You can mix the grey paint you used with white to get it little bit lighter and then use it on the upper sides of the hull and turret.  Then make it just a little bit lighter for the top of the hull and top of the turret.  Leave the very lower sides of hull as is.  This would simulate fading causeed by the sun and then you can use a dust wash to get the effect you want.  MIG, Vallejo, and AK all make a good dust wash.

Thanks Marcus

You can search in youtube "how to" (Mig Jimenez)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCUaT7EzDC8

Also i buy the last years alot of books...Tank Art volume 1-4 is fantastic.

Or look for magazines online or in a bookstore.

FAQ2,Finescale modeler is also fantastic book.

And Rome is also not builded on one day....

Best way is start with white,then a few drups of dark grey...always test it on the bottom of the tank.Use a paper to cover the spots that you want it darker.

That grey looks spot on to me. I don't go with the idea of lightning the top areas myself. Dot filtering gives a good ground in dust look and pigments.

First question you need to ask yourself. Do you want a realistic or artistic finish. Modelers tend to go one way or the other and that will determine how you approach ''weathering''

Marcus McBean

You can mix the grey paint you used with white to get it little bit lighter and then use it on the upper sides of the hull and turret.  Then make it just a little bit lighter for the top of the hull and top of the turret.  Leave the very lower sides of hull as is.  This would simulate fading causeed by the sun and then you can use a dust wash to get the effect you want.  MIG, Vallejo, and AK all make a good dust wash.

 

I do the same in a lot of my stuff. I think the correct term is colour modulation. If you look around the internet and YouTube you can probably find some demos on how to pull this off. 

And as Bish said there's two paths to take here. You might want to experiment with both on some cheap models like old Tamiya kits till you find the path that works for you. If you don't the results you can always either paint over or strip it and start again!

I think that is one of my hurdles. I feel like I have to get it right the first time AND a tank has to have a specific color.

I'm realizing a tank looks a certain way because YOU chose it to look that way.

I appreciate all the advice!

acctingman

I'm realizing a tank looks a certain way because YOU chose it to look that way.

Personally, I think you're more correct than you know, there!

The idea of the modulation technique really pivots on the concept that light interacts with a full-size tank in a different way than it does with a teeny plastic one - so to trick the viewer's eye, modulation is a fast cheat to sort of pre-apply shadows (in my 3D modeling days that was called "baking" a texture) and shade things more than the natural light on your model will do. This has the effect of making a tank's "color" be much less absolute, and subject to perception - and you as the modeler can have fun bending the viewer's perception to your will *insert howls of megalomaniacal laughter*

Ultimately, though, something to remember (particularly with German WWII tanks) is that in the early part of the war there was a lot better QC in the paint factory than later, by late war materials were getting scarce and color was sort of all over the map. I've seen greenish-gray, blue-gray, dark gray, pale gray etc. So, IMO, it's your model, just have fun with it. Matte coats, dust and weathering can have a lightening effect on the model, too, so after you achieve that dusty effect you mentioned you may find you're grateful for staying with the dark look. Just my $.02 and I am NOT the expert these other gents are, ha.

Thanks for the comments Jacob

I'm setting this one aside for a couple days will I finish up my Stug IV.

Appreciate all the wisdom here.