Sd.Kfz.7/1 2cm Flakvierling 38 WIP: Update 5/31/09 Body assembly part I

Really looking so far, can't wait to see the vierling get fitted,

cheers,

Julian

gingermeggs wrote:

What a wonderfull source of information is the internet. I am so glad I found your build as I have ordered this model from Dragon USA and am awaiting its arrival. As I am a marine builder and this is my first armour project your build will be invaluable to me. I was wondering if maybe I was a little too ambitious with this choice but I will be pleased to learn from yours. Regards Les

Hi Les, welcome to the dark side,

cheers,

Julian

     Hey folks, just an apology for dropping the ball on this one.  A variety of things conspired to keep me away from the bench for a period of about 6 weeks in June/July.  But during that period, I was busy reading Samuel Eliot Morison's 15 volume History of the US Naval Operations in WWII.  Next thing you know, I'm pulling out the unfinished Trumpeter P-38 Lightning 1/32 that I started a year ago and gave up on (Trumpeter fit issues) and planning on finishing it is USAAF garb.  And then on a whim, I purchased the Revell 1/144 Fletcher Class destroyer and the Eduard 6 fret PE detail set for that with visions of DD-450 USN O'Bannon maneuvering up The Slot in '42-'43.  It seems that my unit has been transferred to the PTO, at least temporarily.  I'll eventually return to the ETO and complete this.  C'est la guerre!

 Don

wbill76 wrote:

Sharp work (no pun intended!) all around Don particularly on those vent slits.

Thanks, Bill.  Just gotta mention that the tool used on those vents is the sole survivor of my old College Biology Lab dissecting kit, ... circa (should I really admit it..) 1973-4.  A real handy little thing that has now found a permanent place in my modeling tool box.

 Don

The front fender sub-assembly is constructed and added to the chassis in step 9.  Fit is perfect as the exhaust pipes, air cleaner and radiator pipe all line up perfectly with their mates on the fender assembly.  The radiator fan also fits nicely and few pieces of PE are added in this step.  I'll have to hand paint the air filter after final assembly of the engine compartment.

The only problem is that once installed as I have done here, it will be a bear to paint without alot of masking of the chassis.  Because of that, all the remaining body assemblies will be built and given a primer of Mr. Surfacer 1200 and a basecoat of Tamiya German gray prior to gluing to the chassis.

The assembly of the body and fenders is carried out in steps 10,11,12 and 13.  I'm sorry for the scribblings on the instructions as there are lots of small pieces that can be added in these steps, but I usually leave them for later so I don't knock them off during handling and assembly.

The rear deck/fenders and driver's compartment are assembled in multiple pieces. 

The spare tire compartment is also built on the underside of the rear decking.  The spare itself is still masked here.

The instructions then show the assembly of the engine firewall and dash board and call for gluing this to the rear deck/fenders.  The steering wheel support is molded solid but can be easily drilled out using the appropriate sized bits. 

The dash itself has some fine detail in the guages, but I'm planning to use some Archer dry transfers to detail the guage faces.  The dash supports are a bit fiddly; line them up and let them dry thoroughly before continuing with the dash plate itself.

The vented side engine panels are also molded solid.  I used a sharp dissecting needle to undercut each vent to give them a little better definition.

As stated above, the instructions call for gluing the dash assembly to the driver's assembly  prior to fitting to the chassis.  But dry fitting the rear deck to the chassis suggested that this would be a problem if done as per the instructions.  I'm not sure yet whether this arises from something that I did or is just a very dificult fit, but I found that I could more easily fit the rear deck and then fit the dash/firewall afterwards.  So for now, proceed with caution here and I'll try to get a better grip on what is going on as I do the final assembly.

 Don

    Wow, my apologies to everyone for the late response.  I've been traveling on business and haven't had the time or internet connection to follow up with responses or to progress much with the build.  So first, let me thank everyone who commented after my last post.  It's nice to have you following the build.  I hope to have an update soon, since I have gotten a little bench time this weekend. 

Bodge:  First name basis is fine... hows the Famo coming?

'Zaster:  that eye is spooky

 Don

      great build so far Don, if i may use your first name? its comming on nicely

   I hear you Dissastermaster

  Pordoi you really have out done yourself on that undercarriage!

  I vaguely remember when I built the Tamiya kit (built it twice first one was destroyed in a fire) back when I was a teen and like doog said what a difference in detail.

Don you do excellent work!!

she's looking great so far, I especially like how the motor turned out. There is a lot of detail in the chassis area, so I agree with Bill, a mirror to show it off would be perfect.

Rob

Lookin' good Don. Maybe this will motivate Bodge to finish his FAMO. I'll be tuned in to this 'un,

while keepin' an eye out for Bodge too.

What a wonderfull source of information is the internet. I am so glad I found your build as I have ordered this model from Dragon USA and am awaiting its arrival.

As I am a marine builder and this is my first armour project your build will be invaluable to me.

I was wondering if maybe I was a little too ambitious with this choice but I will be pleased to learn from yours.

