Micro-sol vs Solvaset?

Sol is much stringer than Set.  I rarely use Sol.  If you getting air bubbles it because you have air underneath.  Not trying to be  smarthindqutaters but the air cannot get in there unless you leave it there.  I always slide and position decal with plain water.  I wick away the water with a q-tip or tissue.  Use some Set to get it wet and genty... and quickly before the decal gets soft... with with a brash from the center out to get all the bubbles out.

For the paint it sounds like your paint is not fully dry/cured.  Sol and Set shouldn't have any effect on paint.

Whoa.. just notice the title of the thread.  I was talking about the difference between MicroSet and MicroSol....not Solveset.  That to decal solutions is what grain alcohol is to booze.  I can almost count on 1 hand the numbers of times I needed to pull that trigger.

Belt Fed - I totally agree with Micosol which is taking up space on my shelf. I use Solveset. I make the decal lay down and conform. I have have few bubble problems but if I do...just work them out.

Given the choice between the two, I like Solveset hands gown...IMO

Rounds Complete!!

Test on spares to see if you need full-strength or diluted mix..

Hammer do you use it straight from the bottle or do you cut it with water?

Hey Hammer: That viniger is also for stuberon decals put a couple drops in your water to help brake them loose.                   ACESES5

sometimes with me also.. escpecialy over Future. I do get a ring or "stain" from both.. if I go over Testers gloss.. no issues...

as for bubbles.. pricking the bubbles, or rolling a q tip over the decal will work it out..

I hate decals.  There, i said it.  My preference is stencils, masks, etc.   I got some german crosses, and allied stars, very nice multi sized metal stencils, for about the cost of a decal sheet. 

Sometimes, i realize, this will not work, then I use dry transfers.

Sometimes, this won't work, either.  i have only used Micro set and Micro sol, and I have only used them twice, I had no problems like you describe.  But I still hate decals.      

I use Solvaset exclusively over Future and never experienced any problems with it attacking paint through the Future. What type of paints do you use (I use enamels exclusively).

I always apply the decal into position first using water to wet the location first, then move the decal into position, adjust as necessary, then use the edge of a paper towel or a q-tip to wick away the extra water. This insures that the decal has minimal-to-none air underneath it. For larger decals I will also gently press it with the papertowel/q-tip to insure it's got good adhesion to the surface. Only then do I apply the Solvaset. On really complex surfaces the occasional air bubble will occur, under those conditions I will apply a spot of Solvaset and then gently "work" the bubble to lay down using either a brush, a toothpick end, brush handle, etc. depending on the size/nature of what I'm dealing with. Very rarely will I need to *** a bubble to get it to go away. HTH!

wbill76

I use Solvaset exclusively over Future and never experienced any problems with it attacking paint through the Future. What type of paints do you use (I use enamels exclusively).

I always apply the decal into position first using water to wet the location first, then move the decal into position, adjust as necessary, then use the edge of a paper towel or a q-tip to wick away the extra water. This insures that the decal has minimal-to-none air underneath it. For larger decals I will also gently press it with the papertowel/q-tip to insure it's got good adhesion to the surface. Only then do I apply the Solvaset. On really complex surfaces the occasional air bubble will occur, under those conditions I will apply a spot of Solvaset and then gently "work" the bubble to lay down using either a brush, a toothpick end, brush handle, etc. depending on the size/nature of what I'm dealing with. Very rarely will I need to *** a bubble to get it to go away. HTH!

Bill - I use the same method BUT.....Solveset is a solvent which softens the decal and also softens the Future....to some extent, thats how the edges of the decal blend in. If, like me you use acrylic paint.....it will also soften the paint. Now...with that said, if you apply solveset sparingly and when first applied, blot/soak the excess that migrates to the paint, you are fine.

If the soveset sits on the paint for a period long enough to almost let it evaporate.....it may leave a mark and the area where it dried will be soft and if touched will mar the finish

Solveset is GREAT for setting decals, but it is a solvent. Be careful not to have excess.

Even with enamel, it may not get at the paint but may mar the Future and thus give a surface effect!!

Rounds Complete!! 

I have use Micro-Sol &Set & while they have worked, I cant really say I have been very impressed - one thing is for sure (in my experience anyway), they dont give the "painted on" look as some claim.

I have considered using Solvaset, which I belive is stronger than Sol/Set, but was concerned about using them with Tamiya acrylics, although these are usually Future coated - any comments?

I've read several reports that Solvaset will virtually destroy some decals, so caution is indicated. I use MicroSol myself.

MQM107

Hammer do you use it straight from the bottle or do you cut it with water?

