SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Ships of the American Flag GB 2019 -2021

16848 views
808 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Friday, September 20, 2019 7:42 AM

Yeah Mach71 that does look sharp!!! Heart

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Boston
Posted by mach71 on Friday, September 20, 2019 8:57 AM

Thanks!

 

I've masked the boat and put a few drops of Micro-mask on the periscopes and snorkel.

 

When the micro mask is dry I'll hit it with some camo grey. Hopefully the mask will come off easily. I've not had good luch with it in the past. 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Boise ID area
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, September 20, 2019 10:11 AM

Micro Mask sounds like an good and easy idea

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, September 20, 2019 10:14 AM

White glue works well too.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Friday, September 20, 2019 10:29 AM

When masking the whole model to spray something like that I tend to just stick the model in a plastic shopping bag and cut a small slit to stick the portion I want to paint out of it. 

Would save you a bunch of tape and doesn't have the issues of peeling up the paint.  

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, September 20, 2019 10:30 AM

Or poke a hole in a piece of aluminum foil.

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Boston
Posted by mach71 on Friday, September 20, 2019 12:09 PM

Thanks!

 

The bag or aluminum foil would have worked well.

 

The Micro mask just diapeared. I could not find it after the paint dried.

I went with the old school of a micro brush and flat black.

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, September 20, 2019 5:02 PM

Modelcrazy- please revise the roster to add Revell 1/540 CVB-41 USS Midway full hull conversion.

The heavy lifting for Frankenship is complete. The Forrestal lower hull worked well, esp. in the middle sections. I did build up a new stern, and had to splice styrene into some of the bigger gaps.

A trick I've learned for filling gaps with styrene. Let's say you have a gap that's more or less 0.020". Rather than try to fish a 0.020" strip into it, take a scrap of 0.020" sheet styrene and force it in edgewise. Do it an inch or so at a time. Flood with solvent cement. When dry, trim off the extra and sand it down to be flush.

 

Bill

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Boise ID area
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, September 20, 2019 8:26 PM

GMorrison
Modelcrazy- please revise the roster to add Revell 1/540 CVB-41 USS Midway full hull conversion.

Ooops, sorry about that GM, done Yes

Awesome job on that hull. I like the filling on the stern. Good idea about the scap styrine gap filler.

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by TheMongoose on Saturday, September 21, 2019 3:21 PM

FINISHED!  Can't tell you how ecstatic I am over this one because I think the image I was trying to capture is really representative of the cruise. Here is the USS Vandegrift as fitted out in 1995. I've weathered her for an active cruise doing missile system tests as shown here (Wikimedia Commons):

And my representation:

 

Once I had the action up front I just couldn't set the helo on the deck so I have big brother taking off, the doors closing for his berth and the other opening to bring out her other brother.

 

And here are some other ones to show some details and how she fitted out. 

I plugged the original hole for the rudder and offset it like the real thing. The prop is aluminum color on the drydock photos I have so recreated that look here. Yes, I found the prop on my workbench!

Testors clear canopy/window glue used across the board.

 

6 weeks start to finish. I used MCW lacquer paints for everything; light ghost grey on verticals and a lightened mix with 10% white for center panels and oil canning down the sides(washed out in the latest photos though but it is there), and dark ghost grey for the horizontals with a 10% black mix for tonal variation. Primer is Citadel Chaos Black for the hull and MCW grey for the PE and plastic. Only 1 piece of Pontos PE was lost during the build and I was able to fold up a new piece out of scrap. The Desron on each side of the superstructure wasn't provided so I hand painted them. I also tried the Flexy 5k CA for handrails and some of the parts that stick out, like the flag mast, to see how it works. It takes longer to dry, more like thick CA in time. Acts like a medium CA. Is easy to remove and redo. More ships to come as I am way better at this than planes. Definitely going to continue using PE sets where I can. Awesome Group Build. I'll be back for more after I build the bomber my daughter got me for my birthday!

In the pattern: Revell's B-2 Stealth Bomber. My daughter was excited about this one. It was her favorite at the USAF Museum.

  • Member since
    August 2015
  • From: the redlands Fl
Posted by crown r n7 on Saturday, September 21, 2019 4:39 PM

Stunning job, the detail is awesome the PE gives it the right touch.

Nick.

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Saturday, September 21, 2019 7:32 PM

Absolutely beautiful build. Well deserved congrats.  Send pics for online/mag gallery.Bow DownBow DownWow

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, September 21, 2019 11:04 PM

Hey Mongoose, that is really really nice work. I love the details you added depicting movement, from the hovering helicopter, the opening doors, to the missile frozen in time. That is really impressive work. You nailed it, sir! Congrats!

Bow Down

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Sunday, September 22, 2019 12:17 AM

Really good modeling...

The missile launch is well done.

The helo is nicely done.

But I would suggest one or the other.

Otherwise, it's a wonderful model.

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by TheMongoose on Sunday, September 22, 2019 6:39 AM

Crown, GH, Bakster thanks a bunch! Appreciate the props. 

GMorrison

Really good modeling...

The missile launch is well done.