Regards Les 

pordoi: I'm a bit pressed for time but I wanted to chime in so I can get updated as you post WIP's...I admire our work and look forward to watching this one come together.  It's especialy of interest to me because I built one not too long ago...do you recall my heavy snow winter camo' version of the old Tamiya kit? 

Nice subject, happy building!

Terry35:  Welcome to the 7/1 peanut gallery!

caSSius:  Well, I may be slow but I'm pretty sure that I can finish in under 19 years...

Schnobs:  Welcome aboard and thanks for the comments.

Marc:  Thanks for looking in.

 Don

Wow looking good Don!  I really like your build log style as well.

Looking great Don...and although I'm anxious to see this progress, you don't have to be so hard on yourself for your "slow" progress: I have the old Tamiya rendition of the 7 that I started...uhmmmm....19 years ago. You're making great progress in my books!...

Coincidently, it's the kit that's re-risen to the top of the stash...so as I start back into it in the coming days, I'm sure you'll be making me jealous with the quality of your kit.

Cheers

Hi, Don, your off to a great start and I am eager to see how you progress with this build.

Good luck.

Terry.

wbill76 wrote:

You'll have to mount this baby on a mirror-base when you're finished (either that or have it overturned in a ditch!) so that nice chassis detail can still be admired in the end.

  Hmmm..., that would be a challenging dio to construct.  Interesting idea!  I'll give it some thought.

Tigerman:  The cable is silk thread that I found in the jewelry section at the local Michael's.  It's used to make bead bracelets and necklaces.  Nicely woven and with a quick coat of metallic gray, it makes for a nice tow cable.  Might also use it to replace that wirey cable that DML supplies on its PzIV kits.

 Don

I told you I'm slow.  Took only 11 days to paint and assemble the chassis.  Pretty much everything in the undercarraige is put together in step 8. 

Initially, I thought that this was alot of work for something that will not even be visible in the finished model.  But it turns out the most of the chassis will be visible if one simply turns the model over.  So it's worth the effort afterall.

All the parts were primed with a light coat of Mr. Surfacer 1200 and then given a base coat of Tamiya german gray acrylic (XF-63).  The engine, gear box, other drive train parts and winch were sprayed with Alclad II steel and then given a light uneven spray with Alclad II jet exhaust.  Everything was then given oil washes; black to highlight detail and shades of sienna to simulate dirt/rust.  Going against conventional wisdom of not doing oil washes over a laquer base, I like the way that the solvent based wash wears away some of the Alclad and gives the engine and drive train a used, weathered look.  The long term plan is to give this vehicle a winter white wash.  My first go at the hairspray technique.  So I'll have to read up on how to do it and then probably come back with a question or two to those of you who have already used hairspray (on yor models, I mean )

And lastly, no problems with the dreaded floating front wheels that seem to plaque the DML 251 kits. 

Tracks went together very easily and are completely workable.  Next up; step 9 which begins assembly of the  cab and gun deck. 

 Don

Got a little more time this evening to work at the bench and continued with the assembly of the interior components.  Steps 3 and 4 call for assembly of the Maybach engine and transmission.  The engine itself is comprised of 15 parts and builds into a nice in-line 6 cylinder powerhouse.  Use caution in removing the radiator fan from the sprue; there are numerous attachment points.  I liked the exploded side view that is included in the instructions as it shows nicely the placement of parts D47/52 abd D55.

The assembled engine...

Step 4 is a simple 4 part assembly but the fit of B26 to B29 wasn't great and required some filling and sanding.

Step 5 assembles the winch.  Straightforward and without any problems. The drive sprockets were also put together here.

Step 6 adds a few components to the frame assembly, but part B54 (see photo above) was no where to be found in my kit.  It wasn't attached to the sprue and wasn't loose in the box.  Gone.  At least it's a part that will not be visible when fully assembled.

It was interesting that the tires were molded in the softer Dragon styrene.  Nice tread detail and a good fit to the hubs.   But they were mounted on a ring of the harder plastic.  Cost cutting measure? Or does the Dragon styrene need the extra support?  We'll see what kind of a seam shows on the inside of the tire surface when a coat of paint is applied.  This will be important if one wishes to mount the front wheels in a turned postion.

Lastly,  a word of caution that dry fitting is essential for proper placement of the transmission, fuel tank and winch to the frame.  The instructions simple show arrows indicating attachment points, but these are not obvious without some trial and error.  Take care to note how the transmission is positioned relative to the cross support in the frame assembly.  It is shown best in step 7, not in step 6 which directs you to add the sub-assembly.  An error here will mean that the fuel tank will not mount properly which in subsequent steps will make for an improper fit of the floor panels in step 13. 

 Same is true for the winch assembly.  Dry fit and make sure that you understand how it attaches to the frame before gluing.  It's not immediately obvious from step 7 of the instructions, unless the arrow shown above is clear to you.... 

 That's all for now. Next step is to assemble the rear towing pintle assembly and glue it on.  Then, it's time to give the chassis, engine and other components some paint before moving on.  I assume that the chassis was oversprayed with panzer gray (or body color) rather than left in primer?  At least that is what I had planned.  Let me know otherwise if this was not the case.  Thanks.

 Don

Cool..now we need some one to do the Trumpeter kit. I'll be watching this build too.

Rob