SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

DML Beute T34 Complete 12-02-2012

15937 views
116 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
DML Beute T34 Complete 12-02-2012
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, October 21, 2012 4:52 PM

After carrying out the usual bench-clearing and cleaning ritual when a previous project is finished, the next victim was selected out of the stash and work began. This particular project is going to be relatively straightforward and I chose it mainly because I want to do some experimenting with white wash techniques and a Beute T-34 provides the perfect opportunity for it...that and the fact that it's coming up on winter by the calendar so timing also matches.

This kit has the photographic instructions that show the actual model already painted and build in different stages so it's essential to pay extra attention to the steps as parts tend to magically appear in position and can be missed if not careful. I started with Step 1 which calls for the assembly of the road wheels, drive wheels, and tensioning idlers. Each of these parts has multiple nodes and sprue connection points as well as mold seams present so there was substantial cleanup work involved in terms of careful trimming and sanding before they were all done.

Step 2 begins work on the lower hull and installs the suspension towers as well as a couple of parts for the drive housings. It's important that these all sit at the right height and are level with each other since the suspension swing arms install into them in the next step.

Step 3 adds the swing arms to both sides and also installs the idler arms and the bases for the drive wheels. The MK set includes some adapters that allow the drive wheels to remain rotatable so I added those first before installing the bases and wheels into position. The MK set also includes little shims that are added to the idler arms to provide some tension so they will stay in place unaided and allow the idler wheels to be adjusted for track sag later on. This is a nice touch and the shims were just a shade too tight so I carefully sanded them down after they were glued to the arm mounts until I could move the arms without too much force while still having enough friction to remain in place and hold their position. 

That brought me to Step 4 which adds the hull underside details and the rear hull curved plate. As is common with DML instructions, there's an error in the tow point parts, they are reversed in terms of the part numbers and the sides they install to. Some finger pressure was needed to close up small gaps with the drive mounts but nothing major.

Steps 5 and 6 call for the installation of the wheels and tracks and that of course will come much later so they were skipped for now. Up next will begin work on the upper hull.

  • Member since
    August 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Posted by Rambo on Sunday, October 21, 2012 5:33 PM

off to a good start! when i first seen T34 I got kinda sad not a fan of Soviet armor but a captured T34 in German markings that sounds very interesting to me lol also is the suspension movable?

Clint

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, October 21, 2012 6:49 PM

Thanks Clint! The suspension is not workable as the springs are molded in place on the towers, so no possibility of posing the wheels without some surgery/modification unfortunately.

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: beacon falls , Ct.
Posted by treadwell on Sunday, October 21, 2012 7:03 PM

Hi Bill Smile

Off and running !

I know you only build German (or captured),  but I am on the other side of the fence. I would love for you to let the origin of this beautiful piece of Russian armor to shine through... even though white wash can't shine  LOL

Quantity has it's own quality 

balkenkreuz or not, yer pal,

treadCool

   

 

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: ohio
Posted by vonryan on Sunday, October 21, 2012 7:46 PM

OK Bill went to your site and looked AGAINGeeked and to my surprise not one allied vehicle?Hmm captured or not. so have you built all the German stuff out there now.??? LOLStick out tongue great stuff as alwaysYes

Clay

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, October 21, 2012 9:20 PM

Tread

, it's no surprise to me where your loyalty would lie when it comes to a T-34! Wink Glad to have you follow along.

Clint

Just to prove that, yes indeed, I have built Allied armor in the past, here you go...granted this one was from several years ago but there was in fact a period where I did build both sides before ultimately choosing to specialize. I have a very long way to go to build all the German stuff out there as evidenced by the 69 unbuilt kits sitting in the stash that are not duplicates of stuff already built. Smile

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: beacon falls , Ct.
Posted by treadwell on Sunday, October 21, 2012 10:02 PM

And you also did a Char B1 bis if I remember correctly !

YesBig Smile

   

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Sunday, October 21, 2012 10:41 PM

Glad to see you didn't take too much time off Bill.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Monday, October 22, 2012 7:10 AM

Bill - Wow...off to another start....interesting subject.....winter...in Texas...that's not a real winter.

OMG....a Bill built vehicle painted in OD....Holy Excrement.......

It is hard sometimes for some modelers to understand how someone like you or I could be so specialized. Everyone has a different spot.....we have found ours!!

Here in the bunker observing you covering fire

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, October 22, 2012 11:09 AM

Tread

yep did a Char B1 bis as well as a KV-1 (not captured). I still have a KV-2 in the stash as well as the last non-Axis hold-out kit. Smile

Eric

Got to keep the bench busy...since I only work one project at a time, as soon as one build completes the next one steps up to the plate as a matter of routine...barring any unforseen interruptions of course!

