. My first 1/350 ship was an ICM Konig done several years back and I swore that I'd never buy another ICM kit. This kit is not bad (get the Revell version rebox both tool 2015 and save $5) but I've been thinking about my old promise. Never do three Tamiya kits in a row and then switch to a Euro blend (in my case Italieri and ICM) - it simply reminds you how much time is wasted. But, it will get done. I've got some plans for a vingette that will include some static grass which isn't stuff I've worked with before. I've got an electronic gizmo and everything.

I've been busy and didn't really think anyone wanted to see progress on roadwheels. Below is a pic that shows I'm working on what I said I would. You might note that the tank body is primed black - the wheels etc will be to maybe. Might try the "black/white" techniqe: also might "black base" the kit. Regardless the weatering will take some brains because the tanks shown would have been less than six months old in July 44 - but also dirty/dusty beyond normal comprension.

Be back soon: Will try to add my views on other's builds.

Eric

 kit by Eric Bergerud, on Flickr

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    September, 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Friday, May 18, 2018 10:51 AM

Thanks for the update, Eric.  Looking forward to seeing your build.

Just curious:

Why did you earlier swear off ICM kits?  I haven't built any, so I don't have any familiarity with them.

And:  why never do three Tamiya kits in a row?  

Nulla Rosa Sine Spina

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February, 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Monday, May 21, 2018 5:37 AM

Let's see: I swore off ICM kits because their 1/350 Konig was a bad kit and it was the first 1/350 ship kit I built. Oddly enough it prepared me for an ancient 1/225 scale USS Oregon which was so utterly screwed up I had to rebuild it. And then put it into gray Spanish=American War colors - one of the best kits I've made.

The T-34 should do I think. It did go together withought calamity. I'm going to see here to what degree I can use "black basing" which works nicely for yours truly with AC on tanks. This is a variation (unintentional I must add) to the "black/white" weathering technique on tanks. Below you can see the kit: it has been "painted small" on top of the black base - the sides have a darker color:

 bbasing2 by Eric Bergerud, on Flickr

 bbasing by Eric Bergerud, on Flickr

Below is the kit when the base coat is applied very lightly and very slowly. The idea is to have a surface that is not regular.

 meld2 by Eric Bergerud, on Flickr

 meld! by Eric Bergerud, on Flickr

Should note that the paint used is my "go to" Golden High Flow, the planet's best water based acrylic. It's true that you have to mix paint to get military colors, but I think that's fun.

Anyway, the base coat, no matter how deployed, just leaves you ready for weathering.

 

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    September, 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Monday, May 21, 2018 3:43 PM

That looks really good, Eric.  Quite effective.

Thanks for your insights on those ICM kits.

Nulla Rosa Sine Spina

 

 

 

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