I'll try and be descriptive and brief. It took a little planning (head scratching) and some scratch building but, I managed to correct most of the errors.
Tamiya suspension/road wheels, etc. this ain't - so to speak. I like the way a Tamiya suspension with the poly caps is "rollable". Makes it easy to put the Fruils on. Kinda' like doing it on the real thing. Check the fit of the suspension arms (B1) for the rear idler wheels to the hull...mine were really sloppy...lots of play and NO locating pin, slot, key, etc. I used plastic tubing (drilled out to accommodate the idler arms) in the hull to tighten things up. You have to leave the arms moveable until you're ready to mount the tracks, then you can eyeball the spacing of the rear idler wheel to the last road wheel, apply cement and you're done. Also the way the drive sprockets have to be cemented to the final drives (A6) leaves plenty of room for error and ought to be stronger to support the metal tracks. I used gap filling super glue to make the joint. In hindsight, I'd probably just cut off the mounting "pins" on the final drives drill them out and insert a metal axle thru the hull to hold the drive sprockets. I used 96 tracks on one side and 94 on the other, (this is due to the leading and trailing idler arm arrangement).
The kit's lack of side skirts works to your advantage. You can also remove the outer fenders on rear fenders C8 & C9, like I did or remove them and scratch build them as folded over. This will give you some room to work around the rear idlers when the time comes. You'll also want to shave off the mounting pads/tabs on the front fenders for the non-existent side skirts.
I left the travel lock for the cannon off the front plate, until I had the superstructure (C36) mounted to the hull. The reason for this is that the hull (@ the front tow points) needs to be spread slightly to fit the superstructure nose into the slots in the hull because of the cannon assy. located in the hull. I didn't want to have the travel lock pop off whilst applying a little "persuasion". You can avoid this altogether if you leave off the superstructure front (D38), until you have the superstructure (C36) mounted to the hull. You'll probably have to fill & rework the armor mortise joints on the hull superstructure sides once you attach the superstructure front (D38) to the hull regardless.
Leave the rear doors off or at least open until you get the gun mantle/gun tube set. You'll be able to hold the cannon assembly located in the interior from the inside as you mount the gun tube and mantle assy. from the front. This will make your life easier! The fit of the gun tube (D1 & D2) to the gun mantle (D37) was really sloppy also. I wound up inserting a piece of plastic tubing (drilled out to accommodate the gun barrel) in the mantle to take up the slack. I also added a scratch built gun tube to replace the kit's plastic one. This is optional but, metal or plastic you still need to take up the slack in the gun mantle.
Hope this helps.
-John