Mike

Technically it will be Russian Green and not OD but it's close enough and definitely not Panzer Gray! Stick out tongue Specialization happened for me as a matter of having to choose where to focus attention and funding on reference materials as well as available kits...with the explosion of offerings by all the different manufacturers, there's just too much to keep up with on both sides of the fence so something had to give! Propeller  Glad to have you along for the ride as always.
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Monday, October 22, 2012 4:04 PM

wbill76

Tread

, it's no surprise to me where your loyalty would lie when it comes to a T-34! WinkGlad to have you follow along.

Clint

Just to prove that, yes indeed, I have built Allied armor in the past, here you go...granted this one was from several years ago but there was in fact a period where I did build both sides before ultimately choosing to specialize. I have a very long way to go to build all the German stuff out there as evidenced by the 69 unbuilt kits sitting in the stash that are not duplicates of stuff already built. Smile

Bill - I actually was discussing this one for OD.....I am sure this jar is dried up by now!!

As for the specialization, I totally understand.....you know why I specialize in artillery Propeller

The main thing for those who are reading this....if you specialize or run the field....the most important thing is have as much fun as Bill and I.  Wink

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Tuesday, October 23, 2012 8:06 AM

I am sure this jar is dried up by now!!

I think it was sold on EBay...

"A one of a kind item that was actually used by Bill Plunk"

 

Looki'g good there Bill.

Marc  

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, October 23, 2012 10:59 AM

Mike

Makes sense now and yes indeed I do know why you build artillery...something about the 'big bang' effect! Wink

Marc

Big Smile Too funny! I checked my records and that M10 build was finished in 2005 but sadly no records exist on the fate of the OD bottle...rumor has it that it was used on an M8 build before vanishing into the fog of history but those same rumors also mention a Mayan-ET Connection so it's doubtful in terms of authenticity. Wink
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, October 28, 2012 7:17 PM

The latest round of effort focused on the hull and Step 7 deals specifically with the upper hull and the engine deck details. The option is provided to use either PE for the main intake screen or a part with the screen molded on and I opted for the PE. The upside to the PE is that it's much better in the detail department obviously but the downside was that the kit had a gaping hole underneath it that needed to be filled. I blanked off the opening with sheet styrene and added some louver flaps to fill the space. On the real T-34 there were only 2 flaps but I needed to use 3 parts to get the right angle/depth look once the screen and cover are installed. I also removed all the unnecessary molded on detail from the hull sides at this stage and added the rear engine deck plate as called out in the instructions.

The instructions incorrectly direct you to install the PE screen from the underside of the cover when in fact it should fit flush on the top. I annealed the screen over a gas flame and used the underside to shape it into the correct curve, then glued it in the correct topside position with Gator Grip acrylic binder glue to ensure I got it lined up right. Then the four bracing straps were added using small amounts of CA gel to complete things.

Step 8 deals with the hull glacis plate and adds the hull MG mount and driver's hatch along with the front tow points. I left the locking pins off the tow points for now as I want to explore some options in terms of installing the tow cables later on.

Step 9 is a big step as it joins the upper and lower hulls together and also adds the glacis plate. I joined the hull halves together first and then installed the glacis. I also cheated a bit and added the curved bow cover from Step 12 in the form of part C3 to make sure everything worked correctly. I also noticed at this point that I had overlooked the bottom plate that mates up with C3 that was supposed to be installed in Step 5.

The fit between the glacis and the upper hull was mostly good but some putty was needed at the top join. I also added some flame-cut texture to the sides of the glacis plate with the tip of a #11 blade and used putty for the weld seams that are supposed to be there as well.

Step 10 returns to the rear hull and adds the small access hatch and the exhausts along with some other small details. Fit issues here with the lower curved plate required some putty attention as well.

Step 11 adds the storage boxes and radio antenna pot to the right side. These are tricky to place correctly as no guides are provided and only the photos in the paint/finish guide show them post-installation. Spare tracks were left off for now as they will be painted and detailed later. Once the boxes were in place, the rear box was used to ensure symmetry on the opposite side and I also assembled and installed the jerry can rack from Step 12 since their placement is linked. A couple of jerry cans were used from the spares bin and some judicious thinning was needed on the racks before the two cans would fit correctly.

Last but not least, Step 11 also adds the rear Notek convoy light. I used 0.5mm diameter solder to wire up the conduit for the Notek light and some 'fingers' of left over PE from an Eduard fret for the brackets.

Still more work to do with the exterior in terms of the tool brackets and remaining front hull details before starting in on the turret.

