Hey Steve, that is very interesting about the water, and thanks for noting that. I'd be afraid to try that as well. Maybe I will be brave another time.

Thanks too for confirming about the sprue connections and what I'll need to do. That all helps. 

GMorrison

Yes, warpage. It can be a bit of a problem with spirit based stain too, so go lightly.

Scratchbuilding with thin wood shhets, it's good practice to stain both sides to cancel out the shrinkage, but when wood decks have adhesive already applied, that's clearly not possible.

Just to repeat what I've suggested before elsewhere, do not plan to have the deck lay flat by use of clamps and strength of adhesive. It will buckle up over time. Try to get the deck to kay flat of it's own accord before final attachment.

 

mach71

Bakster that decking really looks great! It should really make the ship.

Your sub is coming along great! Nice work!!!

And thanks Mach.

More sanding and putty application and sanding.

I brushed on some grey Tamiya surface primer/prep. It's drying now. Hopepully another

sanding sesion then I can start the final assembly. 

Thats it for a few days, work calls.

Mach - looking good. nice job on thecompound curves and the sheet goods.

Bakster - as far as staining, practice for the look you want on the corners and areas of the deck sheeting where the planking isn't.

goldhammer

Bakster - as far as staining, practice for the look you want on the corners and areas of the deck sheeting where the planking isn't.

Bakster

 

 

goldhammer

Bakster - as far as staining, practice for the look you want on the corners and areas of the deck sheeting where the planking isn't.

 

 

Will do. Thanks...

 

 

 

GMorrison

And label and keep the pieces for future reference.

Good thinking.

I will work towards getting some stain this week, then maybe start experimenting.

That's great stuff guys!

Mach71: She looks good, hope she keeps coming along so well.

Bakster and others: Please keep with the updates. I'm going to try a wooden deck someday I hope and I really find this informative.

Gamera

Bakster and others: Please keep with the updates. I'm going to try a wooden deck someday I hope and I really find this informative.

Hey Gam, for my part I will document things as I go. The guys have imparted some really good info and I am excited to try this. Tomorrow I will hit the hardware store to see what they have for stain. GM mentiond Nantucket or Drftwood, they look like great color options for my project. I am leaning towards Driftwood. I will see what they have.

mach71 its taking shape nicely.

the latset pt pics. the decals are on the wash is done,working on algae hull line and clear flat.

Crown n7,

That boat sure is looking sharp.  I'm taking notes on your techniques. 

T e d

Crown 7, the PT boat is looking sweet!

Well, I am a bit underwhelmed:

A= Old Master Aged Oak on actual wood stock. The stain soaked into the wood immediately and beautifully.

B= Dry brushed using Tamiya Sky Gray Acrylic thinned way down. I thought it was worth a try.

C= Dry brushed undiluted Sky Gray Acrylic. I thought is was worth a try.

D= Old Master Aged Oak on decking. I am disappointed with the stains performance here. The decking would not absorb it. I "soaked" this spot several times and the stain mostly comes off. You can see some coloration but it's not much. 

E= Zars Coastal Board. This seem to colorize better but you lose a lot of detail.

If you have any thoughts, I'd like to hear them. Not sure what I think of this yet.

I wonder if they sealed it with something.

Coming right along Crown

Bakster, I wonder if you try some pastels. They usually work for me for weathering.

goldhammer

I wonder if they sealed it with something.

 

modelcrazy

Bakster, I wonder if you try some pastels. They usually work for me for weathering.

Are you talking about colored pencils? Or pastel sticks? Interesting idea, tell me more.

When I use pastels, they are a powder. Kind of like ground chalk. Use a brush that will never have another use and kind of grind it in.

Weathering ships is a trick because they don't get dirty other than the upper parts from smoke, which gets really dirty. but they get salty and rusty and chipped up if operating in an icy climate where the ice gets chipped off by the deck division.

Bakster,

Work will take me to Honolulu today. I could pop over to Pearl and visit the USS Missouri and get some reference photos for you if you want. Just let me know what you need.

I know she has been refitted many times, but there might be something useful.

GMorrison

the deck division

That's why they're called deck apes. 

Bakster, like GM said, you have to be careful about it. It's the nuclear option if you will. Use pastel powder and lightly brush it on. Decks get worn with constant sea water and traffic, but are pretty tough. The world learned a thing or two from centuries of sailing. If the deck is painted, ie. American ships then the paint will wear off in high traffic areas but the deck apes, or the "Boats" rather, will get them on it to repaint. It takes a lot of time during transient from one duty station to another. The hull is a different matter. You can't get a lot of guys over the rail in boatswains chairs to needle gun and paint underway.

If you use a pastel in a color you trying to achieve it might just work. 

mach71

Bakster,

Work will take me to Honolulu today. I could pop over to Pearl and visit the USS Missouri and get some reference photos for you if you want. Just let me know what you need.

 

I know she has been refitted many times, but there might be something useful.

 

modelcrazy

 

 

GMorrison

the deck division

 

 

That's why they're called deck apes. 

 

modelcrazy

Bakster, like GM said, you have to be careful about it. It's the nuclear option if you will. Use pastel powder and lightly brush it on. Decks get worn with constant sea water and traffic, but are pretty tough. The world learned a thing or two from centuries of sailing. If the deck is painted, ie. American ships then the paint will wear off in high traffic areas but the deck apes, or the "Boats" rather, will get them on it to repaint. It takes a lot of time during transient from one duty station to another. The hull is a different matter. You can't get a lot of guys over the rail in boatswains chairs to needle gun and paint underway.

If you use a pastel in a color you trying to achieve it might just work. 

 

I guess I will try the pastels next. I have doubts about this, mainly because the decking seems to have a coating that is non-porous. My fear is that it will be like the stain, it won't stick. Pastels are cheap enough though, so it won't hurt to try it.

Bakster

I have doubts about this, mainly because the decking seems to have a coating that is non-porous. My fear is that it will be like the stain, it won't stick.

I just had a thought. I wonder what would happen if I sprayed a layer of Dullcote. Maybe that would give the pastel something to sink it's teeth into. As is, the coating on the deck seems to be a hard gloss.

Spitballing. 

I have a few things I can try. Worst case, I leave it as is and move on.

Bakster: I've got some photos of the USS Wisconsin somewhere, I need to find them but keep forgetting. Going out to Norfolk/Virginia Beach on vacation in November, if you need any photos I'll see about taking them for you.

Nick: That PT boat is looking sharp!!! 

Oh Funny;

  I am getting to this one late. How about the S.S.Edmund Fitzgerald? A card Model for sure.The company makes quite a few lakers. Tanker Builder

TB, the Fitzgerald would be great. I've never tried a card model before but think they look great when done.

I'll get you on the roster tonight. 

thanks guy's for your comments.

TB the fitzgerald thats is intresting in card stock?

Bakster good luck with that planking.

latest pics on pt boat.