The helo is nicely done.

But I would suggest one or the other.

Otherwise, it's a wonderful model.

 

yeah, I might have gotten carried away. Probably not realistic, i was especially thinking the man-doors wouldn’t be half open with the missile scenario but that ship already sailed lol, so i left it. I didn’t glue the rod in for the helo. Maybe I should consider staging it from the base instead? Open to ideas.

In the pattern: Revell's B-2 Stealth Bomber. My daughter was excited about this one. It was her favorite at the USAF Museum.

  • Member since
    October 2009
Posted by Kentucky Colonel on Sunday, September 22, 2019 7:27 AM

Great job!!!!

  • Member since
    August 2013
  • From: Michigan
Posted by Straycat1911 on Sunday, September 22, 2019 11:31 AM

Plugging away on the Fletcher.

Superstructure sides for the main deck and the shafts are installed. 

I need to fill some seams before I install the upper deck. 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Boise ID area
Posted by modelcrazy on Sunday, September 22, 2019 12:06 PM

Mongoose,

Outstanding job!

The rigging and PE really make it pop. I love the missile and helo, although I have to echo GM on that. I do not believe they would be launching while performing air operations but your exicution of the scene is excelent Yes. I agree that you should send it into FSM for the gallery.

It will be a pleasure to see you build another either in the American or British GB's, or the German comming next August.

Captian, I present you with the Navy Achievement ribbon

Defination of acheivement: a thing done successfully, typically by effort, courage, or skill.

 

Please grab your badge and ribbon, if you want, and display them proudly.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Boise ID area
Posted by modelcrazy on Sunday, September 22, 2019 12:09 PM

Straycat, I can't get over the size of that thing.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, September 22, 2019 4:43 PM

All subassembly work is done. Like a jigsaw puzzle, I thought it'd be fun to position them for a photograph. There are several items not on the model simply because they'd be too difficult to pose. None of the superstructure is glued down, nor decking or the waterline spacer.

From here I will glue the deck, then the waterline piece. After that I'll move towards PE.

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Boise ID area
Posted by modelcrazy on Sunday, September 22, 2019 9:57 PM

Looks fantastic Bakster

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by steve5 on Sunday, September 22, 2019 10:06 PM

Really moving  loving along mate . Looks great .

Wanted to ask , how did you cut the brass tubing for your guns , without pinching the tubing

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, September 22, 2019 11:17 PM

modelcrazy

Looks fantastic Bakster

 

Thanks Admiral! 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Sunday, September 22, 2019 11:27 PM

modelcrazy

It will be a pleasure to see you build another ...  or the German coming next

I'm in for that. SMS Sharnhorst, 1914 Battle of the Falkland Islands.

Combrig resin full hull.

This would suggest a promotion to Vizeadmiral, nein?

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, September 22, 2019 11:39 PM

steve5

Really moving  loving along mate . Looks great .

Wanted to ask , how did you cut the brass tubing for your guns , without pinching the tubing

 

Thanks Steve. Yeah, steady progress. 

To your question, I used a Dremel cut off wheel like shown below. It cuts through tubing in no time. You are left with a burr, but that is easily filed and then sanded flat. I eventually figured out that if I slowly rotate the tubing using my fingers whilst I cut, I can get a much cleaner edge. In short, less cleanup. 

It’s a handy bit to have when working with metal. (Wear eye protection) 

 

  

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, September 22, 2019 11:41 PM

Forgot to post the image to my post. It is now added.

  • Member since
    August 2013
  • From: Michigan
Posted by Straycat1911 on Monday, September 23, 2019 3:47 AM

modelcrazy

Straycat, I can't get over the size of that thing.

 

Yeah, I’m sure I’m under the two square feet rule on my workbench. 

Thinking I may have to move it to the kitchen table. 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Monday, September 23, 2019 11:29 AM

Mongoose: She looks amazing!!! Great job there!!! WOW!!! Heart

 

And great work all you other guys too!!! 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, September 23, 2019 11:50 AM

Bakster

To your question, I used a Dremel cut off wheel like shown below. It cuts through tubing in no time. You are left with a burr, but that is easily filed and then sanded flat. I eventually figured out that if I slowly rotate the tubing using my fingers whilst I cut, I can get a much cleaner edge. In short, less cleanup. 

It’s a handy bit to have when working with metal. (Wear eye protection) 

 

Here's a trick I learned. Those little abrasive disks are fragile and they tend to shatter. I will often double up two of them at once. It makes the tool much stronger. 

It's also a good (really the only) way to cut off stranded stainless steel aircraft cable.

 

Bill

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, September 23, 2019 5:25 PM

In between coats of primer curing, I started work on topside details.

The 5" guns at first seemed to be detailed and look "busy", but closer examination shows that in typical 1960's model fashion; Revell added a lot of made up detail, like those rivets on the roof.

Also the weird draft shapes on the sides and the casting block under the barrel.

Basically I just cleaned it all off. The things look kind of simple now, but they should.

I also clipped off and reattached the barrels at an upward angle, as they normally would be.

 

 

 

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS

FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.