  • Member since
    October 2009
Posted by PANZERWAFFE on Monday, October 29, 2012 11:06 AM

Nice progress on this one.  Good job on the lovers, great improvement over an empty hole.  Stowage box alignment looks good from here and I like the added wiring for the light.

What were all the modifications that the Germans added?  The apparent things I see are the stowage boxes, notec, and the commanders cupola ring.  Was there anything else?

Rob

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: S.W. Missouri
Posted by Pvt Mutt on Monday, October 29, 2012 11:27 AM

That's out of step for you Tex,surprised me.Confused

Clean work even at that,proud of you matey.

Tony lee

Shoot Low Boys They're Ridin Ponys

  • Member since
    August 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Posted by Rambo on Monday, October 29, 2012 2:42 PM

Looking good so far Bill I like the idea about putting the slats behind the PE that adds a lot more detail to her

Clint

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, October 29, 2012 4:02 PM

Rob

Thanks for the comments! The Germans made lots of modifications to captured T-34s depending on when they were captured and how long they had them for. This particular T-34 is a model 1940/41 and wasn't too extensively modified before being sent back into service and most likely received the modifications in the field vs. being sent back to German for re-manufacturing as some were later on. It basically received an extra stowage box on the front right side, German-style jack, tools, and holders on the left side, and of course the commander's cupola and the Notek gear front and rear.

Tony

Have to do something a little different every now and then just to kep things interesting! Glad to have you along.

BeerRambo

Thanks for the comments as well! That hole was just too gaping to be left alone so had to do something about it and the slats were a much simpler solution vs. trying to fill the engine compartment with 'stuff' to fill the void for sure. Wink
  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Schroon Lake, NY
Posted by SMJmodeler on Thursday, November 1, 2012 9:40 AM

Bill:  I'd say you're REALLY pushing your "German Only" envelope a bit on this one!Wink  Nice selection.Yes  I'll be watching how you do that whitewash..should be fun!

Off Topic, sorry ...but I have a quick question on your mud technique.  I notice that you don't using a bonding agent (thinned white glue is what I would expect)  when you slop on the mud to the tracks and wheels.  Why is that? I'm trying your technique tonight and I'm afraid when it dries I'll have a nice powder finish that will rub off...or blow-off when I use canned-air dust spray after it's been on the shelf a while...You can sent me a PM if you'd prefer not to discuss this on this thread.  Thanks.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Thursday, November 1, 2012 9:47 AM

Thanks Steve!

I don't use a bonding agent when doing my weathering because I actually want to be able to remove the excess pigment as part of the process and leave just a residue behind to achieve the desired result. If you want to show a caked-on/built-up type of accumulation, then you would definitely need to add something to achieve that. As for the pigments remaining on afterwards, I've found that the use of the water carrier over the Lusterless Flat coat provides enough of a 'fix' that the pigments will remain on over time and that some pigments in the Mig range have more of a 'stain' quality than others in that regard. I store my completed models inside an enclosed case so don't need to worry about dusting them. I would be hesitant to use canned-air spray for dusting though as I have used that to help remove the excess pigment on rare occasions, so repeated exposures might cause the pigments to lessen or disappear over time. You may want to consider using something like AK Interactive's pigment fixer or Mig's pigment fixer if you truly want them to be permanent. HTH! Beer

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Schroon Lake, NY
Posted by SMJmodeler on Thursday, November 1, 2012 10:36 AM

Bill:  I plan to build up the effect.  I'll be using your method to achieve what you call a "residue effect" on the tracks and wheels and up the lower part of the hull...it sounds like it'll hold fine...good to hear!  Then I will darken the mix a little and add a bit of thinned white glue and a pinch of future to get a "moistened" look.  I'll  be gunking up the tracks some more and add it to areas where mud would accumulate.   Finally I want to add some small wet chunks, flung clods and sprayed mud.  I'll be flicking that off a toothbrush and/or blowing it on with the airbrush across a brush.  Ambitious effort...I want a dirty look but not too caked on...I hope it turns out OK.  Thanks for the help.

Oh yeah, I have the AK products so I'll probably lock it all down with pigment fixer and/or thier new sand gravel fixer.

...OK, back to the T34.  What technique do you have in mind for the winter camo'?  The AK heavy chipping fluids works great, I'm a real fan...ever tried the stuff?