Depends... Usually I cut it by about 25%... But with thick ones, I use it straight up...

I have to say that i rarely, at all, use the bottle of microset on my hobbybench. Actually only to remove decals. Thinking about it i usually create more problems by using the solution than actually solving them...

 I found it to have little effect on the decalling process myself. Microsol however is my best friend. Usually takes a few coats to get to the place i wanna go but i never ever had any problems with it. Kinda like that since it gives more control in a way.

And like has been said before: You wont have any bubbles under your decals if you properly apply them in the first place. I found cotton swabs, demakeup pads (usually get funny looks at the counter when i buy them LOL) and the old trusty index finger to be most useful in that area.

In case i do find some bubbles under my decal i have this needle type tool that the ladies use for their greeting card hobby. It's really fine tipped and always solves my problems. I just cover my decal in dozens of tiny holes and apply set again. Never encountered visible holes afterwards. Maybe just luck i don't know...

Lastly i have to add that usually when i quit the decalling process and let the model sit on my bench overnight some bubbles actually dissapear by themselves Probably residue sol still at work i think...

Richard

P.s.: Oh... and you won't have any discoloured paint problems if you apply a layer of future or the likes before the decalling process. If there is any adverse effect at all your solution will attack the future and not your paint

I don't fell like MicroSol does anything much at all for me. I use Solvaset and put it on and then after a few minutes, use a wide, soft brush wetted with water to press the decal down--which also helps to dilute the Solvaset. I've never had problems with stains or paint degradation.

I pretty much do everything you guys said but still have problems.  Must be one of those things I guess (shrug)

I think its time for me to look into dry transfers and stencils.  One quick question on the matter then its off to bed- are "Archer fine transfers" decals or dry transfers?

Dry... But they also carry waterslide...

I have just returned to 1/35 modelling after 30 years and am frantically trying out all these " new" technologies and products . I am currently using micro set/sol and have started by simply applying over brushed acrylics with no real side effects other than a slight tide mark however I am not convinced they are significantly improved over the traditional water slide method . I will be trying them over Tamiya clear flat in the next couple of days 

Not so Sherman

I have just returned to 1/35 modelling after 30 years and am frantically trying out all these " new" technologies and products . I am currently using micro set/sol and have started by simply applying over brushed acrylics with no real side effects other than a slight tide mark however I am not convinced they are significantly improved over the traditional water slide method . I will be trying them over Tamiya clear flat in the next couple of days 

 

Nooo,you need to apply your decals over a glossy finish or they will not get down correctly and they will silver.You can use Future or any of the the available gloss coats,I prefer Alclad Aqua Gloss.As far as using setting solutions,you may not need them on a smooth surface,but they make a huge difference when your decal must go over panel lines,rivets,and protrusions,you absolutley need a setting solution.The Microsoft solutions work fine for all but the heaviest decals or the deeper panel lines or protusions.

On flat surfaces I can get by with Micosol, but if I need to put the decal on a unlevel surface I go right with Solveset.  Sometimes Solveset needs a little help.  I would have to make cuts into the decal to help to get the decal to lay down. 

I have to be careful not to use to much Solveset.  The decal will look like it's not laying right but after letting it dry for a few hours the decal conforms, tighten's and looks fine.  If doesn't look right I give it more and make adjustments.

On a panzer II I had to put number decals over door hinges on the side of the turret and Solveset made it possible with little effort.

I spray the model with Future and let it cure for 24 hours before I add the decals.  Never had a problem with either Micosol or Solveset affecting the paint job.  Once I am happy with how the decals look I put a coat of Future just over the decals to protect them and move on to weathering and such, after the Future has dried and cured.

All good advice. I've been using Micro Sol under decals, then coating them after application with Micro Set and this process seems to work well on most decals. I just got a bottle of Solvaset and am planning to try it. Although it doesn't give an authentic finish, I generally coat my warbird models in a clear gloss coat, and decals go on very nicely with the Sol and Set treatments. But in trying the Solvaset, which I understand is "hotter", I'm wondering if I should still use the Micro Sol under the decals. With the gloss finish on the model, I'm cautiously optimistic that the Solvaset won't discolor the finish or paint underneath. I use Tamiya acrylics almost exclusively. Any thoughts \ comment? Thanks. I'm getting back into this hobby after a "brief" fifty-year hiatus.

I stay away from Microsol or the like. Sometimes in extreme situations, but it has no place for me in the normal scheme of things. I make the surface as smooth as possible, with Future.

Then i use lots of clean water, get the decal down and wick off excesss water. Maybe a little Set, just to displace the water under the decal. Like Wing Nut said so many years ago, little to no Micro product can be best.