Friul tracks, straight pins.. snippers?

Crockett

How do you know what size pins to use with which track links? I have some Friuls and would like to use this method to assemble them

modelbuilder wrote:

Crockett How do you know what size pins to use with which track links? I have some Friuls and would like to use this method to assemble them

I use the same pins for all buddy.

My SdFz 7:

the same on the 251;

The Panther:

regards,

Steve

crockett wrote:

modelbuilder wrote: Crockett How do you know what size pins to use with which track links? I have some Friuls and would like to use this method to assemble them I use the same pins for all buddy. My SdFz 7: the same on the 251; The Panther: regards, Steve

Steve

What is the exact size of the stick pins and where do you buy yours? The tracks look awesome and this technique seems very simple

Modelbuilder,

Be aware that the larger tank track blocks do not require drilling, (some modelers still drill them), I simply 'press fit' them into the soft metal Fruil blocks, then clip and CA the ends. However, on smaller blocks, such as the 251, Pz III/.IV, etc., drilling the blocks IS required, as the link holes are smaller diameter.

I use a #73 drill, which is .024, the pins glide easily into this ID, so I would estimate them in the .020 range. They are common tailoring straight pins, available off the shelf. I get mine from the sewing dept. of our local Wal Mart. They are hardened steel wire, so cut them with a hearty set of side cutters:

Steve

There are some small brass brads that work nicely for this and have domed heads so you won't have to snip the heads off since they look just like the connecting pins for tracks. Wooden ship model builders use these alot. I use them for very small rivets for jewelry or to make rivets for modelbuilding (i.e. panzer 38t)

Another laternative is to go to the fabric store and pick up a package of Sequin Pins. These are fine pins, smaller than dress makers or tailoring pins,  with a very small head. The perfect size for track connecting pins and again you don't have to snip the heads off.

I find a pair of jewlers end snippers works great and lets me cut the pins flush.

renarts wrote:

There are some small brass brads that work nicely for this and have domed heads so you won't have to snip the heads off since they look just like the connecting pins for tracks. Wooden ship model builders use these alot. I use them for very small rivets for jewelry or to make rivets for modelbuilding (i.e. panzer 38t) Another laternative is to go to the fabric store and pick up a package of Sequin Pins. These are fine pins, smaller than dress makers or tailoring pins,  with a very small head. The perfect size for track connecting pins and again you don't have to snip the heads off. I find a pair of jewlers end snippers works great and lets me cut the pins flush.

Actually, the track pins did not have 'domed' heads, they were flanged. At 1/35th scale, this is almost invisible. (See pic) Most of the time, you dont have to 'clip' the pin heads, because they are on the inside, as the Fruils are molded sided. The clipping comes in when you are using the smaller width blocks, the pin length is almost double the track block width at scale, so you simply cut them flush. It takes about thirty seconds to complete.

Steve

Yes and no. I guess it becomes an issue of vehicle type. While some have the flanged heads, some none at all, others do have a domed or at least convex shaped head.

stug, flanged heads with retainer pins. Something I don't want to replicate in 1/35 but who ever does, I'll name someones first born after you.

35t track detail, domed heads.

panzer 1, domed heads, at the least convex.

panzer 3, domed heads

crockett wrote:

Modelbuilder, Be aware that the larger tank track blocks do not require drilling, (some modelers still drill them), I simply 'press fit' them into the soft metal Fruil blocks, then clip and CA the ends. However, on smaller blocks, such as the 251, Pz III/.IV, etc., drilling the blocks IS required, as the link holes are smaller diameter. I use a #73 drill, which is .024, the pins glide easily into this ID, so I would estimate them in the .020 range. They are common tailoring straight pins, available off the shelf. I get mine from the sewing dept. of our local Wal Mart. They are hardened steel wire, so cut them with a hearty set of side cutters:   Steve

Thanks Steve. I probably should have mentioned that I am planning on using this technique on a set of Friul. Sherman Firfly tracks

modelbuilder wrote:

crockett wrote: Modelbuilder, Be aware that the larger tank track blocks do not require drilling, (some modelers still drill them), I simply 'press fit' them into the soft metal Fruil blocks, then clip and CA the ends. However, on smaller blocks, such as the 251, Pz III/.IV, etc., drilling the blocks IS required, as the link holes are smaller diameter. I use a #73 drill, which is .024, the pins glide easily into this ID, so I would estimate them in the .020 range. They are common tailoring straight pins, available off the shelf. I get mine from the sewing dept. of our local Wal Mart. They are hardened steel wire, so cut them with a hearty set of side cutters:   Steve   Thanks Steve. I probably should have mentioned that I am planning on using this technique on a set of Friul. Sherman Firfly tracks

I bet they will look sharp on that Shermie. I hear the kit tracks are a bear. Good luck with the project.

Steve

renarts wrote:

Yes and no. I guess it becomes an issue of vehicle type. While some have the flanged heads, some none at all, others do have a domed or at least convex shaped head. stug, flanged heads with retainer pins. Something I don't want to replicate in 1/35 but who ever does, I'll name someones first born after you.   35t track detail, domed heads.   Oh, I see, you and I are basically on the same page. Domes,flanges...whatever. My point is that at 1/35th and below, the track pins are very hard to discern visually. I'm sure trying to model these at scale would be beyond my humble abilities. Of course the shipbuilding crew would probably say 'No sweat!'   Steve   panzer 1, domed heads, at the least convex.   panzer 3, domed heads

crockett wrote:

modelbuilder wrote:  crockett wrote: Modelbuilder, Be aware that the larger tank track blocks do not require drilling, (some modelers still drill them), I simply 'press fit' them into the soft metal Fruil blocks, then clip and CA the ends. However, on smaller blocks, such as the 251, Pz III/.IV, etc., drilling the blocks IS required, as the link holes are smaller diameter. I use a #73 drill, which is .024, the pins glide easily into this ID, so I would estimate them in the .020 range. They are common tailoring straight pins, available off the shelf. I get mine from the sewing dept. of our local Wal Mart. They are hardened steel wire, so cut them with a hearty set of side cutters:   Steve Steve Finally got my pins today and was just wondering if you clip the points off of yours   Thanks Steve. I probably should have mentioned that I am planning on using this technique on a set of Friul. Sherman Firfly tracks I bet they will look sharp on that Shermie. I hear the kit tracks are a bear. Good luck with the project.   Steve

I use a technique similar to Crockett's with a few minor adjustments.  I use Dritz dressmaker pins as they have a much smaller head than most other straight pins.  I always drill out the holes with a pin vice if only because it makes assembly easier.  I figure out the right size for the pins by trial and error and make a simple mark on each with a permanent marker so I know where to cut.  I use a Xuron hard wire cutter which goes through steel pins like a hot knife through butter (no effort at all they're designed to cut through music wire).  The other advantage of these cutters is they cut off pefectly square and if you're a hair long on the cut, you can move it up abit and nibble the end... something that's hard to do with side cutters without having them slip.  Just an aside about the Firefly tracks... I'd go with the indie track by RHPS because the Fruil track will tend to sag a lot more than Shermie track generally did.

                                                                                                          Chuck

Curvature is pretty common. Lay the track out straight, and flex it the opposite way it curves. Or, roll the track up and flex it bit by bit as you roll.

BTW for those asking about pin sizes, use the #17's - you can get them at WallyWorld (in the US) - it is a perfect fit.