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Friday, November 2, 2012 7:26 PM

Steve,

The white wash will be a combination of different techniques. Since I work in enamels the usual hairspray or chipping approaches don't work so well but I've got a few tricks up my sleeve all the same. Stay tuned! Wink

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Friday, November 2, 2012 8:24 PM

Bill , looking forward to the next update .Yes

  • Member since
    October 2009
Posted by PANZERWAFFE on Friday, November 2, 2012 9:39 PM

Yes, I too will be looking forward at how you go about achieving the white wash Yes

Rob

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Saturday, November 3, 2012 6:15 AM

Good progress Bill,looks good so far

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Saturday, November 3, 2012 10:16 AM

Thanks guys, appreciate the comments and support. The white wash and painting stages are stilll a little ways off...have to finish up the lower hull first along with the turret and such but will get there eventually! Wink

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Saturday, November 3, 2012 8:20 PM

Sorry I took so long....I had a run in with that bit$h Sandy.....now that I am finally able to see your update.....looking very nice...hope everything is stable so I can drop in for the next update.

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Dublin Rep Of Ireland
Posted by terry35 on Saturday, November 3, 2012 8:49 PM
Hi, Bill, like every ody else I just want to wish you luck with this one. Should be an interesting contrast compared to your usual playground. I think your intention of a whitewash finish should be interesting.

Terry.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, November 4, 2012 9:37 AM

Mike

Glad to see you back online brother! Hope you can get back to 'normal' soon!

BeerTerry

I'm looking forward to playing with the whitewash having tried out various things on some previous build projects to lay the ground work. Always a pleasure to have you stop by!  
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, November 4, 2012 2:38 PM

Took full advantage of the expiration of DST and hte 'extra hour' that grants to get a lot done on the Beute T. Healthy dose of progress to report this time around so will dive right in. I finished up the remaining details from Step 12 that dealt with the hull side details. I replaced the molded-on clamps on the tools with Griffon PE clamps and left them so the tools could be removed. The jack is dry-fit only for the purposes of insuring the correct positioning of the tools since the jack handle needs a good bit of clearance against the hull to fit properly. I will also be adding a fire extinguisher from the spares bin and it too is dry-fit only and will be installed later after painting.

I also added the front headlights as called for in this step along with the front Notek light that is mentioned in Step 21. 0.5mm diameter solder was used to create the wiring conduit for all three lights for added detail.

That shifted attention over to the turret and Step 13 which assembles the exterior and interior portions of the gun as two sub-assemblies. The kit includes a nice turned aluminum barrel that fits perfectly and was secured in place with CA gel at its base. The fit of the recoil housing to the mantlet is not so great and had some gaps between it and the molded-on weld seam. To fill that delicate area and preserve the weld detail, I thinned some Squadron Green putty with Testors liquid glue and used a detail brush to flow the putty into the area and fill the gap. I used a #78 finger drill to drill out the coaxial MG since it's molded solid

Step 14 combines the two gun halves along with the traverse mounts and the fit here is very loose. Combined with the weight of the aluminum barrel, that means that the gun will always be pointed at its lowest elevation if not corrected. Rather than glue the mantlet into a fixed position, I opted to add some brass weights with CA gel in the spent shell basket that provided the perfect counter-balance and allows the gun to be positioned at any angle. More thinned green putty was needed to address small gaps at the base of the upper curved mantlet shield that is also added in this step.

Step 15 assembles the welded turret halves together along with the mantlet and while the fit was generally good, I wasn't happy with the join and weld seam detail at the front as the fit had some small gaps and the weld seam was not very prominent. To correct that, I sanded down the join and used flexible 0.6mm diameter styrene rod curved to shape and glued down with liquid glue to take the weld seam's place. This was allowed to dry thoroughly for a couple of hours before working on it further.

After the glue had set, I sanded the curved rods down flat to the desired height and then created the rough weld texture using the tip of a sharp #11 blade under a magnifier. While it doesn't show up so well here because of the white styrene, it passed what I call the 'finger' test for roughness and texture and will look the part once painted and weathered.

The next steps in the instructions branch depending on whether you fit the standard T-34 roof or go with the Pz III/IV style German cupola. I went with the cupola of course and that meant following Steps 18 and 19 instead of 16 and 17. I installed the turret roof plate into the turret first and then added all the various details second. Thinned green putty was used where needed to ensure solid joins at all the weld seams. I opted for the open shutters choices on the cupola and will add the clear blocks later as the cupola is not permanently installed yet to make it easier to paint and detail it later since it will get a base coat of panzer gray vs. russian green in the painting process.

A test fit with the rest of the hull to make sure everything plays nice together before painting.

I also noticed that the little sprue nubs on the cupola parts had just the right shape and curve to them to simulate light bulbs. So a pair of them were cut down and added to the front headlights for a little added detail.

Rest of the day will be spent beginning the MK track assembly and watching football to help pass the time doing a repetitive task. Paint is scheduled to fly next weekend if things hold.

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.