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Oil weathering question

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  • Member since
    February, 2015
Oil weathering question
Posted by acctingman on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 11:08 AM

I'm using Vallejo acrylics and I was wondering what the process is for using oils for weathering?

Do I seal the tank with something before I use oils and if so what type of sealer do I use?

What do I use with the oils to get them to "streak"? 

Is it "ok" to use pigments after you streak with oils or would that be kind of a redundant process?

What exactly is white spirits? What's the US equivilant?

Thank you for any insight you can help this noobie with! Wink

  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Northern New Jersey
Posted by Tojo72 on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 11:15 AM

Vallejo will stand up to the oils as it is acrylic.

To obtain streaking,after applying a small amount to the area,using a spirits dampened brush,you must stump it or drag it down lightly until you have that streaked look.If your not happy,just clean it off and do it again.I would seal the oils with acrylic clear before doing pigments.

Rather then reading,try youtube,should be lotsa demos to see,easier to see then have it explained.

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 11:27 AM

You don't need to protect the acrylic paint, but you might want to seal the decals. I also prefer to add oils to a gloss finish.

White spirits is the UK name for mineral spirits.

Yes, it is ok to use pigments, but only after you final clear coat.

 ''I am a Norfolk man, and I glory in being so''

  

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/32nd Ju 87G-2

  • Member since
    February, 2015
Posted by acctingman on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 11:32 AM

Thank you!

  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Northern New Jersey
Posted by Tojo72 on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 11:36 AM

Bish

You don't need to protect the acrylic paint, but you might want to seal the decals. I also prefer to add oils to a gloss finish.

White spirits is the UK name for mineral spirits.

Yes, it is ok to use pigments, but only after you final clear coat.

 

Bish,I find that the streaking doesnt stick well on gloss,no problems for you ?

Glossy for pinwash for sure though.

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 11:59 AM

Tojo72
 
Bish

You don't need to protect the acrylic paint, but you might want to seal the decals. I also prefer to add oils to a gloss finish.

White spirits is the UK name for mineral spirits.

Yes, it is ok to use pigments, but only after you final clear coat.

 

 

 

Bish,I find that the streaking doesnt stick well on gloss,no problems for you ?

Glossy for pinwash for sure though.

 

For streak effects i use the AK streaking products, fo the look i want, the oils work fine on gloss for me. Might vary depending on what you use for the gloss.

 ''I am a Norfolk man, and I glory in being so''

  

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/32nd Ju 87G-2

  • Member since
    February, 2015
Posted by acctingman on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 12:34 PM

Still being a totally new to model kit building I find myself overwhelmed with all the techniques out there. Washes, pin washes, filters, dot filters, etc...

I'm guessing everytime you put on oils you have to seal your model before you apply another oil based weathering technique?

Gloss coats are used I assume each time, then when you're finally done to remove that glossy look one uses a matt coat to take off that shine?

Thank you

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 12:50 PM

Ye, it can get a bit daunting. Somtimes it seems people are useing differant terms for the same thing.

I have tried to reduce the amount of clear coats i use, i have it down to 2.

My approach is:

paint

decals

dry brush

clear gloss

dot filter

pin wash

streak effects

chipping if needed

cleat Matt

pigments

 ''I am a Norfolk man, and I glory in being so''

  

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/32nd Ju 87G-2

  • Member since
    February, 2015
Posted by acctingman on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 1:27 PM

Thanks Bish

 

One last question before I run off to Michaels here.....what should I be buying to "thin" the oil paint? Mineral Spirits? Turpenoid? Is there a less cheaper alternative? (tight budget)

 

Thanks again for all the knowledge

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 1:52 PM

I use plain old DIY store white spirits. A lot of people use odourless products but i think they are more expensive. I have heard a lt of people mention the brand Monor Lisa, but i don't think we can get that here.

Enamel thinner work as well, but that will be more expensive.

 ''I am a Norfolk man, and I glory in being so''

  

On the bench: Hasegawa 1/32nd Ju 87G-2

  • Member since
    February, 2015
Posted by acctingman on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 1:55 PM

Bish

Thank you! There is a Lowes right next to Michales so I'm covered.

I appreciate your quick responses!!

  • Member since
    May, 2016
Posted by jacobrivers on Thursday, August 17, 2017 8:06 PM

acctingman

Thank you! There is a Lowes right next to Michales so I'm covered. 

Good man. Yeah, an alarming amount of my "modeling" supplies are in fact from Lowe's/ Home Depot. A paltry bottle of lacquer thinner in the "hobby" section costs probably 10x by volume as a quart-size can of lacquer thinner at Home Depot...!


Almost anything written above this line is subject to every sort of inaccuracy.

 

  • Member since
    January, 2010
Posted by CrashTestDummy on Saturday, August 26, 2017 7:33 PM
Start small, and work your way up. Remember, they all started pretty clean and monochromatic. The dirt and grime accumulated over time, depending on how much the crew could clean along the way. Less is definitely more here. Regards, Gene Beaird, Pearland, Texas

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